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Old 07-19-2019, 02:00 PM   #1
Happycampers49
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2010 Laredo 24.5rl no A/C information to help repair man

Hi -we are newbies and bought a used 2010 Laredo (24.5 rl) with absolutely no diagrams or owners manual to go by. We have a new dilemma after finally finding the water pump with all of your help! (we fixed it on our own) *THANKS!. We had a trailer repair guy out and he was looking into why we have no A/C- He says the A/C panel is fine but someone (?) had worked on this unit before, and the grey wiring is missing! He desperately needs to see what the correct wiring looks like in this model. He says he is going to meet w/ a Keystone rep tomorrow and find out if he can get a (don't laugh!) an owners Manual. I have been told by a senior poster here that you cannot get a manual. Does anyone out there have a correct diagram of the A/C wiring?. P.s. Never trust someone who tells you everything works FINE when you buy a 5th wheel from a private party! Feel like a fool now. Too bad you can't go on a handshake anymore. with our luck the stupid thing wont even blow hot air! maybe its best to just get a new one? its the original I am sure from 2010-don't ask me what kind I'm too old to climb on the roof to look
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Old 07-19-2019, 02:18 PM   #2
sourdough
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What kind of thermostat is inside? Coleman, Dometic or ?? If it's a 2010 and has one AC and it is OEM I would say it's probably a 13.5k unit. If it is the OE it is 9 years old. Others will disagree but before I spent much money on the old unit I would put a new one in. New ones can be a bit pricey but not bad; 700-900 maybe installed. If you replace it I would go with a 15k unit for sure.

If you can find the model of the thermostat it would at least give us an idea what brand of AC you have (I hope). Did the repair guy not look at it? He should be able to tell you.
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Old 07-19-2019, 03:36 PM   #3
travelin texans
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The owners manual won't be of help much as it's very generic, basically the same one for all Keystone models, WILL NOT have electrical, plumbing or TV cable diagrams & if it did they would be generic also.
You'd be better off looking up your model of AC online to find a troubleshooting guide.
Not sure what "gray wiring" he's looking for, but I'd think with a VOM he should be able to trace out whatever he needs.
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:25 PM   #4
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Even a new A/C won't work if he can't find power for it. He should be able to get it running (if it works) with a heavy extension cord to a good power source like the 20 amp outlet on the pedestal. There should be 14-2 Romex wire running from the circuit breaker marked A/C directly to the unit and regardless of who worked on it before it should be easy to verify if there is power. The old A/C may be ten years old but may only have a few hours run time on it. The tech can get all specs and wiring diagrams for the A/C online from it's manufacturer with no need to go on the roof. The wiring is done from the inside and make and model can be obtained there also. Before replacing the unit I would consider replacing the tech. JM2¢, Hank
I agree ... if it must be replaced go with the 15k.
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:33 PM   #5
sourdough
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Originally Posted by hankpage View Post
Even a new A/C won't work if he can't find power for it. He should be able to get it running (if it works) with a heavy extension cord to a good power source like the 20 amp outlet on the pedestal. There should be 14-2 Romex wire running from the circuit breaker marked A/C directly to the unit and regardless of who worked on it before it should be easy to verify if there is power. The old A/C may be ten years old but may only have a few hours run time on it. The tech can get all specs and wiring diagrams for the A/C online from it's manufacturer with no need to go on the roof. The wiring is done from the inside and make and model can be obtained there also. Before replacing the unit I would consider replacing the tech. JM2¢, Hank
I agree ... if it must be replaced go with the 15k.

Yep! I made the assumption power was present - thinking the "tech" would have assured that, but then......maybe the gray wire is one of the power conductors?? I'm voting for "replacing the tech" as well.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Yep! I made the assumption power was present - thinking the "tech" would have assured that, but then......maybe the gray wire is one of the power conductors?? I'm voting for "replacing the tech" as well.


Yes, I’d replace the old AC and the tech as well. See if one can be found that is authorized by Dometic. Call them as their CS is good.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:27 PM   #7
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As generic as RV air conditioner units and control heads are the RV tech needs replacing. He should already know what he’s looking for and have access to service manuals ....

Anyone can easily locate this info via google
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:41 PM   #8
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This should be more then enough for any RV tech to work with.

I’d be checking the J box connections located up inside the air distribution duct first
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:51 AM   #9
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We're dealing with the "2010 technology" on this air conditioning system. Back then, most RV's didn't even have digital thermostats and ALL of them in the price range of the OP's Laredo had "conventional A/C systems" with roof ducting distribution....

There were no "in-command" or remote control interface, or even any oddball "KeyTV" interface issues....

It's a "basic, wired thermostat" and a "self contained A/C system"....

It's NOT rocket science and any RV service guy that says he doesn't understand the system either is so new he's never worked on an A/C system or he's so incompetent he shouldn't be working an an A/C system......

At best, it's the same as every RV A/C system from 1990 to around 2015. At worst, if he can't understand a basic RV A/C system, he shouldn't be climbing on the roof !!!!!
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:55 AM   #10
Firehawkdoug
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Laredo 5th wheel fresh water tank issues

2010 Laredo 319rl. I filled the fresh water tank and upon being full, the topside of the water bladder expanded and raised the living room floor. I did not get any indicators that the tank was full. Usually the water comes out the overflow next to the filling location. Did the tank snap my joists or is the tank bad. Any suggests??
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