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Old 09-17-2018, 06:56 AM   #61
Moneyslinger
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The big plus of the PI surge protector (as I see it) is that is has a readout which shows, the input voltage, how many amps are being drawn, and shows an error code if there is a problem. I prefer this quantiative information over status lights on most other surge protectors. Having the amp draw readout helped me diagnose problems with my fridge. It also acts as a reminder when the aircon is running, the hot water is heating up and the fridge is trying to cool on electric, not to try to use the microwave or we'll likely pop the breaker at the pedestal. When the above three items are running, we are drawing about 26 amps which is very close to the maximum (30A system).

Also, I'm not very keen on a cord solution that requires an extra step during setup/pack-up and something else that has to be secured against theft.
From go to whoa, my wife and I can setup our TT in about 10 minutes and we resist adding extra steps that complicate the process and extend the time. This is important when it's 100+ degrees and 90+ % humidity outside!
You just sold me on the permanent option. A bit more work – ONE TIME – to put in place, accurate run-time info, and never have to set up again or worry about rain or theft...and it's cheaper.

How to:
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:19 AM   #62
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PI was just sold to another company and they are now manufacturing in Mexico from what I heard. I was hoping to hear from someone who actually had used one of the Camco units. Thanks
FYI, I looked at the link provided by Snoking in post 46 and then at the on-line catalog link at the bottom of the page. It still says "Made in USA". So at least for the moment, it is still made here.
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:37 AM   #63
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A PS to my previous post. Yes it was a bit more work the first time but mine fit right behind and below the existing fuse panel so was very convenient to install and if I should ever desire to remove it a put in a diff RV is easy to remove and put things back to original if desired.
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:46 AM   #64
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"Energy absorption/dissipation - This rating, given in joules, tells you how much energy the surge protector can absorb before it fails. A higher number indicates greater protection."
A joule is a unit of measure for energy in the metric (SI) system. It was named after a Scottish brewer who did the groundbreaking work on the equivalence between mechanical work and heat. His work eventually led to the law of conservation of energy.

A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard (more exactly, a one newton object raised one meter). There are 1.6 million joules in 1 kilowatt-hour of electric energy.

A watt is one joule transferred per second; a watt is the rate of doing work (or transferring energy).

So, as Snoking said, the greater the amount of joules your device can handle, the larger the transient that can be "absorbed" by the protective device without harming the electronics plugged into the system.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:28 AM   #65
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A joule is a unit of measure for energy in the metric (SI) system. It was named after a Scottish brewer who did the groundbreaking work on the equivalence between mechanical work and heat. His work eventually led to the law of conservation of energy.

A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard (more exactly, a one newton object raised one meter). There are 1.6 million joules in 1 kilowatt-hour of electric energy.

A watt is one joule transferred per second; a watt is the rate of doing work (or transferring energy).

So, as Snoking said, the greater the amount of joules your device can handle, the larger the transient that can be "absorbed" by the protective device without harming the electronics plugged into the system.
Being a Scottish brewer, are you sure it wasn't lifting one pint of Guinness?
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:49 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by SummitPond View Post
A joule is a unit of measure for energy in the metric (SI) system. It was named after a Scottish brewer who did the groundbreaking work on the equivalence between mechanical work and heat. His work eventually led to the law of conservation of energy.

A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard (more exactly, a one newton object raised one meter). There are 1.6 million joules in 1 kilowatt-hour of electric energy.

A watt is one joule transferred per second; a watt is the rate of doing work (or transferring energy).

So, as Snoking said, the greater the amount of joules your device can handle, the larger the transient that can be "absorbed" by the protective device without harming the electronics plugged into the system.
And as Paul Harvey said, "now you know the rest of the story!".
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:06 AM   #67
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"A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard"

Also known as the Burger King principle.... Or was it the "with cheese concept"???

