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Old 05-13-2017, 06:29 AM   #1
Scttw
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Question Fridge will only operate on Propane?

Good morning,

Last night I turned my inside fridge on (I have a fridge in shed as well).

It was "Whisper" quiet so I didn't think it was working. I went to bed assuming I would figure it out in the morning. Low and behold it's working perfect. I went out back and sure enough it's firing on LP mode.

It's in AUTO mode of course. It always attempts AC first. I swapped out the back fuse just to make sure it's not that. No change. I checked the receptacle with a hair dryer - it's fine.

Any suggestions what else I can check I would appreciate. Thanks in advance.

Scott
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:44 AM   #2
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Dilemma solved.

I didn't realize the SMART technology of the fridge. It' utilizes Gas as it's first choice when the fridge is dramatically over temperature. LP is so much more efficient it uses LP to lower the temp and then it switches to AC once it's down to the correct level.

Who knew? Pretty cool.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Scttw View Post
Dilemma solved.

I didn't realize the SMART technology of the fridge. It' utilizes Gas as it's first choice when the fridge is dramatically over temperature. LP is so much more efficient it uses LP to lower the temp and then it switches to AC once it's down to the correct level.

Who knew? Pretty cool.
I didn't know that the refridge's control board will prioritize LPG over electric in "AUTO" mode if the interior temps are high. I thought that while in "AUTO" mode, the refridge will attempt to use the AC function first. If AC is not detected, it will then switch over to LPG. That's at least how I think my refrigerator works. Did I underestimate the brains of my Dometic appliance?
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:14 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Scttw View Post
Dilemma solved.

I didn't realize the SMART technology of the fridge. It' utilizes Gas as it's first choice when the fridge is dramatically over temperature. LP is so much more efficient it uses LP to lower the temp and then it switches to AC once it's down to the correct level.

Who knew? Pretty cool.
Wondering where you got this info? That's a new one to me, too.
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:51 AM   #5
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Wondering where you got this info? That's a new one to me, too.
me too. I have started a PDI with interior temps above 100 and ambient air in the 90's and when set to AUTO the refer no matter what brand has ALWAYS started on electric. I know this for sure because I am doing a manometer test at the same time and my gauge doesn't drop indicating a gas valve opening. Something else must have been going on.
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:46 AM   #6
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me too. I have started a PDI with interior temps above 100 and ambient air in the 90's and when set to AUTO the refer no matter what brand has ALWAYS started on electric. I know this for sure because I am doing a manometer test at the same time and my gauge doesn't drop indicating a gas valve opening. Something else must have been going on.
I'm going to agree with chuckster57 on this as I've been in some ridiculous heat before and on auto it ALWAYS starts on electric.
I'm used to running on LP alot due to the places where I set up camp but when I'm on electric on auto the fridge always starts on electric.
I'm thinking that there was something else going on.
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:46 AM   #7
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If you have a VOM, check the electric heater element. High ohms means it is burned out.


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Old 07-25-2018, 12:54 PM   #8
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I'm having a similar problem with my Dometic DM2852. I discovered that our fridge is running on propane in spite of us being connect to electrics.
Here's what I checked and the results. I'd be glad of any further advice or things to check...
The AC powerpoint at the fridge has power to it
There is AC at the connections to the controller board
I used an ohmmeter to check the two fuses on the circuit board
The resistance of the electric heating element read 43 ohms
The resistance of the thermistor sensor was about 800 ohms
When the gas was shut off (at the tank) I couldn't read any voltage at the heater connections.

My conclusion from this is that the controller board has failed. This could be wrong as I'm new to this technology (but not new to electronics).
Is there anything else I can check? I have a controller board on hold at a nearby CW and even though it's relatively cheap, I don't want to waste money on an unnecessary part. The trailer is still under warranty, but getting warranty work done for this is more trouble than it's worth and the board's only $75.

I'm also wondering why this part would have failed after 1-1/2 months of use of the trailer. We were at a CG where we had to use the generator for power and I'm wondering if this could have caused it. The gen is a new Champion 3500 inverter.
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV View Post
I'm having a similar problem with my Dometic DM2852. I discovered that our fridge is running on propane in spite of us being connect to electrics.
Here's what I checked and the results. I'd be glad of any further advice or things to check...
The AC powerpoint at the fridge has power to it
There is AC at the connections to the controller board
I used an ohmmeter to check the two fuses on the circuit board
The resistance of the electric heating element read 43 ohms
The resistance of the thermistor sensor was about 800 ohms
When the gas was shut off (at the tank) I couldn't read any voltage at the heater connections.

My conclusion from this is that the controller board has failed. This could be wrong as I'm new to this technology (but not new to electronics).
Is there anything else I can check? I have a controller board on hold at a nearby CW and even though it's relatively cheap, I don't want to waste money on an unnecessary part. The trailer is still under warranty, but getting warranty work done for this is more trouble than it's worth and the board's only $75.

I'm also wondering why this part would have failed after 1-1/2 months of use of the trailer. We were at a CG where we had to use the generator for power and I'm wondering if this could have caused it. The gen is a new Champion 3500 inverter.
Just a thought! You do have the fridge control panel set on "auto", "au"? If so then you do have control issues. If set on "LP" then it will only have 12 volts to the controls.
Mine has 3 settings on the front panel, "AU" is automatic, "LP" is gas only & "AC" is 120 volt only, mine stays set on auto so that whatever source is available is what it uses, if 120 volt is available it will always choose ac.
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Old 07-25-2018, 04:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Just a thought! You do have the fridge control panel set on "auto", "au"? If so then you do have control issues. If set on "LP" then it will only have 12 volts to the controls.
Mine has 3 settings on the front panel, "AU" is automatic, "LP" is gas only & "AC" is 120 volt only, mine stays set on auto so that whatever source is available is what it uses, if 120 volt is available it will always choose ac.
Yes, our fridge sems to be a basic model that only has "gas" and "auto" we don't have an "AC" setting. We always just leave it on "Auto".
I wasn't even aware there was a problem (although the clues were there in excessive propane consumption) until last night I woke up (3am) to the distinctive:
*Click, thump*
*tick, tick, tick...*
*whoosh*
I listened for a while and it kept repeating. "But we're connected to the electricity, so it shouldn't be doing that." I thought.
I went out and turned the gas bottle off and after a couple of minutes, the "check" light came on. That was the giveaway.

Thanks for your input on this. I'm not sure what resistance the electric element should be, but I'd bet it would probably be a low value when the element is cold.
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:05 PM   #11
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There are two fuses on the control board at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the black cover and you'll see the two glass cartridge fuses clipped on the board surface. Possibly one of them is blown.
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