Very little braking from my camper?

Campy · 03-18-2019, 01:40 PM

Trying to track down an brake issue I have had with my Cougar for awhile now and looking for help or insight. Could never get full braking power even when new, dealer said it will take time to "bed" in the shoes but the stopping power never did improve. Now I"m looking for a reason? At first we thought it was the built-in controller in the truck so I installed a Prodigy controller, slightly better. When applying full manual power to the brakes the rig will barely slow down. I'm thinking it's a wiring issue on the camper itself, appears to have 14g wiring for the brake wire. I have larger wire on my speakers!

Tbos · 03-18-2019, 02:29 PM

I’d think a very thorough inspection of each wheel and the brake assembly on it. Maybe you’ve had some leaking seals from day one. I’ve always been able to lock up the RV tires as a test. Hope you are able to get it resolved.

ADQ K9 · 03-18-2019, 02:48 PM

Ditto on what Tom said. If you can't lock them up, something is wrong.

**JRTJH** · 03-18-2019, 04:17 PM

I would urge you to not consider the wiring. EVERY trailer that Keystone produces uses essentially the SAME wiring, so if it was wiring, we'd all be having the same problems... We aren't and it's not the size of the wire. There may be a loose or disconnected wire somewhere, but the size is sufficient for our trailers, it is for yours too.

First, pull the hubs, inspect the brakes carefully. My guess is that someone, somewhere has used the EZ Lube system to inject some grease into the hubs, blown a seal and you'll find the brakes saturated with grease.

Let us know what you find when you do the visual inspection. Photos would be helpful.

gearhead · 03-18-2019, 04:53 PM

Try this first....drive around town using the brakes normally. Find a safe place to pull over. Check the temps of the outer edge of the drums with a infrared temp gun. You will at least discover if just one or two is working. From there I would check the wiring. I had the same problem and just replaced with 4 complete brake assembly with eTrailer.com parts. I used marine butt connectors heat shrink with heat shrink sleeves over that.

HitFactor · 03-18-2019, 05:08 PM

Take it to a mechanic. One you already have a relationship with is best.

Forget about the dealership, you know, the idiot that said the shoes have to bed.

Campy · 03-18-2019, 06:41 PM

Still checking but been through each wheel and no grease leaks on any. My trailer does have the EZ-lube axles but I refuse to use them, I pack the old fashion way,... by hand.

Javi · 03-18-2019, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campy

Still checking but been through each wheel and no grease leaks on any. My trailer does have the EZ-lube axles but I refuse to use them, I pack the old fashion way,... by hand.

I just have to ask... what are you considering FULL stopping power?

I test my Cougar 333MKS brakes when rolling at approximately 5 mph. I apply the paddle and if the rig stops, I'm good.

I want the trailer brakes to provide drag to assist with stopping, not to stop the complete rig.

HitFactor · 03-18-2019, 07:40 PM

Is that what the owners manual specifies for checking the trailer brakes? My manual is different from that, but there could be differences.

I would only recommend following the manual for testing.

This is a huge safety issue. If he was driving overweight this forum would come down on him like a ton of bricks. It's been going on since new, 5 seasons.

Guess what, without proper braking he is overweight.

New computer, wire gauge, grease contamination, no, no, and no. Quit guessing and driving unsafely.

Take it to a mechanic.

nellie1289 · 03-18-2019, 08:23 PM

So I find on my trailer that there is little stopping power when I first hook up but after towing around a while they work much better. Is this normal. I still think they are weak no matter how much I adjust the gain even to like 7-8. When I hook up my 8k lb cargo trailer they lock up instantly even at 3-4.

Tinman97423 · 03-25-2019, 09:53 AM

I have been researching that same breaking problem with my 2015 Ram 2500 with built in break control pulling my 2016 Cougar 303RLS with the 350 horse Cummings.
This thread is about RAM trucks so I don’t care if your Ford, GMC or Chevy trucks work or don’t work. THIS IS ABOUT RAM TRUCKS that have a problem

. First of all, I have not been able to find a Ram dealer who knows anything about the built-in break control. All they say is “If it does not show up on the computer there is nothing wrong.
I just came back from a 2400-mile trip and if it wasn’t for the diesel exhaust break, I don’t know what I would have done. Now what follows is what I am going to try first.
This is what I was told to do by a big trailer/RV repair near Palm Springs Cal. First. Using a small bottle jack, jack up just one tire at a time (DO NOT JACK UP THE TRAILER) till it can spin freely (put the jack so it will be between the u-bolts on just one tire at a time). Now with the one tire clear off the ground go and pull the emergency break cord switch (MUST HAVE TRAILER BATTERY HOOKED UP) also having the trailer plugged in to 120 supply would keep the battery charged up while you do this to all wheels with breaks one at a time. I was told to readjust breaks so that they would still spin just a little while you try to turn them using a lot of your body force to turn them. I was told you want the trailer to help stop the truck without just locking up the breaks and just skidding.
If all of the breaks on the trailer work that means nothing wrong with the trailer.
My second idea came from my own little brain. (no smart remarks needed). 😊 My truck has two trailer hook up plugs. One in the bed and one on the rear bumper. I’m thinking on connecting the trailer to one and a jumper from the other (break plug pin only) bringing the wire into the cab through the rear window and plugging it into a volt meter to see how much break voltage is getting to the trailer while on the road using the breaks. On the return drive I will switch the trailer plug and reinstall the jumper in the second plug to see if both truck plugs are getting voltage and how much.
Also, any one with the RAM diesel join the Cummings Diesel Forum. There is a lot of threads covering the break problem with many just adding a completely separate trailer break controller. Doing that will be my last resort. HOPE THIS WILL HELP and please let me know how it works out for you. I have not done any of this yet but will do this by the end of April…… Good Luck… Also, if you live in Southern Oregon send me a PM and we could help each other. I have indoor parking for up to a 60-foot trailer under 14 foot high. No rain problems….

