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Old 12-20-2018, 05:31 AM   #91
jeff57
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Originally Posted by Gegrad View Post
Jeff, since you are upgrading the wheels to 15", you might want to go ahead and just do the tires at LR E, instead of D. Would get extra reserve capacity for the same price. I believe the LR D and E were both like $64 for the Carlisle Radial Trail HDs. I did it and have been completely satisfied.

Thanks for the good idea, Matt. Since you have the same rims that I am looking at (rated at 2540 lbs) do you run the tire pressure for your LRE's at 80 psi or 65 psi?
It looks like your camper is a bit larger than mine (UVW, GVWR and length), did your camper come stock with 14" LRC or LRD tires?
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:47 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by CWtheMan View Post
Load capacity or PSI capacity or both.
I was referring to this statement. "Some rims/wheels may not allow correct bead seating unless the OE tire is used. Consult vehicle manufacturer." While the wheel might not be rated for the pressure or load, if the mounting surface is like/similar to the OE wheel then it'll accept the tire and the bead will seat. Also what chance does the average Joe have of getting information from the manufacturer other than printed/parroted CYA statements like you posted?
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:56 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
I was referring to this statement. "Some rims/wheels may not allow correct bead seating unless the OE tire is used. Consult vehicle manufacturer." While the wheel might not be rated for the pressure or load, if the mounting surface is like/similar to the OE wheel then it'll accept the tire and the bead will seat. Also what chance does the average Joe have of getting information from the manufacturer other than printed/parroted CYA statements like you posted?
I read both of your statements the same way, where the "some rims/wheels [that] may not allow correct bead seating" are the ones where you will have problems "if the mounting surface is [not] like/similar to the OE wheel". Not sure about trailer tires in general, but for Car/Truck/SUV, different rim contours or bead profiles come to mind. I believe the main thing to watch for bead seating on trailer tires (other than the obvious rim diameters) is the rim widths. If you take a 205 wide tire off of a 5.5" wide rim and try to put on a 225 wide tire, the beads come in at a different angle than they do on a 6" wide rim.

EDIT: I suppose the sidewalls are also not supported correctly by the flanges in that case but that's not directly related to bead seating as much as rim/bead surface contact.

EDIT-EDIT: Do the flanges even support the sidewalls? Maybe not, I am not a tire expert (IANATE?) by any stretch of the imagination.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:25 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
I was referring to this statement. "Some rims/wheels may not allow correct bead seating unless the OE tire is used. Consult vehicle manufacturer." While the wheel might not be rated for the pressure or load, if the mounting surface is like/similar to the OE wheel then it'll accept the tire and the bead will seat. Also what chance does the average Joe have of getting information from the manufacturer other than printed/parroted CYA statements like you posted?

The regulations/standards are written for all possible situations. The automotive industry will, at times, provide wheel/tire assemblies that are unique.


The FMVSS provide minimum standards. The industry must abide. To point out not to do less is not, IMO, a CYA statement by them.
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:28 AM   #95
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I do agree that using an undersize tire/wheel for the load is wrong. However because we have become such a litigious society manufacturers have been forced to use very general CYA statements. It's not just tires, cars, trailers, etc. If it were up to some nothing could be changed in any way shape or form from the way the manufacturer produced it. An example of CYA offerings is. How many times have you bought something and after reading all the warnings asked yourself "How could anyone be so foolish as to use it this way?" Would you use a hair dryer in the shower? Of course not but I'll bet there's a similar warning in the instructions for it.
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:44 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
I do agree that using an undersize tire/wheel for the load is wrong. However because we have become such a litigious society manufacturers have been forced to use very general CYA statements. It's not just tires, cars, trailers, etc. If it were up to some nothing could be changed in any way shape or form from the way the manufacturer produced it. An example of CYA offerings is. How many times have you bought something and after reading all the warnings asked yourself "How could anyone be so foolish as to use it this way?" Would you use a hair dryer in the shower? Of course not but I'll bet there's a similar warning in the instructions for it.
Just another example: Take a gander at a $1 white extension cord. There's two dollars worth of warning labels on it.... My opinon (FWIW) is you can't use the extension cord safely because of all the damn taped stickers that make it impossible to use.
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Old 12-22-2018, 04:31 PM   #97
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Are those replacement tires? If so, were the valve stems replaced? If so, are they the steel bolt-in type? If so, they may not have been torqued properly or the installer may have forgotten to install the inside or outside seals and all there would be is metal to metal sealing.



https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...pixs&FORM=IGRE
Metal valve stems. This morning after sitting for a few weeks 1 tire was down to 63 from 80. Took it to America's tires. They dismounted it, checked everything out and said it could be leaking due to my tst tps sensors on the valves. I'll take them off before i store it next time to see if that makes a difference.
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Old 12-22-2018, 04:44 PM   #98
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Metal valve stems. This morning after sitting for a few weeks 1 tire was down to 63 from 80. Took it to America's tires. They dismounted it, checked everything out and said it could be leaking due to my tst tps sensors on the valves. I'll take them off before i store it next time to see if that makes a difference.

My TST sensors (valve stem) don't leak. I have had multiple problems with sand getting in the schrader valves and then they wouldn't seal. On this trip I had one that would not stop leaking but just screwed the TST sensor on for a stop gap. Hasn't lost a lb in 8 weeks. I would look more closely at the stems, valves etc.
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:23 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by jeff57 View Post
Thanks for the good idea, Matt. Since you have the same rims that I am looking at (rated at 2540 lbs) do you run the tire pressure for your LRE's at 80 psi or 65 psi?
It looks like your camper is a bit larger than mine (UVW, GVWR and length), did your camper come stock with 14" LRC or LRD tires?
Jeff,
Mine came with the 14" LR C tires. I joined here a few days after getting home with it (around July 7 2017), started reading about tires, and had my 15" LR E Tires on it by August 20th or so, haha. I ran my tires at 70 psi for the end of 2017, but sometime around May 2018 I figured out how to up the output pressure on my compressor and now I run them at 75 psi.
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Old 02-15-2019, 08:36 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by OHIOJERRY View Post
Maybe I'm lucky or maybe I'm pushing my luck, but when every camping season ends I tell myself I'll get rid of my Trailer Kings and put on Endurances at the start of the next season. The Trailer Kings now have 13,700 miles on the and show no signs of wear issues. I just make sure I'm not overloaded and drive at the speed limits with a 65 maximum.
The travel trailer is a 2016 Outback 326RL.
I have a set of Trailer Kings on my 2017 29rkpr with 20k miles on them. So far no abnormal wear nor blemishes. I'll be replacing for this season due to wear only (and they're not particularly worn out at that). I'm just a bit leery with all these discussions I've read.

EDIT: Now I've seen what the inside looks like on some posted here. I'll be changing them out.
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