Tire Changing

[Bohdan]

Greetings ,
Perhaps somebody can give me some advice. I am a new owner of a 2010 Fuzion Toy Hauler triple axel. Need to change the tires. Probably do myself since it is easier than hauling a rig around. Does the trailer aid work for triple axel trailers? If I have to use a bottle jack, do i have to hook up the truck tio the rig so that the landing gears and stabilizers don't get compromised by the leaning of the rig? Mighty obliged.

[Badbart56]

I just pulled mine down to the tire shop and let them do it. What is this “trailer aid” ? Are you talking about the stabilizers?

[KSH]

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T.../dp/B000YOH16I

[Frank G]

You are in for a lot of work, if you do it by the book you need (4) jacks and Jack stands capable of jacking the unit under the frame and supporting it. You also need a high torque impact driver and torque wrench. I made the assumption you want to change all six at one time. I carry one of those "Trailer-Aid" devices for emergency use only, and yes our unit is only two axle.

I would not connect it to the truck when jacking the entire unit up.

If you don't have the proper equipment and are not comfortable with the process, please let someone else do it.

[wiredgeorge]

I would also like to point out that the lug nuts are torqued to about 100 lbs. An impact driver is almost a necessity. A small portable compressor won't really do so you need a compressor with some capacity which makes dragging the compressor over to the RV a bit of a chore. I have a 160 PSI Sears oil-less that does this for me as it is on wheels. My shop compressor is stationary.

The Trailer-Aid is more useful for leveling on a sloping site than lifting one of the tires. If you are level and on a solid surface, you might get one of the three tires on a side up and the only way to know this is to try.

If it were me, I would drag the trailer to a tire shop. When I have replaced all the tires, this means I don't have to spend a day breaking my back. Changing tires is also no bueno if you don't have a hydraulic tire changing machine. I have a small Harbor Freight manual tire changing machine and changing a tire is a misery these days.

[sourdough]

I would let a shop do it. Much quicker and easier, especially with a triple axle. As far as the Trailer Aid.....I bought one, tried to use it on a flat and it would not raise the flat tire enough to get it off - I threw it in the back of the barn somewhere years ago and haven't seen it since.

[Don N.]

Same thing happened to me when I tried the trailer aid to change a flat....did not raise the flat tire high enough to put on the spare.....POS

[Javi]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I would also like to point out that the lug nuts are torqued to about 100 lbs. An impact driver is almost a necessity. A small portable compressor won't really do so you need a compressor with some capacity which makes dragging the compressor over to the RV a bit of a chore. I have a 160 PSI Sears oil-less that does this for me as it is on wheels. My shop compressor is stationary.

The Trailer-Aid is more useful for leveling on a sloping site than lifting one of the tires. If you are level and on a solid surface, you might get one of the three tires on a side up and the only way to know this is to try.

If it were me, I would drag the trailer to a tire shop. When I have replaced all the tires, this means I don't have to spend a day breaking my back. Changing tires is also no bueno if you don't have a hydraulic tire changing machine. I have a small Harbor Freight manual tire changing machine and changing a tire is a misery these days.

I carry a 48" breakover bar.... much lighter and takes up a lot less room than an air compressor..

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Javi

I carry a 48" breakover bar.... much lighter and takes up a lot less room than an air compressor..

I keep a Dewalt 1/2" impact in the truck. Haven't meet a bolt that's challenged it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899...+impact+driver

[xrated]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I keep a Dewalt 1/2" impact in the truck. Haven't meet a bolt that's challenged it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899...+impact+driver

I have a 1/2" DeWalt impact also that goes with me on every outing. It's there for changing a flat only and I would never try to do all four tires on the trailer instead of taking it to a tire shop. I also carry the Andersen Rapid Jack and it does lift the flat off the ground enough to get it off the trailer. But more importantly, it lifts the trailer enough to get the fully inflated spare on. I also carry a 160 ft lb torque extension for the impact as the dually tires lug nuts are supposed to be at 165 ft. lbs.

