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Old 07-15-2019, 05:57 AM   #1
kellerbees
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Anode issue

Doing some general maintenance on my 2004 Cougar. Trying to replace the Anode electrode. Not having any success breaking loose. Tried small breaker bar and no success. Worried about increasing length of bar. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:04 AM   #2
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When was the last time it was out? Any indications of Teflon tape or pipe dope?
If it's been a wile, it may be corroded in place. At this point try some penetrating oil.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:08 AM   #3
kellerbees
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Thanks tried a couple of penetrating oils. Just purchased the rig a few months ago don't know when it was last serviced.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:20 AM   #4
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From my experience if it has not been opened since 2007 it is filled with crud and will fail soon from corrosion. Put some muscle to it, worst thing is you will replace the 12 year old water heater.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:27 AM   #5
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I agree with Frank. The threads on the anode can get very rusty, even with teflon tape. I replaced the water heater in our last 5er...wasn't a bad job. All you can do is muscle it out and hope for the best. Or just use it as is until it doesn't work anymore and replace it then.

If you can't remove the anode and the heater does eventually fail you will want to drill a hole near the anode to drain the water before removing it from the trailer to avoid excess water inside when disconnecting.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:24 AM   #6
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I tried to get mine out with breaker bar, but was afraid of breaking the fitting lose from the tank. Then I tried an electric impact wrench. Worked like a charm!
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hblick48 View Post
I tried to get mine out with breaker bar, but was afraid of breaking the fitting lose from the tank. Then I tried an electric impact wrench. Worked like a charm!
That is a good suggestion!
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:42 PM   #8
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This might not be the right place for this but, I just bought a 2019 Cougar 29RKS and need to know what size the head is on the plug/anode rod. Previous trailer had tankless water heater so I'm out on practice on emptying a water heater.
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:52 PM   #9
kellerbees
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Anode removal

Inch and a sixteenth worked for me.
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:06 PM   #10
chuckster57
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Anode issue

Plug is 15/16” and some are 7/8”
anode rod is 1 1/16”
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:44 PM   #11
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If you don't have a socket that fits, rather than buy one, you can use a 12" crescent wrench and a 8 or 10 inch crescent. Just adjust the 12" crescent to fit the flats on the anode, use the smaller wrench to grip the shaft of the large wrench and twist to loosen. I stopped carrying a socket I never use several years ago and now, always use two crescents to remove the anode.

Don't forget to apply Teflon tape or plumber's putty to the threads on reassembly, otherwise it may not come out at the end of the season.... BTDT...
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Old 08-04-2019, 10:19 AM   #12
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Thanks for the help guys, I had already tried the biggest socket I had, 15/16, and wouldn't fit, went and bought 1" and wouldn't fit either. I have to get it out.
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Old 08-04-2019, 01:33 PM   #13
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Probably 1 1/16. That is what I use
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:38 PM   #14
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Here is a photo of what I described previously, using two crescent wrenches to remove the anode rod.
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Old 08-07-2019, 07:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Here is a photo of what I described previously, using two crescent wrenches to remove the anode rod.


BTDT a few time under the hood of a car.
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
If you don't have a socket that fits, rather than buy one, you can use a 12" crescent wrench and a 8 or 10 inch crescent. Just adjust the 12" crescent to fit the flats on the anode, use the smaller wrench to grip the shaft of the large wrench and twist to loosen. I stopped carrying a socket I never use several years ago and now, always use two crescents to remove the anode.

Don't forget to apply Teflon tape or plumber's putty to the threads on reassembly, otherwise it may not come out at the end of the season.... BTDT...
I started getting the trailer ready to winterize today and took a couple of photos of how I use two crescent wrenches to remove the anode. The photos should be self explanatory.
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:19 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by fireems151 View Post
Thanks for the help guys, I had already tried the biggest socket I had, 15/16, and wouldn't fit, went and bought 1" and wouldn't fit either. I have to get it out.
The anode rod socket size is 1 1/16" - instead of buying different size sockets until you hit on the right one - why not measure the plug? Take the guess work out of it?
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:38 AM   #18
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Anode Rod when winterizing

When I winterize, I remove the good anode rod.
I have an old one that wore out. I cut off what was left of the rod.
With the good rod out, I put plumbers tape on the old one and hand tighten it in place.
And agree with the 1 1/16"
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Old 09-29-2019, 06:05 AM   #19
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When I winterize, I remove the good anode rod.
I have an old one that wore out. I cut off what was left of the rod.
With the good rod out, I put plumbers tape on the old one and hand tighten it in place.
And agree with the 1 1/16"
For less than $10 replacement costs I replace mine. After years of boating and replacing the zinc plates (anodes) on the stabilizers, lower units/rudders I found that for the cost is was worth replacing and starting out fresh each year. The rational is that once they start to do their jobs the time left on them is not linear, in other words if the anode is 1/2 gone it will still be good for the time it took to get 1/2 used. This is especially true of rod type anodes. 1/2 the diameter of a new anode is a LOT less surface area than 1/2 of a new rod. The formula to calculate is "formula for the surface area of a cylinder is 2 π r2 + 2 π r h" To find the surface area of a cylinder add the surface area of each end plus the surface area of the side. Each end is a circle so the surface area of each end is π * r2, where r is the radius of the end. There are two ends so their combined surface area is 2 π * r2. The surface area of the side is the circumference times the height or 2 π * r * h, where r is the radius and h is the height of the side.
Since there is only one end of the cylinder is exposed, replace the constant 2 with a 1.

I know that's a lengthy explanation but the math doesn't lie. To me, not spending <$10 to protect a several hundred $ water heater isn't cost effective. I replace it at the beginning of the year and if the one I remove doesn't look to bad I'll spray some diluted bleach water on it (to prevent mold) and place it in a zip lock bag before storing it away as a spare. YMMV
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