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Old 10-27-2009, 10:33 AM   #21
Flyguy
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When Keystone installs the AC units they seal the ducts with aluminum foil duct tape by covering all around the AC cavity and then cutting an X in the tape where the duct openings exit so that the ducts will be clear and open to the registers, they are supposed to push the tape down so it sticks and leaves the duct open, mine wasn't that way and one duct was blocked, I took down the air return cover so I could get to the ducts and fixed mine, if you want to do the same, here's a link that tells you how: http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Air%20Co...aintenance.pdf
it's something that you can check in a low airflow situation, and you don't have to take it all apart to see the ducts, I only took down the plastic trim and the metal trim plate.
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:23 AM   #22
roll300
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Hi all I just join the forum and we are camping in are new 2010 293SAB. It is 40 deg out side and we use a ele heater, but sounds like I need to check this. When I pick up the unit I didn't think much of the flex duck duck work. I think that they should have used insulated flex duck. It is used in homes and commercial setting everyday. The imbalance of air flow sound engineering issue with Keystone. Sounds like they need to use balance dampers in the sys to make the sys work more evenly. (Just my 2 cents worth)
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:11 AM   #23
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How odd, We just got rid of a sundance for a Cougar because it was a piece of crap.
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:03 PM   #24
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Cougar hvac issues

Has anyone had any luck with the heating issues in the Keystone Fifthwheels? The furnace in my fifth wheel is not usable if anyone else is staying in the trailer with us. Back bedroom is 20 degress plus warmer than the master. Pretty much all of the solutions mentioned (i.e. inline booster and dampering) are not recommended per manufacturer's manual. i tried dampering anyway, did little to help air flow in the front bedroom, but would at least keep the back room from being over heated. It appears to me that it's a combination of the unit design and the duct layout. The air tap for the front of the fifth wheel comes off the infloor duct system with a 4" duct - then splits - one duct to the bedroom and one duct to the bathroom. i had some luck in elimating the bathroom duct all together. The design of the furnace itself seems to limit the airflow - With the "bottom" connection used, the air flow is greatly restricted by the the front panel - really not easy for the air to flow around the heating chamber - thus creating more static pressure before the air even leaves the unit.
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:57 PM   #25
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I believe Hankpage has made some modifications to the ductwork leading to the upper bedroom in his 5th. He has a post on this thread showing part of his handiwork. I have similar problems with heat distribution to the upper bedroom in my 5th but I am guessing that it is smaller than yours and with a different layout. I have replaced the vent covers with ones that have adjustable louvres so you can shut off the warm air from the one or two in the lower section of the 5th which slightly increases the flow to the upper bedroom. I also plan to replace the flex ducting with rigid ducting this Spring. That might improve the flow to the upper bedroom as well. Somehow, I think that the upper bedroom will never see adequate air flow. Not sure if it is a design issue, a furnace that is too small to do the job, a long duct run or ????? Extra blankets work wonders.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:37 PM   #26
CLUSINGER
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Thanks for the reply. I tried the adjustable grilles, it helps "some" with the overheating in the back bedroom, but does nothing to push any additional air to the front. Also, after installing adjustable grilles, i pulled out the owner's manual - it states not to restrict the air flow at the grilles or install an inline booster fan. It won't be an issue to close off the air at the grilles as long as I create another means for the additional air to discharge - to maintain close to the same static pressure on the fan. Easier said than done though. For me anyway, if we're by ourselves, then there's really not an issue with it being colder in the front bedroom, but there's no way anyone else would be able to stay in the back bedroom. i haven't put a thermometer in that room, but i'm sure it's 20 degrees plus warmer in there. I think re-ducting the entire system may be the only way to correct it - by using the side and front discharge locations. The furnace has plenty of air volume - but by using the bottom discharge on the unit i don't think enough air gets by the heating chamber within the unit.
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:18 AM   #27
det
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Has Anyone talked to Keystone, is there anybody else we can talk to? My 293sab is a great trailer except the heat, 30 degrees hoter in back bed and bath eve hotter.
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:11 PM   #28
Killinski
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Better than original

We just purchased a 293 and had no air volume in the front 2 (bedroom/bathroom) vents. We put adjustable vents covers on the back bathroom and bedroom vents, but that only made it a tiny bit better. Still a problem.
The following improved things enough to heat the front of the trailer.
-Replaced the 4" hose from the floor (under step) to the wye with 4" hard flex dryer hose and 90 degree elbow. Less curves plus smooth sides improves air flow.
-Replaced the T box with 4" to 3" wye. The T box greatly reduced air flow. The wye allows for straight flow to the bedroom with a 45 degree angle to the bathroom. To improve the flow, 3" was used to the vents. 4" to 4" would have made the flow worse.
-Replaced 4" hose with 3" hard flex dryer hose to both vents. Adapter used at each vent to go from 3" to 4".
-Used heat tape (home heat ducting tape) to seal all connections
With the back 2 vents cracked open just a little, the front vents now get enough air flow to heat both rooms. It does take a couple of minutes for the front vents to start pushing a good air flow. Needs to develope enough pressure. About $50 in parts and about 2 plus hours works. It was worth the effort.
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #29
hankpage
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KILLINSKI, Nice fix. Mine only has one forward vent so hard flex and metal elbows fixed mine. Also try metal vent tape on the knock-outs on the heaters plenum ..... this increased the pressure to my vents. Welcome to the forum, Hank
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:29 PM   #30
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Good ideas and suggestions for those of us having the same problem. I need an explanation of "wye"........ Is this the same as "Y"? Obviously, I am missing something here.......Welcome to the Forum. Oh me of little brain and of numerous senior moments.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:37 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festus2 View Post
Good ideas and suggestions for those of us having the same problem. I need an explanation of "wye"........ Is this the same as "Y"? Obviously, I am missing something here.......Welcome to the Forum. Oh me of little brain and of numerous senior moments.
Yes ... a wye is a y ....... unless it's a tee-wye than it's the same as a t-y. It has to do with the shape and angle of the fitting.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:34 PM   #32
Killinski
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You got it. Thanks for the welcome comment and the knock-out suggestion.
Additional info
-Wye, elbow and adapters came from local hvac company. All other parts from Home Depot.
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:02 PM   #33
det
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Heater

Well, Back at the dealer the heat problem goes on and on. 45 degree difference between front bed and back bed. (293sab) Keystone says that the fix is in the front ducting, a y tube needs to changed. Not sure what they meant. For all you other folks having heat problems the furnace (suburban) says do no plug any duck work with magnets or louvered vents.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:41 PM   #34
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balance the heat

We too have a brand new 293sab and found the same problem, to much heat in the back and not enuff in the front, and it comes down to balance. All forced hot air heating systems wheather in your house or your camper need to be balanced, with out getting into to much science it has to do with static pressure in other words the longer the pipe the harder the air has to over come resistance,an since the pipe or duct if you like, to the back bed room is shorter the less resitance it meets. to shorten this explanation go to your home improvment store and replace the grills with louvered ones or close off half to 2/3erds with a pice of cardbaord or somthing to force mor air elswhear you may have to do others until you balance it to your likeing

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