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Old 06-12-2016, 10:03 AM   #1
Tinman97423
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ALL RV'S Shower cold water blast

Cold water blast in shower..
The blast of cold water has to be stopped at the shower cold/hot valve. I am not talking about the on/off valve at shower head. Think about this! When you close the valve at the shower head the cold water has more pressure behind it that the hot water coming from the heater. That means cold water will push the hot water back into the tubing until both hot and cold pressure equalize. There is about 6 feet of tubing from the shower valve to the heater where the cold water might push back the hot only in the tubing. It might push back about 1 to 1 ½ feet. There is a check valve on the hot water side of the heater (to keep anti freeze out of the heater). YOU NEED A CHECK VALVE AS CLOSE TO THE SHOWER VALVE AS POSSIBLE ON THE HOT WATER SIDE.
I have read about this once in Trailer Life and Motor Home magazines that verified my thinking about the cold blast.
My 2016 Cougar 303SLR has a hot water line coming from the heater up to the shower and is around 6 to 7 feet long. Before starting don’t forget to DRAIN the hot water side by opening a hot water valve at the bathroom sink or shower and then the drain valve under the trailer. I removed the shower valve VERY CAREFULLY using a plastic putty knife to remove the silicone around the valve housing. AGAIN be very careful when doing this because of NO backing for the four screws that hold the valve to just 1/16 inch of fiberglass backing. You should be able to remove the hot water connection with your fingers. Do not pull it out at this time. In the compartment below remove side panels and look to the upper left of the water heater near the force air heater and you will see the Hot (red) and Cold (blue) lines coming from the shower. Follow them towards the heater and where you have room to cut the Hot side (red) leaving at least 10 inch of tubing on both ends if cutting near an existing fitting. Back in the shower pull the hot line up about a foot (DO NOT PULL IT SO FAR THAT YOU PULL THE OTHER END INTO THE WALL. YOU MIGHT NOT GET IT BACK THROUGH)
Cut the line about 6 inch from the connector and at this point install the CHECK VALVE. Push the line back into the wall and connect it back to the shower valve. Now go back down and reconnect the hot supply using a coupler. I did not need to cut out the amount from the added fittings because there was plenty of room for the extra length of the fittings.
I now have about a 1 second spot of cold before the preset temp comes back. WHAT A DIFFERENCE…..

I found all of the fittings I needed at zoro.com that claims to have more than 300,000 fittings. Everything cost about $15 including shipping.

The coupler, ½” CTS, PEX, White Product Number G4389287 Stock #16T737 PE10420.
Along with the coupler be sure to get the Coupler ½” inserts Product Number G4388255 Stock # 16T768 (Two each).

Check Valve, Polysulfone, ½ inch Product Number G2781064
Stock # 1DAT2 (No inserts needed with check valve)
PLEASE CALL THEM TO CHECK THE NUMBERS
These fittings are for PEX tubing.
PLEASE check these numbers before ordering just incase I have made a typing mistake.
This should work on any RV if you can locate the shower water lines going into the heater and there is room to cut/add coupling.
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Old 06-12-2016, 05:04 PM   #2
Tbos
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Thanks. I might have to try this.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:08 PM   #3
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We never turn our shower till we are done. With 10 gallons we never run out!
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:48 PM   #4
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I actually do not shut the water off either and all is good, plenty of water.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:10 PM   #5
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Shut mine off no problem
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:09 PM   #6
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Sounds like a great idea if needed. I'm with the others on this one...we never turn it off till done showering! 12 gallon hot water tank.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:18 PM   #7
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When I shut mine off, then back on, I step back a bit for 5 seconds. So far I'm good with it.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:49 AM   #8
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^^^That.^^^ A grief tradeoff that I can live with.
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:16 PM   #9
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Learned an important lesson from you - it's not just me but you also when receiving these "I don't need that" troll comments when explaining an invention or unique discovery of some sort. Always great to see it's not only me LOL.

I'd like to say thanks to you for pointing this out. I knew one day I'd get to the jest of it and you make an excellent point in that putting the check valve closer to the shower is the way to attack a problem that has been irritating the hell out of me since day one of RV ownership. I would have placed the check valve next to the heater and thus eliminated only a short part of that blast of cold.

Otherwise to those living in a parking lot somewhere with a constant flow of water and sewer while never having existed off a fresh water tank and pump, you guys are not RVing, you've just parked your current second home. Cut the cord, put away the TV and start rolling and living. It won't take you all long to learn to jump backward until you can get that check-valve installed ;-)
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:18 PM   #10
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The check valve is a month back ordered and the part number was different. I finally searched for just the words "Check Valve, Polysulfone, 1/2 In" and a generic version of the valve came up. I see that this valve has a 180F max operating temp and other valves have much lower temps, so that is something to watch out for over buying just any run of the mill check-valve.
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:47 PM   #11
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I installed a Camco 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer (P#23303) on the hot side of the faucet and a KES K1140B-2 BRASS Shower Head Shut-Off Valve that totally shuts off all water (No dribble) and I no longer get the water temp change when shutting the water off while soaping up.

