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Old 02-14-2018, 02:35 AM   #21
jimhardenbrook
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Mine had little heat from. Bedroom floor vent.

Round silver type air hose had slipped off furnace. Removed drawers and re-attached silver duct and fixed. SIMPLE


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Old 02-14-2018, 03:48 PM   #22
gordo
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I'll take a look at that as well....

THANKS
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Old 02-16-2018, 05:08 AM   #23
flybouy
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Now that I have re-read what you posted, and you are right. I just get frustrated with dealing with them.

I will go take a look at the duct work too. It could be disconnected somewhere.

Thanks to all for the good advise. Now I just need to get my truck, get it set up for the tow, so we can go.
Hang in there gordo it will get better. As much as I dislike dealers you can't get frustrated with them because you don't understand what they are telling you. This is a common issue with the industry as things in a camper don't work the same way as in a stick and brick house. The industry compounds the issue by poorly integrating systems that don't play well together or are not intuitive to operate, referring to OE instructions that may read like a 1980's Chinese toy assembly book. This forum is an excellent resource as the members here are not only willing to help but have most likely "been there done that" with the issue that you are facing and can save you much time and frustration. Enjoy your new fiver and travel safe.
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:12 PM   #24
gordo
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Hang in there gordo it will get better. As much as I dislike dealers you can't get frustrated with them because you don't understand what they are telling you. This is a common issue with the industry as things in a camper don't work the same way as in a stick and brick house. The industry compounds the issue by poorly integrating systems that don't play well together or are not intuitive to operate, referring to OE instructions that may read like a 1980's Chinese toy assembly book. This forum is an excellent resource as the members here are not only willing to help but have most likely "been there done that" with the issue that you are facing and can save you much time and frustration. Enjoy your new fiver and travel safe.
I have had a number of different rigs, and you are right, NOTHING seems normal. I had a boat once that had an electrical issue. When I asked about the color code on wires, the dealer just laughed and said it depended on who was working the day my boat was built, and what their favorite color was....

As far as this forum, I love it. I have received a lot of help already..Thanks again..
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Old 02-19-2018, 05:15 AM   #25
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As for the Andersen, I am thinking the steel one as well. New truck will have the puck set up, so rails will be the answer. Still debating with myself which way to go. Fifth wheels are tried and true, but then again, so was the horse and buggy.

Thanks again for the advise...
I had the original steel rail mount in my previous truck and got the pucks with my new truck so I bought the Reese puck to rail adapter. It raised the Andersen 2.5" off the bed and I couldn't get my truck level. I bought the aluminum goose ball mount and we are level now. Reese adapter sold. Will be posting the steel Andersen this spring.
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:03 PM   #26
gordo
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I had the original steel rail mount in my previous truck and got the pucks with my new truck so I bought the Reese puck to rail adapter. It raised the Andersen 2.5" off the bed and I couldn't get my truck level. I bought the aluminum goose ball mount and we are level now. Reese adapter sold. Will be posting the steel Andersen this spring.
How do you like the Andersen? I have not heard a bad thing yet, except that it is something new.

For those of us that have a hard time with change, we need LOTS of reassurance..
I have a new F350 ordered, and am REALLY leaning that way.

Thanks for the info
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Old 02-21-2018, 02:20 PM   #27
WanderOne
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I have the same problem with my 2018 Cougar 25RES 5W. I want to start looking at ducting. Do I just start dropping the underbelly? Or is that full of foam. I know this forum says everything is repairable but, Gulp....

Also when looking at wall in basement to see ducting under upstairs, is that something that is just screws or staples and glue?

Any guidance welcomed.
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:26 PM   #28
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There are at least two "screwed in place" panels in the basement. Look for them, remove the screws (probably 4 on each panel) and you can access most of the ductwork, wiring that's under the steps going up to the bedroom, plumbing for the gray and black tank, shower, bathroom sink and black tank flush and the back of the water heater. The ducting from the underside of the main cabin floor runs up through the floor into that area of the basement, connects to the duct that's against the ceiling of the basement storage and the underside of the aluminum ducting for the bath/bedroom is attached to the top of the basement storage.

I would leave the coroplast alone until you check the condition of the ducting behind the basement storage. That's much easier to access and often is the location of any kinks or twists in the round "dryer vent hose" ducting.
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:34 AM   #29
SkiSmuggs
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How do you like the Andersen? I have not heard a bad thing yet, except that it is something new.

For those of us that have a hard time with change, we need LOTS of reassurance..
I have a new F350 ordered, and am REALLY leaning that way.

Thanks for the info
I am the opposite and embrace change when it appears to be a clear advantage. When I first saw the Andersen, I thought I gotta have it as I didn't want to wrestle a 100 lb hitch ever again. Both the steel and the aluminum have been great. Generation 1 of the aluminum had a rarely discovered weakness, but Andersen fixed it with a new design and offered free updates.
There are adamant nay sayers who have never tried it and never will.
Just like diesel additives. While I agree most are snake oil, I use the ones that work for me rather than take advice from the throwing my money away crowd. I am good with proven benefit.
Back to your regularly scheduled programming of heat duct problems.
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