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Old 07-05-2012, 07:18 AM   #1
strokendiesel002
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Installing wheel chocks for motorcycles in Raptor

Hey folks! I would like to install the flush mount style Click image for larger version

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With an etrack system there are more parts to keep track of, so I'd prefer to go flush mount as I have in my previous trailers, but there is also a little more versatility with the etrack, so either is acceptable.

The raptor is a '12 3912LEV with the "arctic package". The front half of the garage's undercarage is supposedly insulated... it at least has the laminated cardboard from what I can see.

What type of insulation is used between the floor and the laminated sheets underneath? (of course, I want to install the mounts in the forward section of the garage, where the floor is covered and there are tanks).

Has anyone done this on this rig, if so, any pics to share of the undercarriage, tips, etc? Maybe better yet, does anyone have a drawing with the layout of the tanks and accessories that are hidden beneath the floor?

Thanks in advance!

Jimmy
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:36 AM   #2
randy69
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Toy box guarge under carriage lev 361

I have a 12' garage. No insulation by the way. I had installed additional 10 floor tie downs and a bracket for a removable wheel chalk for a harley. Procedures for removing wax cover cardboard. Draw a straight line on cardboard by the wall that separates garage and living area. Remove foam and screws. Support door ramp end of cardboard with something. Before you cut your marked line check for any type of wires. Cut cardboard, ok now you can install what you need in the floor. You will need to buy angle stock aluminum or steel to put where you made the cut. Mount this to inside of trailer frame and screw cardboard into angle and replace all screws. Spray Foam all cracks. Done
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:35 PM   #3
Whitehouse
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I've owned 2 different Raptors (06-3612 & 09-380LEV). The type of insulation on my 2006 3612 was typical rolled insulation you can buy from Lowes or HD. Its typically located between the tanks and the coroplast. Once you have removed the coroplast you may want to add more insulation and insulate & heat trace your tanks and water lines.
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:40 PM   #4
Whitehouse
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I should have added that it will all be clear for what you need to do, once you start removing the coroplast. Sorry I don't have any pics but over on the toyhauler section of RV.net I believe there are a few pics with what your looking for.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:36 AM   #5
strokendiesel002
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Awesome advice! Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:30 AM   #6
randy69
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WhiteHouse

I could kick my butt for not puting insulation under the 12' toybox floor. On another note My F 350 4x4 SWD. is a 2009 with 7,600 on it. Doesn't pull faster than 40 or 45 going up steep grades. Such as Cohone Pass or the Grapevine. Yes I'am fully loaded Water,Gas, 2 80cc and 1 350 Grizzle quad and 1 125cc and 250cc bikes. and all the other camping stuff BBQ, rugs, matts ect. And four adults in cab. Question how does yours perform. I'm thinking it could be Califorina smog Cramp that's on that 6.4 Desel.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:29 PM   #7
tileman
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I just installed the Risk racing setup for our 3 motocross bikes had to remove the back fuel tank and a few more things to get it to bolt in right.

I just took a lots of pics as I took stuff off so I could put it back in the right spot.

A few guys were like just use lag bolts. But I have seen them fail and used real bolts and nuts and added more support under the wood as the bolts came out.

It took me about 10hr in all to do this work I work slow LOL But just came back from a 1,100 mile trip and bikes held on great.





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Old 07-13-2012, 11:16 PM   #8
randy69
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Tileman

Great looking job..
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:32 PM   #9
old racer
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Here are some pics of what we did on our 325 SRX. Didn't want to permanently mount the wheel chock soit could be removed for extra space. It is simply strapped towards the rear. Bike is strapped both directions so the chock cannot move. Got the tie down rails from JP Cycles. Able to remove the hooks and use an air mattress or ???. Recently made the trip to S. Dakota with this and no issues.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:24 PM   #10
Whitehouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy69 View Post
I could kick my butt for not puting insulation under the 10' toybox floor. On another note My F 350 4x4 SWD. is a 2009 with 7,600 on it. Doesn't pull faster than 40 or 45 going up steep grades. Such as Cohone Pass or the Grapevine. Yes I'am fully loaded Water,Gas, 2 80cc and 1 350 Grizzle quad and 1 125cc and 250cc bikes. and all the other camping stuff BBQ, rugs, matts ect. And four adults in cab. Question how does yours perform. I'm thinking it could be Califorina smog Cramp that's on that 6.4 Desel.
Ive "modified" mine a bit. Pulls so much better & gets better mpg thzn before. Between 2-4Mpg. Set the cruise at 72mph the other day going over a hilly pass nearby & to my surprise it held it at that speed.

No emission tests in MT. A lot of people install the delete kit & add a tuner. Better mpg too and able to pull hills better. Eventually we will have smog test like most of the country .
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:42 AM   #11
Karlb
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my new to me 297se came with 3 pingle chocks mounted back on the dove tail section of the garage (guess the prev owner turned their dirt bikes around and hauled them facing rearward) and soon I will be installing a couple pit bull trailer restraint systems for my street bikes as I use them currently in my little 6x12 cargo and really like a strapless system for my bikes 2008 K1200GT and 2010 S1000RR will use one of the pingles for my wr250r though when it goes along. when I do the install I plan to insulate the bottom of the garage and will take lots of pics of the install.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:06 AM   #12
strokendiesel002
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Red face Sorry

I haven't replied sooner! What a great bunch of information and tips, I thank you all. The rig is headed to Sturgis on Saturday, so I'll probably set it up on Friday. My mother took it for a week long trip when I was planning on working on it... she got home last weekend and is leaving this weekend... She doesn't seem to understand that now that I'm 28 married, and work 55-60 hrs a week I can't pull all nighters and just catch up on sleep over the next few days

Frustration aside, I'll definately take pics of how it turns out and the process!
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:27 PM   #13
mrxlh
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If you are trying to keep it simple, here is what I did.









$85 in materials from lowes. (I already had the chocks) Add $40 per chock from harbor freight.

1ea. 3/4" 4'X8' oak plywood
2ea. 2"x6"X8'
24ea. #12x3" FH wood screws
4ea. 3/8"x1-1/2" elevator bolts (extra large flat head carrage bolt)
1ea. 1500lb flush mount anchor
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:58 PM   #14
strokendiesel002
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Lightbulb

What a great idea and pics! That is what I'll likely do for this trip as I can't get what I want by Saturday am
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:56 PM   #15
strokendiesel002
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I kept it simple. I bought 2 chocks from H.F. and just set them in place. It was really hot out and I was too lazy to get my phone from the truck to take but as soon as the hauler gets back from Sturgis, I'll load it up and snap a few shots.

What I learned about these chocks is the front end actually lifts up when removing the bike from it, so I wrapped a strap around the very front of each and secured it to the tiedown rings in the floor of the hauler. I then hooked 4 straps to each bike and they were good to go! I went lower, rather than higher on the frames to avoid having to compress the suspension as much. When you strap lower and go out at 30-45degrees you can get them very secure without worry of blowing seals.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:12 AM   #16
mullermama
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wheek chock

nice set up thanks for the pics
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