Water Damage In Front Storage

dmcc625 · 03-03-2019, 10:47 AM

I apparently had a leak in my wet Bay Area that seeped in to my flooring and saturated the particle board and it basically fell apart. I have cut up the vinyl flooring to inspect and I’m posting pictures. Does any one have any advice on undertaking replacement of the subfloor in this area? This is only in front fifth wheel storage area. I am fairly handy, but would like to see pics of other repairs or any advice from someone that has repaired this area. I have been able to diagnose and repair LOTS of issues by using this forum.

Thanks

dmcc625 · 03-03-2019, 11:55 AM

Any help or guidance I can get from this forum would be greatly appreciated.

Tbos · 03-04-2019, 04:35 AM

Did you identify and stop the leak? If so I’d cut out the old wood and put in new. While there take out any wet insulation too and replace it. Working in tight places is not fun. Be careful and take your time, you’ll do fine.

dmcc625 · 03-04-2019, 04:57 AM

Yes leak has been stopped. You are correct as the insulation is soaked as well. Thanks for your response Tbos! I’m actually gonna attempt to replace the complete piece of osb since it looks like it was installed in one piece. I do think I will have to replace it in 2-3 sections though. This should allow me to fit new plywood thru doors. If any more advice please let me know. Thank you

Laredo Tugger · 03-04-2019, 06:16 AM

Is the complete compartment OSB board affected or just the area shown in your photos? I would guess the original OSB was installed as one sheet for shear value to strengthen the trailer floor. If damage is isolated I would leave it in place.
If only that small area of original floor is damaged, I would consider drying out the moisture from the leak, replace insulation and put another sheet (one piece) of plywood over the whole surface (half inch maybe) with an adhesive and using proper screws (length and placement). There are attractive options for the finish flooring and some even come in one foot squares with peel and stick adhesive already applied and are easy to cut with a utility knife.
RMc

dmcc625 · 03-04-2019, 07:29 AM

It actually extends over almost the whole osb board. If I try to piece, would not have much good wood to attach to as almost the complete board is mushy. I believe I need to replace the complete board or as much as is possible. The water damage actually soaked entire OSB board. I can handle the finish floor, just need advice on replacement of subfloor. Thanks for all the responses and advice. Keep the tips coming.

**JRTJH** · 03-04-2019, 08:10 AM

The "problem to overcome" is the size of the replacement sheeting that you can fit through the exterior doors. It's a matter of "CAREFULLY" cutting the old floor away from the structure without damaging the structure, then using furring strips to attach the new floor to the old floor components and then covering that with some type of floor covering.

If it were me, I'd use a quality construction adhesive on the furring strips, screw them to the underside of the existing floor, overlap with the widest possible "new OSB" that will fit through the compartment door and then another furring strip to the underside of the "raw edge" and move on to the next section. Once down and complete, let it sit until the adhesive dries, then install the new floor covering.

Since there's always a possibility for the new floor to get wet, I'd consider spraying all of the new pieces with Thompsons Water Seal before installing them. It may not make the entire structure "water proof" but it will, at least make the new parts "water resistant".....

It's not a difficult job to do, just a "frustrating one" because of all the "tight spaces" you'll need to get into, both with the bulky floor parts, but also your own "bulky butt"...

Laredo Tugger · 03-04-2019, 08:55 AM

That's good advice John. I had to read your post a few times to get a visual of what you described. Only had to read "bulky butt" once. I admit I'm a member of that union.

RMc

dmcc625 · 03-04-2019, 09:32 AM

Your advice has been great! However I have a little skinny behind

I’ll take all the advice I can get.
The structure that the osb is attached to is all metal and aluminum. Would it benefit to screw the “added” framing to the metal/aluminum framing. Is there a glue that works with metal and wood? I’ve used lots of glues for subfloors, etc but it always been wood to wood.

wiredgeorge · 03-04-2019, 10:06 AM

I believe you may have to measure the whole of the board area to be replaced and then cut it into pieces to get the boards into the pass through. I would get all the wet stuff and old OSB out and let the area thoroughly dry; perhaps even use a dehumidifier if you have one or can get ahold of one. Mold can be a pain otherwise. I would also NOT use OSB but would put new insulation in and then use a piece of wall paneling like you might see in a gas station bathroom. Set the panels in place and drill some holes through the panels and metal studs behind and use self tapping sheet metal screws to secure. You can buy some strips of trim and cover any seams but in the area you are repairing cosmetics are not likely that big a deal.

**JRTJH** · 03-04-2019, 10:25 AM

This is a "opinion" and I'm not attempting to criticize anyone else's "opinion"... Any time you're dealing with aluminum tubing, drilling a hole sets up a "weak spot". If you stress that hole by installing a screw (which applies pressure to the aluminum so it can stay in place and tight) then you set up a potential for stress cracking. When that type construction is "below the floor and out of sight" there's no way to inspect and repair any cracks in the aluminum tubing "until it fails and is noticeable above the floor".... That's not an ideal way to install items in a metal framed structure....

There's a "reason why" airplanes are built with rivets and not with screws.....

I would not want to go drilling holes in the aluminum structure and screwing anything to it and expect a 'long term satisfactory repair"....

When you think about it, the floor is not going to provide any structural rigidity to the trailer and it certainly isn't going to slide out of the compartment door when towing. There's no reason to secure it to the aluminum frame, it's not going anywhere, especially with cargo on top "holding it down".... I wouldn't suggest laying a "floating floor" but attaching the furring strips to existing floor and laying the new one "shiplap" fashion with construction adhesive and screws (wood to wood) will prevent any metal stress cracks from "overbuilding the structure" by screwing it to the metal framework.

If you look at the current threads, there are a couple in which "pulleys screwed to metal framework" have failed, been repaired with bigger screws and failed again.... Screwing moving parts to aluminum with "sheet metal screws" isn't a reliable repair.... Just my opinion, and since it's not my trailer or my work, treat it as what it is, someone else's suggestion.....

As for the "big butt" comment, anyone, even a "90 pound bag of bones" with a "petite posterior" grows a "big butt" when working inside the confines of an RV passthrough storage area.....

dmcc625 · 03-04-2019, 11:04 AM

Thank you guys for all the comments and advice. I’m using the camper this weekend and when I return I’m going to tear out the bad wood and attempt to use the furring strips to good wood and replace the flooring. It is 28 degrees here right now. I will try and document with pics and may ask for more advice. If any one has more advice please send it my way. Thanks again

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