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11-03-2015, 06:16 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chesapeake VA.
Posts: 9
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hot water tank winterized
I winterized our Sprinter 5th wheel this weekend and when I pulled the plug from the hot water tank it had a rod with a diode . My previous camper was a Jayco and its water heater only had a plastic plug . the problem is when I pulled the rod out it seemed to be eroded and there was flakes in the water coming out. how often should this diode be replaced ? this is a brand new 5er.
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2011 f250 ccsb 6.7 ps
2015 SPRINTER 269FWRLS
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11-03-2015, 06:28 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 311
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Depending on how much the rod is eroded you can usually go 2 years without changing. The factory one lasted me a year. The replacement aluminum one from CW is almost 2 years old and it looks fine. I lightly sand mine every fall when I winterize.
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2014 F250 SWD 6.7 CC
2014 Alpine 3500RE
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11-03-2015, 06:33 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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First of all, it's an ANODE rod (diodes are electronic components). Atwood water heaters have a "bi metal" tank and don't require an anode., The only have a plastic drain plug. Suburban water heaters have a "porcelain coated" tank and do require an anode rod. The anode rod is incorporated in the drain plug. Your Jayco apparently had an Atwood water heater and your current trailer has a Suburban water heater.
Your water heater instruction manual addresses when to change an anode rod. Most of us change it out at the end of the season (if it is eroded beyond about 50%) and start with a "new, fresh rod" in the spring when we dewinterize.
The purpose of the anode rod is to protect your porcelain coated tank from corrosion. The rod is made of magnesium or aluminum and is "sacrificial" in that it will erode, saving the more expensive tank. The "factory anode" is normally magnesium. Depending on the water in your area, you may find that the magnesium anode rod will erode very rapidly. If it does, the factory recommends that you change to an aluminum anode rod. Usually the aluminum rod will not erode as rapidly.
All of this information is in your owner's manual. If you don't have the Suburban water heater manual, you can download it online at the Suburban site. If you can't find it online, let us know and we'll locate the link for you.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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11-03-2015, 11:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Montana
Posts: 102
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From all the research I have done on when to replace the ANODE rod, they say it all depends on the quality of your water you use. Some water can destroy the rod in two or three months, others can last six, twelve months or more. This is also coupled with how often you use the rig and have water in the heater.
But, I've been told to watch your water quality most. I spent several weeks researching this to make sure.
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2006 Doge Ram w/5.9 diesel - 2007 37' Copper Canyon w/5000 watt Honda Genset and Direct TV Kings Quest portable.
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11-04-2015, 11:18 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 639
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my last trip of the year is coming up this weekend and I plan on pulling mine out and checking it out. I have a spare on backup courtesy of amazon. I have no idea what mine will look like but why not keep a spare when its like 15$!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00
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2014 Ram 3500 Cummins, Limited, Longbed, CC. Every option but the Aisin. Airbags.
The Toy Trifecta:
2021 Keystone Montana 3854BR all options +Onan
2021 Malibu 23 LSV
2017 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS SE
2019 Can AM Maverick X3 Turbo XRS
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11-04-2015, 02:32 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: B.C
Posts: 1,399
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I'm on well water and I've changed mine twice. Did I really need too? Not really as they weren't that bad and not even close to the core but for the cost of a rod compared to the cost of a new tank it's worth the few bucks
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2010 Keystone Cougar 25 RL.
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11-09-2015, 08:33 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: west kelowna BC
Posts: 62
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Not to hijack this thread, but has anyone found that on there anode there is a slimy coating on it, some times almost looks like frog eggs. I have bleached the water system several times to no avail, our last TT did this also, we don't drink the water in the trailer, should I be concerned?
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2013 Cougar TT, 28RBS.
Kipor 2600 Watt for the coffee.....
2008 Dodge-Ram 3500SRW CCLB 4x4, 6.7 cummins 230,000 Kms.
Previous RV 1997 Kit Companion 22ST
1977 Bonair tent trailer.
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11-09-2015, 08:42 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm1401
Not to hijack this thread, but has anyone found that on there anode there is a slimy coating on it, some times almost looks like frog eggs. I have bleached the water system several times to no avail, our last TT did this also, we don't drink the water in the trailer, should I be concerned?
