Dometic Fridge & Leveling

SimonTuffGuy · 07-11-2023, 10:08 AM

I've searched a bit here on the forums... I've read through some of the Facebook groups... And I figured I'd start by just starting a new thread for some input.

2016 Keystone Hideout 24BHWE. I have a (was I'm fairly certain is a) Dometic DM2652. The fridge has an off and off button and a gas button with an auto and a check light.

I bought the trailer from a friend of mine a few weeks ago, put it in the yard out back and plugged it into the house. The fridge and freezer both worked fine and was keeping several drinks cool with no issues. I unplugged the camper and moved it and it has not properly cooled since then.

I've read about leveling and how important it is. I have stick on levels on the side of the camper from the PO that feel somewhat inaccurate. So, I threw a level on the back bumper and then right inside the entrance door. Should I be throwing a level in the fridge itself and making sure it's fine specifically there? From the floor, it looks level... and if I measure from the counter top by the range, it looks just a hair off (compared to the floor).

The light works when I open the door, so I feel like I have power. Next up is fuses in the access panel on the back of the unit?

I'm envisioning that this is a simple fix. I feel like I'm level (or as level as I'm going to get it)... but it's frustrating too.

Appreciate any input.

SimonTuffGuy · 07-11-2023, 10:27 AM

I had attempted to fire it off on gas too. I'm thinking that when I did try that... I either wasn't level enough OR I had air in the line from swapping tanks after having them both refilled. I'd like to effort that again when I get home and then check the fuses that are mentioned in the manual.

Kirk's Keystone Outback. · 07-11-2023, 10:28 AM

Assuming you reset the On/Off switch and is in AUTO mode while not using LP. I imagine it has to be extreme out of level to not work. I've been a 1/4 to 1/2 off the level bubble and had no issues.

Kirk's Keystone Outback. · 07-11-2023, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SimonTuffGuy

I had attempted to fire it off on gas too. I'm thinking that when I did try that... I either wasn't level enough OR I had air in the line from swapping tanks after having them both refilled. I'd like to effort that again when I get home and then check the fuses that are mentioned in the manual.

If you're trying it on gas mode and haven't properly bled the LP lines using a stove burner, it may take several attempts to light off. Verify good gas flow on the stove first, then try the fridge. Also reset the switch to clear any fault.

SimonTuffGuy · 07-11-2023, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirk's Keystone Outback.

Assuming you reset the On/Off switch and is in AUTO mode while not using LP. I imagine it has to be extreme out of level to not work. I've been a 1/4 to 1/2 off the level bubble and had no issues.

Yup, I've cycled the buttons off and on, disconnected and reconnected shore power. The light inside the fridge works. The lights for on/auto work fine... just no cooling.

I'm feeling it's going to end up being the fuse when I look at it again. There's no way that I was more level my first time unhitching (having zero idea what I was doing), to what I've made an effort to having it level now when I brought it back home after moving it.

I was just trying to make sure of just how picky it was (or how extremely lucky I got my first time, lol).

Appreciate your reply. I'll update once I check the fuse.

Canonman · 07-11-2023, 11:33 AM

When I first set up our Cougar, I used a level like this:https://www.etrailer.com/Hand-Tools/...CABEgKqPfD_BwE in the fridge. I adjusted the left right fore and aft on the trailer until the level was dead on. I then used a 3' level across the floor in the living area both side to side and fore/aft to confirm the trailer was indeed level with the fridge.I then installed a couple of small bubble levels on the outside of the Cougar just to make things easier when setting up.
An easy process that may help.

**chuckster57** · 07-11-2023, 11:36 AM

Rv absorption refers need to be within 3 degrees of level for best performance. If you level the floor, you can be fairly certain that the fridge is within specs.

Old_Stevenick · 07-11-2023, 03:30 PM

Check the pilot light area from the outside of the RV, I had a spider web in mine once and it wouldn't light.

bobbecky · 07-11-2023, 04:19 PM

If running it on gas, you need a solid 12 volts coming from the battery, otherwise, the igniter will not light the flame, even though you might still see a light on in the fridge.