Here are the links to what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:58 PM   #12
DonJuane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet View Post
Camco 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer (P#23303)

I looked at that valve but it doesn't state the maximum temp. The brass would take it but it all depends on the plastic parts inside if there are any. Nothing I saw in the specs if it is a hot water capable .... just a FYI.
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Old 03-22-2019, 01:11 PM   #13
WNY Bullet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonJuane View Post
I looked at that valve but it doesn't state the maximum temp. The brass would take it but it all depends on the plastic parts inside if there are any. Nothing I saw in the specs if it is a hot water capable .... just a FYI.
It doesn't, but on the Camco Website it is listed under their Water Heater Parts, so I was comfortable using it and it has worked all last season without failure.
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Old 05-17-2019, 04:36 PM   #14
Tinman97423
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Cold water blast

“DonJuane” THANKS for the reply… Its sometimes best to just ignore some posts…

I’m sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. I had some medical problems along with leaving on a trip.

Also, that idea came from someone else with a little change from me.
THANKS everyone who had suggestions on how to stop this cold water blast.
I intend to keep trying till I can stop the temp change 100%. SORRY DonJuane but it seems that I just stopped about 50%.

My 5th wheel is a Cougar 303RLS 2016 and by just removing two panels in the pass-thru compartment I have access to the water pump, water heater and furnace all just behind the docking station.
I now have a Pex manifold (see photo) with a 3/4 inch inlet and (3) 1/2inch outlets. The manifold is 1inch in diameter about 8inch long. I am going to make sure the water supply connector is at least a ¾ inch adapter so I can make a ¾ inch connection to the Pex manifold. I am going to cut into the main water supply line and attach the new Pex ¾ line to the end of the manifold. From the ½ outlets of the manifold one will connect to the hot water only and one will connect to the cold water supply capping the 3rd one. I’m hopping that will act like a separate supply line to hot and cold. I’m also going to add a small check valve to each line to stop any back pressure I hope. I found a crimping tool on Amazon that cost about $16 instead of $60 and up at hardware stores. I intend to start this project in a few days. I have all the parts and tools just need Pex check valves.
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:02 AM   #15
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Saw this in Trailer Life: http://www.trailerlife.com/tech/10-m...h-wash-and-go/
Really simple and cheap. Ordered the part a few days ago $8. Waiting now for the free shipping to show up
Planning to install and use this next week. Will post results.
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canonman View Post
Saw this in Trailer Life: http://www.trailerlife.com/tech/10-m...h-wash-and-go/
Really simple and cheap. Ordered the part a few days ago $8. Waiting now for the free shipping to show up
Planning to install and use this next week. Will post results.

I just ordered one as well - looks interesting. Now, to see when it comes in; that confirmation in Chinese...or whatever it is, gives me pause...
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:26 AM   #17
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I turn mine off, point it away from me for 6 seconds then all is well
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:01 PM   #18
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We turn both electric and propane on and I brush my teeth, shower AND shave all in one shower and it stays hot. Your definition of hot and my dermatologists idea are probably a little different. She stopped my really hot showers years ago.
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canonman View Post
Saw this in Trailer Life: http://www.trailerlife.com/tech/10-m...h-wash-and-go/
Really simple and cheap. Ordered the part a few days ago $8. Waiting now for the free shipping to show up
Planning to install and use this next week. Will post results.
I wonder whether that will actually work. By the looks of it, it just moves the shutoff point from the shower head down to just after the taps. The problem as I understand it is that when you shut off the flow with the taps still open, some water from the cold supply feeds back into the hot water line.
IMHO, the only fool-proof solution would be to shut off both the hot water supply and the cold water supply before the regulating taps and do it simultaneously.

There is probably a mechanical way to do this, but (as an electrical guy) I think a couple of 12V washing machine water solenoids in the supply lines and some kind of waterproof switch would get the job done.
As a mechanical solution, maybe a couple of ball valves with linked controls would work.
Another solution inspired by Tinman is maybe just a non return valve in each supply line before the taps.
Ooops, didn't read NYBullet's post first.
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet View Post
I installed a Camco 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer (P#23303) on the hot side of the faucet and a KES K1140B-2 BRASS Shower Head Shut-Off Valve that totally shuts off all water (No dribble) and I no longer get the water temp change when shutting the water off while soaping up.

Here are the links to what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Where did you install the back flow valve?
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