dometic refrigerator issues

[wiredgeorge]

Wife went out to camper to start setting up for our trip this weekend. My Dometic RV2652 refrigerator has worked fine and was working fine last time I was in the camper; perhaps a week or two. The freezer was defrosted and my wife got things cleaned up.

Hooked up to 30V supply with Progressive EMS hanging off the pole outlet. No faults. The 12V inside light was working in the fridge and the fridge was still set on "automatic". Switched off automatic to propane and got no fault light. Took the cover off the part where the thermal fuse connects and it is a bit warm although not real hot. I did make sure the 120V breakers where not popped.

The fridge isn't cooling on propane and while I pulled the 120V plug to test, there isn't room for meter probes. The plug doesn't have the cable coming out the back but comes straight down due lack of room. I can probably plug it in again. Since we are now enjoying daylight savings time, ran out of light.

Battery good 13.2VDC so converter working fine. All other systems fine. Any help would be appreciated. I didn't have time to test continuity on the thermal fuse or remove the board off the front but since the idiot lights are working, guess it is OK (12V in anyway). wg

[RV Vacation]

Howdy, some food for thought. RV refrigerators need good ventilation and hot sun on the refrigerator side of the RV can/will create operation efficiency problems.

Worse case scenario you have lost the gas in the cooling system on your fridge.

If I might ask, does the propane flame lite and remain lit? You familiar with adjusting the temperature for RV units.

We had a fridge with the control panel on the right hand door. That darn panel would jar loose an need pushed back in.

Last but not least, you have a friend in "YouTube" that can answer most problems associated with RV refrigeration.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Temp...cy4Kf3VQ,st:95

I hope the link works OK. My internet.(Verizon Orbic) sucks at best so I could not test.

[JRTJH]

I'm guessing you don't see any yellowish powder either in the freezer, refrigerator or behind the refrigerator on the cooling unit or on the floor of the backside of the refrigerator and you have not smelled any ammonia odors around the unit ????? If you have, it may be time for a new/rebuilt cooling unit.

If you haven't seen or smelled anything above, then the first thing to check is the 12 volt fuse in the power center. It supplies 12 VDC to the control board behind the refrigerator. Next, pull the lower vent cover, remove the black plastic cover from the control board and check the two "glass cartridge fuses" mounted on the control board. One is for 12 volt/propane operation and one is for 120volt/electric operation. If either is blown, replace and retry. If that doesn't fix it, post back and we can go from there.....

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm guessing you don't see any yellowish powder either in the freezer, refrigerator or behind the refrigerator on the cooling unit or on the floor of the backside of the refrigerator and you have not smelled any ammonia odors around the unit ????? If you have, it may be time for a new/rebuilt cooling unit.

If you haven't seen or smelled anything above, then the first thing to check is the 12 volt fuse in the power center. It supplies 12 VDC to the control board behind the refrigerator. Next, pull the lower vent cover, remove the black plastic cover from the control board and check the two "glass cartridge fuses" mounted on the control board. One is for 12 volt/propane operation and one is for 120volt/electric operation. If either is blown, replace and retry. If that doesn't fix it, post back and we can go from there.....

The control board you refer to is the one at the rear on the bottom/left in a rectangular plastic cover? Will take a look when I get a chance tomorrow. Thanks

I so have the manual for the refrigerator up in my shop... hopefully that will pinpoint these fuses.

[JRTJH]

Yep, that's the location. When you remove the plastic cover, you'll see the two glass fuses on the control board. If your control board has been replaced in the past, it may have one "modern plastic fuse and one glass fuse or even two plastic fuses"... Dinosaur upgraded their boards and a couple other aftermarket manufacturers also started using all "plastic plug in fuses" since the glass fuses are getting so hard to find (thanks for closing, Radio Shack).....

Remember, if the refrigerator is plugged in, there's 120 volts AC on that control board, even if the refrigerator is turned off, so be careful where you poke your fingers while changing those fuses !!!!!

[wiredgeorge]

Well, in full daylight, yellow stains from refrigerant are visible; cooling unit shot. New one paid for and on the way. about $1200 including freight. Ouch. Camping trip gone for this coming weekend! Next step is to youtube myself with videos on how to pull the fridge out.

[chuckster57]

Have you check JC refrigeration?

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

I have installed numerous and can say they are excellent.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Have you check JC refrigeration?

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

I have installed numerous and can say they are excellent.

Thanks; already purchased a Dometic unit and wish I had seen this site prior but I do trust Dometic as well. Just a bit more expensive. I am going to pull the refrigerator in the next couple days. Thanks!

