Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-17-2018, 04:19 PM   #1
Larry1013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Tallassee, AL
Posts: 190
Awning lower mount loose

Let me start off with the year and model of the 5th wheel travel trailer. It is a 2005 Outback. Over all the trailer is in decent condition with no obvious signs of water leaks, rot or much exterior de-lamination.

My problem is the lower awning mounts are loose (see photos). I did lower one mount about a year ago but it is loose now.

I am looking for an effect method to repair that is not just a quick fix. As with most awnings, the lower arm mount on each end is held on with 2 each #14x2" sheet metal screws. Appears the wood the screws are screwed into is possibly rotted some over the years once they became loose. I am considering doing one of the following as the repair. If anyone has ever repaired theirs, feel free to give ideas or reasons the method will not work or last.

#1 - Drill out the current holes and plug with dowel pins coated with wood glue. I have some 7/16" fluted dowel pins but will need to use one and half to fill the hole. After a few days to dry, drill a pilot hole and re-attach the lower mount with the #14x2" screws or 5/16"-18 x 3" hanger bolts. Problems, unsure how solid the wood is around the screw holes and will the 7/16" dowel pins be large enough.

#2 - Scab on a piece of pressure treated wood under the floor. Use 6 or more wood screws drilled up and into the floor and wall frame where current screws are located. Problem, how long can the scab screws be with the scab wood being approx 1.25" thick? Is 6 screws enough?

#3 - I have some 1/4" steel I can cut into a piece 2" x 10" or 12" for each end. Drill and tap two 1/4"x28 unc holes for the lower mount. Drill 2 holes on each end of the steel for 4 each #14x2" in the same plane/line as the previous lower mount holes. No real problems except the look of the steel cut with oxy-acetlyene torch. The steel will be cleaned and painted with white epoxy appliance paint.

Thoughts? Idea? Suggestions? Method you have used or would use?

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 1.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	70.2 KB
ID:	18950   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 2.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	69.2 KB
ID:	18951   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 3.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	63.7 KB
ID:	18952   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 4.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	308.3 KB
ID:	18953  
__________________

__________________
Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat CrewCab Long Bed 6.7L
2005 Keystone Outback Sydney 30FRKS
Larry1013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 07:16 PM   #2
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 8,010
I would glue in plugs. Donít drill a pilot hole, just re use the current screws as they will expand and grab the wood thatís there. Once you put a screw in, take it back out. Fill the hole with silicone and put it back in.
__________________

__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:52 AM   #3
flybouy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 1,270
^^^ What Chuck said.
__________________
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT SCAB long bed 4X4 6.4 Turbo Deisel
flybouy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2018, 09:07 AM   #4
Larry1013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Tallassee, AL
Posts: 190
As it turns out, the travel trailer frame is made of aluminum and the mounting screws are screwed into the aluminum.

So, will be going with option 3 at this time. I have found some 3/16" x 1.5" x 10" bar stock steel. I will drill and tap the bar stock for two 1/4-28 x 1" allen head bolts so they can be tack welded to the bar stock. After painting with some appliance white epoxy paint, will attach to aluminum frame with 6 #12 sheet metal screws.

Using #12 sheet metal screws will allow going to #14 sheet metal screws if the mounts work loose again.
__________________
Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat CrewCab Long Bed 6.7L
2005 Keystone Outback Sydney 30FRKS
Larry1013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 11:48 AM   #5
Larry1013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Tallassee, AL
Posts: 190
Finished the lower mounts today. Had to go with a bar. Drilled and taped the steel bar stock for the studs. Spot welded the studs to the bar on the back side. The studs used to attach the lower mount to the bar. Should hold up good for a few years or more.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 1.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	64.6 KB
ID:	19103   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 2.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	65.5 KB
ID:	19104   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo 3.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	66.5 KB
ID:	19105  
__________________
Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat CrewCab Long Bed 6.7L
2005 Keystone Outback Sydney 30FRKS
Larry1013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
awning

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RVģ is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.