Dave727 · 07-11-2023, 07:42 PM

Keep in mind absorption refrigerators can take quite a while to cool down to operating temperature. The freezer cools down first and then the refrigerator section follows. Ambient air temperature plays a role too. Try turning it on, let it run over night, and check it the next day.

**JRTJH** · 07-12-2023, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SimonTuffGuy

Yup, I've cycled the buttons off and on, disconnected and reconnected shore power. The light inside the fridge works. The lights for on/auto work fine... just no cooling.

I'm feeling it's going to end up being the fuse when I look at it again. There's no way that I was more level my first time unhitching (having zero idea what I was doing), to what I've made an effort to having it level now when I brought it back home after moving it.

I was just trying to make sure of just how picky it was (or how extremely lucky I got my first time, lol).

Appreciate your reply. I'll update once I check the fuse.

There are two fuses on the control board located on the back of the refrigerator in the lower left hand corner, under a black plastic cover..... Check them as well as any 12 volt fuse in the power distribution center....

As for your statement I highlighted, you never stated that the gas flame actually lit, just that there was no cooling. If you open the inspection port on the bottom of the chimney, you can see the "blue gas flame" and on most refrigerators, you can hear the "flame burning". I'm wondering if you confirmed that the flame actually ignited and there was no cooling or if you "pushed the gas button, assumed the flame lit and there was no cooling" ???

Our refrigerators require heat to "boil" the refrigerant either from an electric heater or from a gas flame in order to "achieve cooling".

Did you confirm that the gas function actually ignited a flame that kept burning during your check to see if you had cooling ???

SimonTuffGuy · 07-12-2023, 06:25 PM

Both fuses LOOK fine, but I didn’t pull the power cord and test them. For now, I ran propane to the stove, and then cycled power with the gas button enabled.

Propane fed and looks to have lit fine. I’ll check it tomorrow morning to confirm it’s cool. I have the thermostat (a wire on the inside) nearly to the top for cooling… which is where I had it when I was running on power.

Replaced the battery with a brand new one last week (the one I bought it with was dead and it was easier to just know I replaced it with something new).

Attachments show the fuses, which again APPEAR fine (I know I need to pull them to actually test) and you can see the glow of the flame on the other.

Should any of the piping on the rear of the fridge warm up? I only had warmth from where the propane line fed into the burner area, and then up along the right hand side where it would exhaust out (if that’s the right terminology).

If it does cool until tomorrow morning… then I’ll turn it off and kill propane and see how it does from shore power alone. Assuming that doesn’t keep it cool, then I’m looking for something else? It’s just so weird that it worked seemingly fine until I moved the camper…

Also, thank you ALL for your help! I love these forums and am happy to have found it!

**chuckster57** · 07-12-2023, 06:30 PM

The chimney should be hot to the touch. The “tank” at the bottom should be fairly warm. If you can, you can take a rubber mallet and lightly tap the coils.

SimonTuffGuy · 07-13-2023, 06:21 AM

Still no cooling inside the fridge or freezer this morning. Propane is still on and burning.

The chimney is hot to the touch, but the "tank" isn't warm at all. And none of the coils leading up into the tank or after the tank are warm at all.

Attaching some pictures to confirm that I'm looking at the right things.
Attachment 1991 shows the whole area where I labeled a few things.
1993 shows the glow of the flame, but also shows that coil that looks to start everything and it looks slightly corroded.
1994 shows the bracket that holds the start of the coils, also some corrosion or whatever that yellow stuff is there? So - that coil feeds up and around and into tank.

I tapped on the coils at the bottom, at the top, and a little bit on the tank itself this morning, but didn't feel much change within the first 15~ minutes.

**chuckster57** · 07-13-2023, 09:22 AM

That yellow stuff is AMMONIA powder, DO NOT breathe or touch!!!!

Your cooling unit is no good. Dometic has a 2 yr warranty, if it’s no longer in warranty, you’ll have to pay for a replacement. I would check these guys out:

I have installed numerous units and if there is a 12V compressor style option I would go that route.

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

SimonTuffGuy · 07-13-2023, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

That yellow stuff is AMMONIA powder, DO NOT breathe or touch!!!!