**JRTJH** · 03-25-2019, 10:01 AM

Tinman,

One part of adjusting your brake controller in your RAM truck I didn't see addressed in your post. That is the "level adjustment". There are 3 "level adjustments" Light/Medium/Heavy. Many people consider that their adjustment consists of only the 10 numbers from 1-10 on the screen.

If you haven't set the "brake level adjustment" to medium or heavy, chances are you're only operating in the "bottom 1/3 of your controller capacity"....

I can't tell you how to access that feature in your brake controller adjustment software, but it's there and if you haven't addressed it, that may be your "only problem"....

If you've already done that, then disregard or maybe it'll help someone else. Good Luck with your problem.

Tinman97423 · 03-25-2019, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Tinman,

One part of adjusting your brake controller in your RAM truck I didn't see addressed in your post. That is the "level adjustment". There are 3 "level adjustments" Light/Medium/Heavy. Many people consider that their adjustment consists of only the 10 numbers from 1-10 on the screen.

If you haven't set the "brake level adjustment" to medium or heavy, chances are you're only operating in the "bottom 1/3 of your controller capacity"....

I can't tell you how to access that feature in your brake controller adjustment software, but it's there and if you haven't addressed it, that may be your "only problem"....

If you've already done that, then disregard or maybe it'll help someone else. Good Luck with your problem.

THANKS for the reply..... I did forget and I have it set for electric/heavy. Maybe I should try all? One just might work!!

**JRTJH** · 03-25-2019, 10:20 AM

The "cost to try" makes it worth the effort. It likely won't make a significant difference, but if you haven't tried everything, well.... You know how that goes... Good Luck !!!

roadglide · 03-18-2019, 08:39 PM

Mine came. From the dealer with wires rubbed through by the tire . I expect that caused the magnet on the left side to score the drum . I check my trailer brakes slightly down hill truck in natural and set at 7 when it stops 23000 lbs that's good for me .

RCW · 03-19-2019, 05:06 AM

The brakes do need to "bed in". All brakes have a break in period when installed before they become fully effective. This is even more of an issue on drum brakes. The other issue is that our trailers sit for long periods without the brakes being used. This allows rust to build up on the surfaces. So you way need to apply the brakes several times to clean them off.

To the original OP, the first thing I would do is pull the emergency break away cable out. This should apply the brakes hard enough that you will skid the trailer tires while pulling with your TV. This should isolate the problem between the Trailer and the TV

HitFactor · 03-19-2019, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCW

The brakes do need to "bed in". All brakes have a break in period when installed before they become fully effective.

That was five years ago, hardly relative in the context of this thread.

The dealer was deflecting responsiblity.

RCW · 03-19-2019, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HitFactor

That was five years ago, hardly relative in the context of this thread.

The dealer was deflecting responsiblity.

The original post states that he ask the dealer about it when he first got the trailer. How would it not be relative if the OP stated it in his first post to explain the situation? As I stated before there is a break in period for brakes and even more of one for drum brakes. Since neither one of us were apart of the OP's conversation with the dealer, I don't think we would be qualified to determine the intent of the partys involved.

HitFactor · 03-19-2019, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCW

The original post states that he ask the dealer about it when he first got the trailer. How would it not be relative if the OP stated it in his first post to explain the situation? As I stated before there is a break in period for brakes and even more of one for drum brakes. Since neither one of us were apart of the OP's conversation with the dealer, I don't think we would be qualified to determine the intent of the partys involved.

It's not relative. The dealer was shirking his responsibilities.

Are you saying that new brakes are unsafe as the new owner pulls off the lot? Do we have to wait for brakes to bed before they are safe? I doubt that's what you are saying.

German Shepherd Guy · 03-19-2019, 05:29 AM

I dunno guys but Campy says this has been a problem from day 1. Packs bearings the old fashioned way by hand and an inspection shows no grease. I agree with Hitfactor, this is now a job for a good mechanic as safety is involved. NOT the dealer who basically refused to admit a problem. I live very rural, far from RV guys but my local mechanic is really good and also knowledgeable about electric drum breaks. So I am guessing (of course we all know what assume stands for

) that Campy should be able to find someone close who can troubleshoot the brakes.

So why don't TT's come with disc brakes standard now? Not that there is an answer to this that doesn't come down to $, but after the initial change over it is hard to believe that cost would be much different.

Campy, good luck, I will be interested to hear the final resolution to this just for my own benefit if nothing else so please keep up the thread.
Oak.

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