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Old 07-01-2012, 05:52 PM   #1
schwalbach
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Proper fifth wheel height

Looking for advice, is it best to pull a fifth wheel perfectly level or to have it 1-2 inches high on 30 foot, dealer says level? At level I seem to get some bucking from trailer? It is a super lite 275sbh. Has 1300 hitch weight, old trailer had 2300 lb hitch weight pulling 2 inches high in front and never had a issue, but was too heavy to buck! Pulling with 2500 ram diesel with camper package.

So what are you all dong level or high in front?
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:29 PM   #2
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Well I run a bit high in the front, have with both of my 5ers, but I am looking at leveling the current one. It is a 33' Copper Canyon I believe I have about 2,200 pin on it, but have not taken the time to weigh the truck as currently loaded.

This is a picture of it on the way home from Burlington, WA. empty, now that we have the basement loaded with gear it sits a bit lower in the front, but have look at raising 2" at the axles. Based on your statement may try lift blocks first and if all is good, get a 2" lift added to the frame.

Only time I get any bucking is on the bad sections of Highway 101 and Oregon 26 going to the coast.

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Old 07-02-2012, 02:34 AM   #3
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I went with level when full. The dealer made a guess and set it a little high in front empty.

I have a 3/4 ton as well. I get a little bounce on bad highways, but nothing bad.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:00 AM   #4
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Russ -
Just wondering what your reasons are for having your 5ths "a bit high in the front" instead of level? Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:16 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Festus2 View Post
Russ -
Just wondering what your reasons are for having your 5ths "a bit high in the front" instead of level? Thanks.
Currently haven't had the time to get the leveling blocks in, it doesn't tow bad, but I would like to level and then see how it tows. I don't really don't like blocks, but also don't want to spend a $1,000 or so to have the the spring perches permanently adjusted and find it tows like garbage.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:45 AM   #6
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you don't need springs you can adjust your king pin up and down. It bolts in place and has about 6-10" of adjustments.

I like mine level for best fuel mileage. I'm not sure it makes a difference,but in my mind it seems like it would.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:56 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by dave-g View Post
you don't need springs you can adjust your king pin up and down. It bolts in place and has about 6-10" of adjustments.

I like mine level for best fuel mileage. I'm not sure it makes a difference,but in my mind it seems like it would.
Already made that adjustment, TV is a non lifted Dodge 4X4 that sits 57" to the top of the bed empty! To have the recommend 6" between bed and Trailer my pin is perfect.
I now need to work on the trailer height, I only wish it were that easy!
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:47 PM   #8
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I raised my montana 2 and 1/2 inches with blocks under springs. I used 1 and 3/4 steel plate cut 2 and 1/2 inches thick, new center and ubolts. Have pulled about 20,000 miles with two torque checks on ubolts. I also have a dodge diesel 4by4. Made it ride a little nose low which I like.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:32 PM   #9
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Ultimately level but, with these new tow rigs it takes alot more work to get it all level. 1-2" is not going to matter, maybe more so on a shortbed truck. The more level you are the less strain on the axles or so my dealer says.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:06 AM   #10
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I set mine up so that it is as level as possible when it is all loaded up and ready to go. The main reason for me is so that if I have to stop at night while I am traveling, I can just find a level parking lot and sleep the night without feeling like I am going to roll out of bed without having to unhook from the truck.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman View Post
Ultimately level but, with these new tow rigs it takes alot more work to get it all level. 1-2" is not going to matter, maybe more so on a shortbed truck. The more level you are the less strain on the axles or so my dealer says.
That is correct, you don't want to be odd by much, if off by much one axle and set of tires will carry more of the load than the other. This could lead to tire and bearing failure if too extreme.

Level is best, it is sometimes just hard to get there!
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:23 PM   #12
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Weight

So loaded unit for first maiden voage, also added 65 gallon tank to back of truck ahead of fifth wheel, along with full water tnak on trailer and all gear, weights as follows:

Steer axle:4320
Drive axle:5580
Front traielr axle:3700
Rear Trailer axle:3500
Total weight of : 17100

So based on these reading too much 5th wheel weight, drop the water tank and I get :
Steer:3999
Drive: 5258

1997 Dodge 2500 diesel w camper package

This gives me a pin weight of 1916lbs, based on forward trailer axle weight I need think I need to raise front of trailer about 1-2 inches like my old one to get even trailer axle weights and hopefully take some off the truck.

Ran 200 miles at 62 mph and got 11.8 MPG, seemed a little low but I am pushing only 185 HP in the older truck, put pulled in OD whole trip.

For a super lite 275sbh with an advertised pin weight of 1335 I am all but positive I do not have 600 lbs in the front storage area, anyone have thoughts? Raise it, lower it, or call it good?
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:43 AM   #13
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what were your axle weights on trailer when you dropped water ?

Might consider going up one hole on pinbox or hitch which ever is least amount of rise if you want to be picky.

200 lbs on axle is really very little and can be worked around by load placement. Base final adjustment on whether or not You usually run with a full water tank(assuming it is ahead of axles). JMO
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:14 PM   #14
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axle weights on trailer were with fullwater in trailer, only water dropped was the 65 gallons on truck in box, so with 45 gallons water centered over axle would be even less on both axles on trailer, need to shift weight to back of trailer for sure
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