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07-30-2018, 05:19 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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Fridge only using gas
OK! Now I'm stumped.
A couple of nights ago, the sound of the fridge cycling on gas woke me up (I'm a very light sleeper). But that seemed odd because we were hooked up to the electricity.
So the next day I did some troubleshooting
AC available at the fridge powerpoint and correct polarity: Yes
12V available at the back of the fridge and correct polarity: Yes
12V available on controller board and correct polarity: Yes
Resistance measure the electric heating element: 43 ohms
Fuses on the controller board intact: Yes
So based on the above, I decided that the controller board must have gone bad. This was consistent with advice from several sources. So I bought a new controller board and installed it and...
The fridge is still operating on gas even though we're connected to electrics! If I turn the gas off and run the lines dry (by lighting the stove) I get a check light on the fridge even though it should prioritize electric operation over gas according to the manual.
HELP!
Has anyone got other ideas of things I can check?
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07-30-2018, 06:39 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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What brand and model refrigerator do you have?
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-31-2018, 01:55 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
What brand and model refrigerator do you have?
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It's a Dometic DM2852. Very basic, no bells or whistles.
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07-31-2018, 04:23 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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I know this sounds silly... but turn the fridge off by pushing the off button... then make sure that the GAS button is UP (not depressed) then press only the ON button..
I have the same fridge and I've had the GAS button inadvertently get pushed a couple of times..
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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07-31-2018, 06:26 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi
I know this sounds silly... but turn the fridge off by pushing the off button... then make sure that the GAS button is UP (not depressed) then press only the ON button..
I have the same fridge and I've had the GAS button inadvertently get pushed a couple of times..
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Hi Javi:
On my fridge, when the button is up, it is in gas mode. Whn the button is pushed in it is on Auto mode which Should select AC when AC is present...but it doesn't.
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07-31-2018, 06:39 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,351
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Check for AC voltage at the back of the fridge in the cabinet. If that’s good then remove the cover from the control board. There are 2 separate fuses, they are labeled. If the 110VAC fuse is good then the board is bad.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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07-31-2018, 06:46 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
Check for AC voltage at the back of the fridge in the cabinet. If that’s good then remove the cover from the control board. There are 2 separate fuses, they are labeled. If the 110VAC fuse is good then the board is bad.
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Thanks for your suggestions, though you might like to go back and read my original post
I already tried those things, plus I've swapped out the controller board and the problem is still there!
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07-31-2018, 06:46 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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To follow the "this may sound silly" road, I'd suggest that you unplug the refrigerator from the wall plug and plug it into an extension cord. Determine if it works on AC while on an alternative power source. If it does, the problem is in the RV, if it doesn't, then it's in the refrigerator. All the basic troubleshooting for "No AC Operation" lends itself to the plug/power problems, heating element, control board and finally to the eyebrow control board. ALL of those are warranty issues and any RV dealer or Dometic service center can address them, but the first step, at least to me, is to see if the refrigerator will work when plugged into an extension cord.
Why? It may be something as simple as the refrigerator cord has a broken wire. The power plug in the RV checks good, the refrigerator components check good, but that 4' cord (which isn't being checked) isn't working...... Stranger (or more silly) things have happened......
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-31-2018, 06:48 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
To follow the "this may sound silly" road, I'd suggest that you unplug the refrigerator from the wall plug and plug it into an extension cord. Determine if it works on AC while on an alternative power source. If it does, the problem is in the RV, if it doesn't, then it's in the refrigerator. All the basic troubleshooting for "No AC Operation" lends itself to the plug/power problems, heating element, control board and finally to the eyebrow control board. ALL of those are warranty issues and any RV dealer or Dometic service center can address them, but the first step, at least to me, is to see if the refrigerator will work when plugged into an extension cord.
Why? It may be something as simple as the refrigerator cord has a broken wire. The power plug in the RV checks good, the refrigerator components check good, but that 4' cord (which isn't being checked) isn't working...... Stranger (or more silly) things have happened......
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Not so silly. I have seen this suggested elsewhere and I will give this a try.
However, I did measure the AC at the controller board and it looked OK, but still, at this point anything is worth a try.
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07-31-2018, 06:58 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV
Hi Javi:
On my fridge, when the button is up, it is in gas mode. Whn the button is pushed in it is on Auto mode which Should select AC when AC is present...but it doesn't.
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--AUTO - AES/AUTO mode (AC and Gas)
Press the AUTO/GAS - AES/AUTO/Gas mode
selector button (if not already on). The illuminated
lamp indicates the selected mode.
(If the CHECK indicator lamp is illuminated,
see REFRIGERATOR OVERVIEW > MODES
OF OPERATION > AUTO MODE - AES/AUTO
MODE for further information.)
--GAS mode (LP gas operation only)
Press the AUTO/GAS - AES/AUTO/Gas mode
selector button to turn off the AUTO mode (if
not already off).
Yeah you're correct... I always get them backwards unless I standing in front of it..
And you say the 110v plug is hot?
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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07-31-2018, 08:42 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 3,015
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You’ve probably
Already got this but it seems to cover your works in gas but not AC mode issues
Maybe worth another look
https://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
__________________
2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
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07-31-2018, 02:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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OK! So I tried the extension lead fix. Connecting th fridge to a lead directly to the power pedestal... No joy, the fridge is still running on gas.
FWIW, I also contacted Dometic support and basically got the form letter
"We don't support consumers, only service centers/dealers..."
So I'm back to the situation where we're moving every 3-4 days, but I somehow have to get a serviceman (who typically want 5-7 days advance booking) to "diagnose" my fridge which will likely cost me ~$300 from what I've gathered from research.
GRRR!
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07-31-2018, 03:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV
OK! So I tried the extension lead fix. Connecting th fridge to a lead directly to the power pedestal... No joy, the fridge is still running on gas.
FWIW, I also contacted Dometic support and basically got the form letter
"We don't support consumers, only service centers/dealers..."
So I'm back to the situation where we're moving every 3-4 days, but I somehow have to get a serviceman (who typically want 5-7 days advance booking) to "diagnose" my fridge which will likely cost me ~$300 from what I've gathered from research.
GRRR!
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A lot of the mobile RV repair guys are warranty for Dometic ( I know mine is).. I don't take nothing to a dealer...
Don't know your present location but you can call around and find one..
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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