[Randyf7f]

Just R&R'd a few tires on our triple axle toy hauler. I used a jack under the frame rails, then placed jack stands on each side, aft of the wheels. Rig was not hitched to the truck. I took most, but not all of the weight off the wheels with the jack stands, then loosened the lug nuts just enough so that I could remove them with not too much effort once I raised each tire off the ground (independantly) with a bottle jack under the end of the axle. I extended the jack a couple inches or so before it touched the axle, to avoid it bottoming (and not being able to remove it). I never had more than two wheels off of a side at any time, as I was on a very slight incline, and wanted to keep chocks under the remaining wheels. I have heavy-duty jack stands, and would not want to rely on those not rated, or suited (mine have a wide base) for the load. A good gust of wind might ruin one's day.

Good time to clean and repack the bearings, change the seals, and adjust and test the brakes (though I would not be under the axles, even while on jack stands, unless the wheels were in place.

With regard to the wheels: Heed Keystone's torque and re-torque procedure religously, and do not let a shop impact the wheels on, even with torque-sticks. I'll use an impact to remove a wheel now and then, but always hand tighten them on. The last owner had wheels come loose - they wobbled around so violently that two or three wheel studs snapped off- a wonder they stopped the rig before one departed. I always carry a torque wrench and check frequently. After any wheel R&R, it usually takes three or four retorques before they hold the torque value (for our rig, the manual says 110-120 ft.lbs. and to retorque at 10, 25, 50 miles, then before each trip). I'm always surprised how much they loosen in the first 10-20 miles.

[Bohdan]

Originally Posted by Randyf7f

Just R&R'd a few tires on our triple axle toy hauler. I used a jack under the frame rails, then placed jack stands on each side, aft of the wheels. Rig was not hitched to the truck. I took most, but not all of the weight off the wheels with the jack stands, then loosened the lug nuts just enough so that I could remove them with not too much effort once I raised each tire off the ground (independantly) with a bottle jack under the end of the axle. I extended the jack a couple inches or so before it touched the axle, to avoid it bottoming (and not being able to remove it). I never had more than two wheels off of a side at any time, as I was on a very slight incline, and wanted to keep chocks under the remaining wheels. I have heavy-duty jack stands, and would not want to rely on those not rated, or suited (mine have a wide base) for the load. A good gust of wind might ruin one's day.

Good time to clean and repack the bearings, change the seals, and adjust and test the brakes (though I would not be under the axles, even while on jack stands, unless the wheels were in place.

With regard to the wheels: Heed Keystone's torque and re-torque procedure religously, and do not let a shop impact the wheels on, even with torque-sticks. I'll use an impact to remove a wheel now and then, but always hand tighten them on. The last owner had wheels come loose - they wobbled around so violently that two or three wheel studs snapped off- a wonder they stopped the rig before one departed. I always carry a torque wrench and check frequently. After any wheel R&R, it usually takes three or four retorques before they hold the torque value (for our rig, the manual says 110-120 ft.lbs. and to retorque at 10, 25, 50 miles, then before each trip). I'm always surprised how much they loosen in the first 10-20 miles.

Thanks. If I understood your message, did you raise your entire rig? Or just one side? I
Am just going to do one side. Thinking of simply putting a bottle jack on the rail right in front of the most front wheel. Maybe lifting a whole side? Doing three wheels? If I put the jack on the frame behind the most back wheel, seems like it isn’t the center of gravity. More of the center in front. Any advice.

[James p]

Probably the best trailer tire is the new GOOYEAR Assurance, made in the USA.

Next would probably be the MAXXIS/

Like a tire shop due the changes.

[MattE303]

Originally Posted by James p

Probably the best trailer tire is the new GOOYEAR Assurance, made in the USA.

Next would probably be the MAXXIS/

Like a tire shop due the changes.