I forget so much important stuff <sigh>
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Old 09-18-2018, 05:26 AM   #68
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My 50amp PI hard wired unit has saved me several times in the 7yrs of ownership on several rigs, once was at Pala RV in No San Diego which had just opened and had 1st full capacity weekend with 100 deg f ambient the PI alarmed and disconnected from shorepower. I checked pedestal with Fluke MM and found 103VAC which was what the EMS was showing went to neighbor who had big $$ DP asked if he was effected and he had no protection, checked his pedestal same condition notified Pala who sent maintenace by and verified low voltage condition. We ended up staying but ran our generator during peak load but I sure heard alot of ACs on neighbouring RVs laboring under low voltage. It turned out SDG&E (utility) had underestimated the load profile on design and needed to replace pad mounted transformers to correct at alater time. I wonder how many of the 100 other RVrs without EMS had a/c or appliance premature failures as a result and never knew why. Utilities are required to meet IEEE electrical requirements and are responsible for damages to customer equipment when not meeting them but you have to be aware of the problem and document to file a succesful claim. Happy Camping and good luck with your choice of protection.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:47 PM   #69
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send pic of what your surge chain security method looks like. [email protected]
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:16 PM   #70
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As I mentioned in earlier post I use the progressive protector portable unit. I had one toast on me in Arizona last winter and it was a quick change out with another brand until they shipped me a new unit. Easy to deal with and required not sending old one in. Just took a couple of pictures is all it took. Great people to work with...
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:17 PM   #71
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send pic of what your surge chain security method looks like. [email protected]
Mine is the center of the trailer secure by two 6/3 with ground cables, and a RJ-11 phone cable. Chris
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:52 AM   #72
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Here is how I mounted the PI remote display in the new Laredo, first picture and the 5th wheel second picture. Chris
Snorking, How did you run the RJ11 from the display to the surge protector? I thought all the existing wiring would be in the underbelly but no such luck.
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:26 AM   #73
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Snorking, How did you run the RJ11 from the display to the surge protector? I thought all the existing wiring would be in the underbelly but no such luck.
In both of our trailers the PI unit is below the control panel. So all I had to do was shake the phone cable down the wall chase with the other cables. Chris
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:48 PM   #74
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In both of our trailers the PI unit is below the control panel. So all I had to do was shake the phone cable down the wall chase with the other cables. Chris
Wish mine was that easy. I ended up going through the floor with the #6 cable. Across the underbelly, up between my fresh water tank and gray tank, up through the floor under the tub, through the wall with the shower plumbing and up to the control panel. Thanks for the response.
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:35 PM   #75
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Oh, and I called ECS Premier to find out how long the back log was expect. Talked with Jennifer and she told me they were discontinued and their store wouldn't be stocking them in the future. Back to the drawing board!
If you haven't made a EMS purchase yet, ECS Premier has the EMS-LCHW30 in stock again, still listed at $329.99, on sale for $299.99 and on clearance for $99.99.

Apparently Jennifer wasn't completely informed ??? Anyway, if you're still looking, ECS Premier has them for less than half the price of any other dealer that I've found.
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:18 PM   #76
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If you haven't made a EMS purchase yet, ECS Premier has the EMS-LCHW30 in stock again, still listed at $329.99, on sale for $299.99 and on clearance for $99.99.

Apparently Jennifer wasn't completely informed ??? Anyway, if you're still looking, ECS Premier has them for less than half the price of any other dealer that I've found.
218.99 at Tweetys.com. Free shipping.
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Old 11-19-2018, 02:41 PM   #77
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218.99 at Tweetys.com. Free shipping.
$99.99 at ECS Premier with $8 shipping.... That's a savings of $111 at ECS (if you're in the market for a 30 amp system.
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:20 PM   #78
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Do you happen to have the Link?
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:24 PM   #79
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Do you happen to have the Link?
http://www.ecspremier.com/30-Amp-Har...HW30_p_47.html
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:48 AM   #80
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Any sales on the one with the remote display? Am I incorrect in my assessment that this model doesn't have it? How big of a deal is that? I guess it all depends on where i mount it correct?
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