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Old 11-12-2018, 09:29 AM   #11
TLB
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
It can be patched with eternabond tape. Easy and inexpensive compared to a new roof. Eternabond tape is less than $100.00 for a roll, new roof is in the $5,000.00-$7,000.00 range.
Once again chuckster57 is the person with the answers
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:38 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by TLB View Post
Once again chuckster57 is the person with the answers
I agree !!! If the tear is "too close to the edge "rollover" and there's not enough along the side to adhere, just remove the "gutter molding" in that area, apply the Eternabond tape "all the way to the edge of the TPO", reinstall the "gutter molding" over the Eternabond and then seal with DICOR self leveling sealant on "horizontal surfaces" and DICOR non self leveling sealant on "vertical surfaces"....

No need to make it any more "painful to talk about than to perform the repair"....

On the other hand, if the insurance company opts to replace the roof and your deductible is less than the "Eternabond repair" then you've got to either "flip a coin" or "make a decision".... Otherwise, Eternabond and DICOR seem the most logical (as well as economical) repair choice.
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I agree !!! If the tear is "too close to the edge "rollover" and there's not enough along the side to adhere, just remove the "gutter molding" in that area, apply the Eternabond tape "all the way to the edge of the TPO", reinstall the "gutter molding" over the Eternabond and then seal with DICOR self leveling sealant on "horizontal surfaces" and DICOR non self leveling sealant on "vertical surfaces"....

No need to make it any more "painful to talk about than to perform the repair"....

On the other hand, if the insurance company opts to replace the roof and your deductible is less than the "Eternabond repair" then you've got to either "flip a coin" or "make a decision".... Otherwise, Eternabond and DICOR seem the most logical (as well as economical) repair choice.
Also take into consideration the increase in insurance premiums which will surely happen. Save the claim for a total write off. I wish I had done that.JMO
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:29 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
If you need the new roof check out RV Armor roof coating. It's a spray on similar to truck bed liners except designed for rvs. They come to you to do the install & it's garranteed for life. I would do this long before I'd have a dealer just replace the roof membrane, cost is close to the same, but much more durable.
RV-Armor tech comes to your trailer and performs the work. First, they go over every inch and clean and repair what needs fixing. Then 2 part epoxy type stuff (not sure what it is but it is two part) to allow bonding of their top coat product to the rubber roof. Then they ROLL their product on the roof. Two coats and it is thick and tough and guaranteed forever. The guarantee papers have your VIN and it is FULLY transferable to the next owner. Contact me via PM if you need more info or tips on this product. Just ripped my roof and the insurance company bought me an RV-Armor roof. Was also a lot cheaper than a new rubber roof.

There are other products out there that are sprayed on and some of them are really good but you have to take your trailer to an install facility and leave it for the work to be done.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:31 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 66joej View Post
Also take into consideration the increase in insurance premiums which will surely happen. Save the claim for a total write off. I wish I had done that.JMO
I think it depends on the insurance company. We insure our 5ver (and several bikes) through Progressive and have never had our rates go up after a claim. period. Other insurance companies may be different in that regard.
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Old 11-12-2018, 06:01 PM   #16
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Thanks for the input. I called my insurance and they are going to send someone to give me a quote. I also called my dealer and they told me to send them pictures so they have some idea of the damage, but also then told me they canít take on a roof job until January. So I definitely have to do something in the meantime. I will check out the rv armor roof if replacement is needed and in the meantime Iím going to get the eternabond and see what I can do. One thing the dealer said that made sense to me was that if they were to patch it they wanted to pull the wall out and get the eternabond behind the wall to make sure it sealed well. Itís a good thing camping is so much fun because otherwise it might make you crazy
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Old 11-13-2018, 05:42 PM   #17
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Just to chime in we had something hit us on the interstate that tore our roof this year, I have Progressive and they covered everything. New PVC roof and my rates have not increased. The whole process was super easy. One thing the repair guy suggested was acceptable damage to reduce my 1k deductible essentially I accepted the scratches on the AC cover all were superficial.
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:49 AM   #18
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Research Flexarmor. Insurance pays for it and you will never have to do any maintenance to your roof again. Lifetime warranty that transfers with sale of trailer.
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:14 AM   #19
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We've had several threads that discussed using "Line-X" as a roof coating. When you look at the chemical properties of Flex Armor or Roof Armor, they are essentially the same (or very similar) as Line-X.

Poly-urea coating is the "base product" for most "spray on roof coatings" and Poly-urea is the "base product" for Line-X.

Seems the local Line-X dealer that spray coated a couple of RV's in this area several years ago was a "front runner" to the Flex Armor industry LOL

I'd say that if it lasts 10 years or more in a pickup bed without damage, it should survive almost anything (short of a falling tree) on an RV roof.

Who knows, it may even replace TPO (wishful thinking) as a Keystone standard feature or optional item......
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
We've had several threads that discussed using "Line-X" as a roof coating. When you look at the chemical properties of Flex Armor or Roof Armor, they are essentially the same (or very similar) as Line-X.

Poly-urea coating is the "base product" for most "spray on roof coatings" and Poly-urea is the "base product" for Line-X.

Seems the local Line-X dealer that spray coated a couple of RV's in this area several years ago was a "front runner" to the Flex Armor industry LOL

I'd say that if it lasts 10 years or more in a pickup bed without damage, it should survive almost anything (short of a falling tree) on an RV roof.

Who knows, it may even replace TPO (wishful thinking) as a Keystone standard feature or optional item......
I think the biggest difference would be the "flex", the rv coatings spray over the original roof material so therefore has to have a good amount of flex. The Line X seems to be much harder & sprayed onto surfaces that do not flex. The Rhino lining may be better to try on a roof as it's more rubbery, softer, less hardner than Line X.
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