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Old 11-12-2018, 10:20 AM   #11
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Do you have a water pressure regulator on your trailer? Maybe it's too high?


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Old 11-12-2018, 10:25 AM   #12
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Yes, brand new water pressure regulator

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Old 11-12-2018, 07:53 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by cayovelez View Post
So I have replaced the relieve valve twice, installed a water pressure regulator, re-established air pocket 4 times this week and changed the Thermostat and still weeping a reasonable amount of water. I don't think an expansion tank would help since I am constantly connected to city water, so at least I believe since my understanding of expansion tank is to help the pump.
When you are connected to city water, there is a check valve in the city water inlet that does not allow water to reverse flow back into the hose, and that is where you are building up excess pressure which is causing the T&P valve to open and leak water. If you install an expansion tank and get it pressurized correctly, it will absorb that excess pressure and probably stop the water leak.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:59 PM   #14
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Thanks Bob! I will try that. It is probably going to take me a week or more to get it installed, I am in the middle of nowhere working. Thanks again, I was under the impression the expansion tank was just for the pump.

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Old 11-13-2018, 05:45 AM   #15
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Just throwing this out...if you have the hwh on all day and the hot water is not being used for several hours at a time a little leaking is normal. Of course my "little bit" could be your "flood" so without a video or some other quantitative measurement then it's conjecture.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:53 AM   #16
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flybouy, Thanks did not think of that.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:42 PM   #17
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Hi Carlos:
I don't know a lot about water heaters, but I know a lot about troubleshooting.
First, you should establish exactly where the water is coming from. Is it leaking around the threads of the bypass valve or from the outlet of the valve, or maybe somewhere else entirely?
If it is coming out of the valve outlet and you have already replaced the valve then the possibilities are
1. The replacement valve was also defective (unlikely, but possible)
2. The pressure in the tank is greater than what the valve is rated for, so now you have to find out why. This usually comes from the addition of the mains pressure and the pressure caused by heat expansion of the water. According to the manual, the air gap in the tank is supposed to allow for that, so either (a) the heat expansion is too great because of too high temperature, or (b) the mains pressure is too great.

You mentioned that you have a water regulator. If it is one with a gauge, you could try setting the pressure into the trailer at a lower setting to see if this helps. The water pump in my trailer is rated at 2.5 Bar which is about 36PSI from memory. I set my regulator to about 40PSI because I had a problem with the non return valve in the pump getting jammed by the mains pressure. This is an easy path to a possible fix. If it doesn't work, it costs nothing and you move to the next possible causes.

If it's not the mains pressure causing too much expansion, then is it too much heat? As others have said, you can measure the temperature of the water coming out of the system to check that. If it's too high, then the thermostat is your culprit.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:34 PM   #18
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I noticed mine will weep when I have gas and electric on at the same time.It would leak in the cargo bay so I applied a piece of eturnabond tape in the area where the heater and exterior of trailer come together. That way the water would travel over that joint and not intrude into the cargo area. I just run one or the other not sure if it was heat or the pressure.
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:25 AM   #19
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Water heater pressure relief valves, unless defective and needing to be replaced, normally only leak for two reasons.
1. Incoming water pressure is too high for that particular system
2. Internal pressure in the heater tank is too high because of the heating device control (either the gas thermostat or the electric element thermostat) is not shutting off at the proper temperatures.

When this happens (overheating) the internal pressure in the tank goes above the setpoint of the pressure relief valve and causes it to drip or to actually flow water a bit.
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:49 AM   #20
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You have been given a bunch of good advice above including xrated and FlyingAroundRV. Here are a couple of thoughts.
1. If you are leaking around the valve and used a Teflon tape for the sealant, that is not always sufficient. I have sometimes found that pipe threads need a paste sealant to make up for the micro defects in a threaded interface.
2. Regarding a pressure tank, you are correct. If installed correctly, a pressure simply keeps your pump from cycling during small water use cycles and when you are NOT on city water. To explain how this works, a pressure tank has two compartments separated by a flexible bladder. The tank also has a pressure setting valve (typically a Schrader valve like on an inner tube) that sets the operating pressure. A good pressure would be 40 psi. The other side - the wet side connects to your water supply. If the wet side volume is one gallon, you can use nearly one gallon of water before your pump will cycle. Then, the pump will run until you close the faucet you are using and until the wet side of the pressure tank fills to the setpoint pressure. This process is how the plumbing system for houses that use well water versus a city main supply.

Thus, a pressure tank for you when connected to the city water is irrelevant and will not help anything.

So, follow the advice of others and make sure you are not leaking around the threads and, if so, reinstall the valve using a good pipe sealant from Home Depot or Lowes.

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