Winterization

[Bob Landry]

I live in Central Texas, so freezing weather realy isn't much of an issue to me, however, I am curious about winterization. The holding tanks can be drained, the fresh water tank has a low point drain, there are low point drains for the hot and cold water lines, and the water heater can easily be drained. With all of that said, what is the purpose of loading the water system up with antifreeze? The only thing that appears to be left is the traps under the sinks. Just curious. it seems like an unnecessary expenditure to me, but then I don't have to deal with brutal cold weather either.

[JRTJH]

The water lines have many "nooks and crannies" that they travel through. Often there's a dip in the line that would hold water and could easily freeze, rupture and cause problems next spring. Also, there are places in the fresh water system where, by design limitations, water will pool in the system. By using antifreeze, you displace that standing water and prevent any ice related damage to the plumbing. The $6 for two gallons of antifreeze is a well spent investment vs the potential for multi-dollars in repair parts next spring.

When we lived in Alexandria, Louisiana (about the same climate as Austin) and thought "it's not cold enough to winterize" I wound up spending nearly $1000 for a new water pump, HWH, 2 of the 3 faucets, not to mention the frustration of removing the aluminum bottom of the trailer to get to the plumbing to replace cracked and leaking fittings on the water lines.

Antifreeze is a "sure bet" way to protect your RV from that kind of damage.

[Jim W]

I go one step further when we winterize the camper. I first drain the water heater and open all of the low point drains. I will than blow out the water using an air compressor set at 40PSI closing off the water tank bypass valve first. I will then open the faucets in the bathroom, shower and kitchen closing off the low point drains next. The faucets are shut off one at a time starting in the bathroom leaving the kitchen water faucet cold water line open. The air compressor is then shut off and the cold water faucet is closed last. I will then pump RV anti-freeze thru the system using the water pump to pump the anti-freeze to the various faucets. I will then pour a gallon of anti-freeze down each drain to the three hold tanks to protect the tank drain valves. I will also add a gallon of anti-freeze to the fresh water tank too.

To me the anti-freeze is cheaper than spending money in the spring to fix the failed parts do to freezing water damage.
Jim W.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I live in Central Texas, so freezing weather realy isn't much of an issue to me, however, I am curious about winterization. The holding tanks can be drained, the fresh water tank has a low point drain, there are low point drains for the hot and cold water lines, and the water heater can easily be drained. With all of that said, what is the purpose of loading the water system up with antifreeze? The only thing that appears to be left is the traps under the sinks. Just curious. it seems like an unnecessary expenditure to me, but then I don't have to deal with brutal cold weather either.

Here in Waco my FIL just drains his lines and tank then pours the pink stuff in the pee traps.. and has never had a problem in more than 30 years...

Me, I worked in the RV repair racket for 6 years when I was younger and I've seen the money folks have spent because they didn't at least blow the lines out... I don't think the little bit of effort it takes to winterize and flush the lines before use is worth the cost in dollars to fix it if it does freeze..

P.S. we camp at least one weekend a month even in the winter but I winterize everytime we put the trailer away... from November till the mesquite and pecan trees bloom...

[geo]

I can assure you that unless your fresh water drain is located in the center of the underbelly, it is only a drain. My fresh water drain is located right behind the front port (left) tire, not more than a foot from the side. The bottom of the tank is rounded, so when the tank "drains", it still has about 5 gallons of fluid when the fiver is level. To make the drain "low point", it takes a stack of three 2x8s to tilt the fiver. And, if you get inside the underbelly, you will probably learn that there is unknown sediment in the fresh water tank, probably construction sawdust. Be sure to sanitize your fresh water system every spring.

Ron