I think virtually every Sailun s637 owner would disagree with your 1,2 rankings, especially if you take price into account. Even if you don't consider price, I would put the Sailuns up against any ST tire on the market!

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by MattE303

I think virtually every Sailun s637 owner would disagree with your 1,2 rankings, especially if you take price into account. Even if you don't consider price, I would put the Sailuns up against any ST tire on the market!

Agreed. The same goes for Carlisle Radial Trail HD and the older Radial Trail RH lines. There are more and more "Chinese brands" coming on the market every day. Some are turning out to be quality tires, some are "rebranded junk".

In the "world of ST tires" those 4 brands tend to rise to the top: Carlisle, Goodyear (Endurance), Maxxis and Sailun... (alphabetically so not to rank in any order of quality).....

[WaltBennett]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I would also like to point out that the lug nuts are torqued to about 100 lbs. An impact driver is almost a necessity. A small portable compressor won't really do so you need a compressor with some capacity which makes dragging the compressor over to the RV a bit of a chore. I have a 160 PSI Sears oil-less that does this for me as it is on wheels. My shop compressor is stationary.

Better not be that tight. Typical lug nut torque is supposed to be 80 lbs (unless some shop uses only their impact wrench!). I've changed my tires twice now. Both times I jacked one side and took off the wheels, took them to a shop and then put them back on myself with a torque wrench set to 80 lbs. Last time was early this year just before my 74th birthday. I did use an air wrench to remove the nuts but put them back on by hand. That first time was to a Firestone dealer and even though I specifically told them NOT to take off the metal valve stems, they still did. Spent two years trying to get 80 psi into those wiggly rubber things until I did the jacking thing again just to replace them with metal ones.

BTW, if your new/old toy hauler has original tires, you've got a blow out coming very soon. Look for the DOT stamp on the sidewalls that has the week and year they were made. Anything over five - six years is suspect and over eight is playing with fire no matter how new they look. These things will rot out from the inside.

[JRTJH]

According to the 2018 edition of the Keystone Owner's Manual, page 23 in the Pre Trip Maintenance section:

"Lug nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft/lbs (140-150 ft/lbs on hubs using a 9/16” stud)."

This is what's in the 2012 edition of the Owner's Manual, page 21:
"Lug nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft/lbs on all units except for the Cambridge, which requires 140-150 ft/lbs. This is due to the use of a 9/16” stud versus a 1/2” inch stud used on other units."

This statement precedes the torqueing instructions in the 2012 Manual: "The information contained in these printed instructions outlines the most recently recommended processes involving Lug Nut Torque and takes precedent over any information regarding Lug Nut Torque shown in your Lippert, Dexter or AL-KO Owners’ Manuals."
YMMV

[travelin texans]

The simple answer is "NO" on the Trailer Aid on triple axles, the wide stance double axles & not very well on any axles, save your money & put towards the new tires.
As to jacking it up, as long as you put the jacks directly under the springs on the axle, the manufacturers will say NO to that along with others here, but I've done so for 40+ years without issue. If you have the hydraulic leveling system you can use it to raise the wheels off the ground, as with using bottle jacks the manufacturer will say NO, but again that's just their lawyers talking, just use caution & jack stands to be safe.

[flybouy]

I have a trailer aid + which has a 2" thick slice of rubber on top. Works great on our two axle unit. Even if you use the spare (extra work changing it twice) you're making 3 trips. Easier to drag it there.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I have a trailer aid + which has a 2" thick slice of rubber on top. Works great on our two axle unit. Even if you use the spare (extra work changing it twice) you're making 3 trips. Easier to drag it there.

I was unaware of the Trailer Aid +. Just looked it up and it might work. When I tried to use ours the bad tire wouldn't clear the ground. Had to take a 2x6 and work to get the trailer up on the trailer aid with the 2x under it. Almost an effort in futility but finally got it.