[wiredgeorge]

Refrigerator pulled. Waiting on new cooling unit coming from manufacturer via freight. Want to change the electrical plug as it is a standard RV blade type. There are two 12ga. white coax cables going into the old one. With only the refrigerator plugged into the outlet, the other must be going out to some other outlet. Any idea what that might be? Can't easily trace the coax going out since it exits the refrigerator box. It isn't the microwave as I rewired that thing from the distro panel directly to an outside (on the back of the camper) outlet.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Refrigerator pulled. Waiting on new cooling unit coming from manufacturer via freight. Want to change the electrical plug as it is a standard RV blade type. There are two 12ga. white coax cables going into the old one. With only the refrigerator plugged into the outlet, the other must be going out to some other outlet. Any idea what that might be? Can't easily trace the coax going out since it exits the refrigerator box. It isn't the microwave as I rewired that thing from the distro panel directly to an outside (on the back of the camper) outlet.

12 Guage white coax cables? Can you post a picture of that?

[JRTJH]

I think he means 12 ga ROMEX cable. If I remember correctly, RVIA requires a "dedicated circuit" for the refrigerator. That requirement may not have been a requirement back when George's trailer was built...

Anyway, I'm guessing it isn't 12 ga coax, but is 12 ga ROMEX.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Refrigerator pulled. Waiting on new cooling unit coming from manufacturer via freight. Want to change the electrical plug as it is a standard RV blade type. There are two 12ga. white coax cables going into the old one. With only the refrigerator plugged into the outlet, the other must be going out to some other outlet. Any idea what that might be? Can't easily trace the coax going out since it exits the refrigerator box. It isn't the microwave as I rewired that thing from the distro panel directly to an outside (on the back of the camper) outlet.

Could you not just leave the wire going downstream (use a meter to find the live one) disconnected then use an outlet tester to quickly run through them to see what's hot or not? Turn on the AC appliances to check them. Shouldn't take a couple of minutes.

[wiredgeorge]

White 12ga ROMEX (mea culpa). I am not sure there are any other "appliances on 120V downstream. The rec center is on its own breaker and the microwave wiring has been relocated to an all weather connector on the back of the trailer.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Could you not just leave the wire going downstream (use a meter to find the live one) disconnected then use an outlet tester to quickly run through them to see what's hot or not? Turn on the AC appliances to check them. Shouldn't take a couple of minutes.

I guess the RV outlet would have to come off and the wire(s) removed from the blades. I am going to replace the outlet anyway so will probably do that tomorrow. There is an outlet on the other side of the cabinets (pantry) that the wire may be going to. With DST, it is getting a tad dark to be turning off the power.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I guess the RV outlet would have to come off and the wire(s) removed from the blades. I am going to replace the outlet anyway so will probably do that tomorrow. There is an outlet on the other side of the cabinets (pantry) that the wire may be going to. With DST, it is getting a tad dark to be turning off the power.

I would turn all the breakers off except for the fridge. Then go around and check the outlets. If no outlets are live then see if anything else that's 120 vac like the television works. If that doesn't reveal anything then it's time to get out the non-contact voltage detector out and start digging.

For me, the older I get the less inquisitive so I would be concerned, especially if it means getting on my knees to look around.

[RV Vacation]

FYI

My refrigerator (residential) circuit is tied into the same GFI receptacle located behind my TV.

[JRTJH]

Current RVIA rules, as I understand them, require a "single outlet refrigerator circuit". Those rules were not in effect in 2002 when your Cougar was built. So, it's possible that they "daisy-chained" another outlet to the refrigerator.

Looking at the floorplan, I'd suspect there may be an exterior outlet somewhere on the patio side of the trailer, probably behind the axles, along the sidewall. Mine is just aft of the lower refrigerator vent.

If you do have an exterior outlet, just turn the refrigerator circuit breaker on and verify power at both outlets, then turn the the circuit breaker off and verify both are "dead"....

My guess is that's where the second ROMEX is wired.

[Domino3665]

Quick tip:
Consult the “University of YouTube.”
(that’s what I call it.) ��

[B-O-B'03]

My fridge is daisy chained from the GFIC outlet in the bath and then to the outlet on the outside wall of the under awning area.

Could be the same for yours?

The other outlets are on the rec/conv breaker ( receptacle/converter)

-Brian

[Alibaddy]

We have a 2021 Alpine 360 RL. The refrigerator and the outlet in the bathroom are on the same circuit. We discovered this because the in the bathroom is a GFI and when it tripped the refrigerator went off. I was surprised to see that the RVIA requires a dedicated outlet for the refrigerator.