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No problem, that's the way an anode rod looks in most water supplies. If you pull the rod, let it dry and examine it, you'll see that those "frog eggs" will have dried and turned white. That's the corrosive "protection" the anode is "sacrificing" to "save" the water heater tank from corrosion.
If you think your RV anode looks "ugly", when you get time, try to get your home water heater anode rod out of the tank. (You'll probably need an impact wrench to break it loose)... Your home anode will probably look "ugly enough" that you'll want to bathe in bottled water. Just remember, bottled water would problaby do the same thing to the anode if you could pump it into your house or RV water system.
I wouldn't worry about the appearance of the anode, just be sure there's enough "sacrificial metal" remaining to keep your tank protected until the next time you check.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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11-09-2015, 09:06 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: west kelowna BC
Posts: 62
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Thank you so much for the reply, man I love this forum, good people with real experience, appreciated, thanks again.
__________________
2013 Cougar TT, 28RBS.
Kipor 2600 Watt for the coffee.....
2008 Dodge-Ram 3500SRW CCLB 4x4, 6.7 cummins 230,000 Kms.
Previous RV 1997 Kit Companion 22ST
1977 Bonair tent trailer.
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11-09-2015, 09:07 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm1401
Not to hijack this thread, but has anyone found that on there anode there is a slimy coating on it, some times almost looks like frog eggs. I have bleached the water system several times to no avail, our last TT did this also, we don't drink the water in the trailer, should I be concerned?
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My first thought is that the slimy coating is caused by bacteria reacting with the anode in your heater. There are some kinds of "slime-forming" bacteria present in water from certain areas. I would switch to a different type of anode and see if you notice any improvement and also make sure that your HW tank is completely flushed out after you drain it. There may be some sediment in the bottom that is contributing to the problem.
If you are concerned about the water quality in your HW tank, you might consider taking a sample of water from the HW tank to Public Health and get it tested for bacteria and other creepy crawlies. If you sanitize your FW tank on a regular basis, you shouldn't have any issues with bacteria.
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2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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11-09-2015, 09:41 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: west kelowna BC
Posts: 62
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Me and my family have been drinking the tap water for as long as I can remember, never had a problem, our TT fresh water tank almost always gets fillled from our tap water, but I like the idea of the water testing, I will do that in the spring, I have already winterized our TT. Thanks for the advise.
__________________
2013 Cougar TT, 28RBS.
Kipor 2600 Watt for the coffee.....
2008 Dodge-Ram 3500SRW CCLB 4x4, 6.7 cummins 230,000 Kms.
Previous RV 1997 Kit Companion 22ST
1977 Bonair tent trailer.
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11-10-2015, 06:14 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Livermore Ca.
Posts: 138
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I just took mine out and it was almost gone. When I took it out white stuff was in the bottom of the tank. I just used my garden hose with a jet nozzle and shot water in there to wash it out. Replaced the rod and left what water in the tank that didn't come out.I did however forget to blow out the toilet so i have to go to the storage yard and bring it back home
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11-10-2015, 06:23 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,037
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http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-anodes.html
Check these pictures out. not the length we use but you can see a new versus an old rod. Basically the same as ours HWH. also a good read on this page.
randy
__________________
Randy "Camp On"
2011 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ford F-350, 6.7L 4X4, CC, SRW
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11-10-2015, 07:38 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 639
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I just took mine out for inspection and winterization and after four months of trailer usage it looked pretty new. It was a little slimy. Blowing out the tank with a jet certainly got a little debris out but seems to be working as designed. I got a wand off amazon that did the trick for blasting it out.
__________________
2014 Ram 3500 Cummins, Limited, Longbed, CC. Every option but the Aisin. Airbags.
The Toy Trifecta:
2021 Keystone Montana 3854BR all options +Onan
2021 Malibu 23 LSV
2017 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS SE
2019 Can AM Maverick X3 Turbo XRS
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11-15-2015, 04:33 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Montana
Posts: 102
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They do make a nozzle that you can put on your hose to flush out your water heater. You can get them at CW or most RV places for about ten bucks or so. Handy to have.
__________________
2006 Doge Ram w/5.9 diesel - 2007 37' Copper Canyon w/5000 watt Honda Genset and Direct TV Kings Quest portable.
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