Your cooling unit is no good. Dometic has a 2 yr warranty, if it’s no longer in warranty, you’ll have to pay for a replacement. I would check these guys out:

I have installed numerous units and if there is a 12V compressor style option I would go that route.

https://jc-refrigeration.com/

Argh! Well that feels like terrible luck then. This is on my 2016, so we're far out of any warranty. I appreciate the link and recommendation on that replacement cooling unit. I'll check their site and see what I'm looking at.

Fixing this by installing the replacement cooling unit is the recommended scenario here, right? If I would look at replacing it with a non-propane and AC power only, I'm limited to using it only when I'm at sites that offer full power. I would guess that there is no direct replacement that's the full correct size either.

**JRTJH** · 07-13-2023, 10:36 AM

There are a number of companies that "rebuild Dometic DM2652 cooling units" and offer them for sale for prices ranging from $425-750. Some advertise they are the "best rebuilt in the business" and others say they're better than the competition because they're "Amish built"... Whether any of that is true is based on criteria often used by the car manufacturers in their "best in class" trophy advertising....

You can also buy a "Dometic DM2652 replacement cooling unit" that is new, not rebuilt from several RV parts places. Most advertise their pricing as "shipping available" or "plus shipping"... Sometimes that's a reasonable price, sometimes shipping can cost more than the price of the actual part, so be careful of the "final price" not the "part price"....

You can do a Google search for the term: "dometic DM2652 cooling unit replacement" and do your own "research about what's available for sale"..

I will say that my Springdale had a DM2652 and the cooling unit failed about 6 months into ownership. Keystone/Dometic paid for a warranty replacement in 2011. A friend of mine bought the trailer when we traded it in and he is still using it with that 12 year old "Dometic replacement cooling unit", so there are alternatives to buying a new refrigerator that are 1/3 to 1/2 the price.

As for the JC Refrigeration 12 volt compressor cooling unit, people who have them seem satisfied, but that option simply would not work for us since we like to "boondock in places where there's no electricity other than what we pack in with us"... We can't yet "cut the tie to an LP absorption refrigerator".... So, depending on your camping needs, there are options, but some work better than others, depending on how you're going to use the refrigerator....

Check that Google search term and see what you think .....

SimonTuffGuy · 07-13-2023, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

others say they're better than the competition because they're "Amish built"....

This brings up a good point. So, I happen to live in the middle of a pretty large Amish area. Is something like this repairable by someone who knows what they're doing? I'd assume they would pull the unit out, check/pressurize it/repair whatever the failure is, and then get it ready for reinstall?

My father-in-law just won a full size fridge/freeze combo that he put at his camp, LP fed (there's no power there other than generator) and he got it for a steal of $35 in an auction. He had a local Amish company give it a once-over to make sure that it was in good shape and it worked perfectly the last time we were at his cabin.

I, of course, did go straight to Google and searched for that same thing you mentioned and found several results in the $450~ range. I want something that is going to be a good, quality fix, so that I'm not doing whatever this removal and reinstall looks like in 2 years.

**JRTJH** · 07-13-2023, 06:31 PM

Some Amish communities have a "refrigeration guy" other communities "wagon their broken stuff to the next community for repairs... The only way you'll know if there's a repair capability is to talk to someone in that community and see if they know anything about who does repairs for their community. Keep in mind that the "Amish refrigeration systems used in their homes and businesses" don't have a 12 volt control board to "guide the operation". Their system is based on what RV refrigerators were back in the 60's and 70's when they had pilot lights, you went outside to hold a match with a pair of needle nose pliers to light the pilot while DW kneeled inside to push the pilot button in for 30 seconds (until the thermocouple heated up) and hopefully the wind wasn't blowing hard enough to blow out the flame before you got that little door back on to keep the flame burning..... Our systems have advanced quite a bit, so a local "Amish refrigeration expert" may have never worked on a Dometic DM2652 or even be capable of rebuilding your system... So, ask around and maybe you'll find someone. Then again, maybe not... Worth a try if they are close enough to spend part of a Saturday morning asking around.....

I'm in total agreement with you about not wanting to do this kind of repair every 2 years. It's not difficult, but at that frequency, the refrigerator cabinet may not hold up with all the twisting and tugging on it.

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