When I did mine, I called MOR/ryde to comfirm the kit number I needed for my factory equipped CRE/3000 equalizer. The MOR/ryde kit was actually made by/with Dexter parts and is available online with a Google search.
Edit: Folks, do this ASAP when you get your trailer, new or used, and follow up with removing the China bombs and checking the wheel bearings, seals and brakes. The grief you save will be your own.
When I did mine, I called MOR/ryde to comfirm the kit number I needed for my factory equipped CRE/3000 equalizer. The MOR/ryde kit was actually made by/with Dexter parts and is available online with a Google search.
Edit: Folks, do this ASAP when you get your trailer, new or used, and follow up with removing the China bombs and checking the wheel bearings, seals and brakes. The grief you save will be your own.
It was a year ago, so that info is long gone. Sorry.
I recall I gave the trailer year/model, shackle length, 5200# axles and mentioned the CRE/3000 equalizer when I called MOR/ryde direct. He was pretty quick to give me the kit number, which at the time was $88 from Amazon. Probably one of the least expensive yet effective mods to date.
It was a year ago, so that info is long gone. Sorry.
I recall I gave the trailer year/model, shackle length, 5200# axles and mentioned the CRE/3000 equalizer when I called MOR/ryde direct. He was pretty quick to give me the kit number, which at the time was $88 from Amazon. Probably one of the least expensive yet effective mods to date.
Found the box in the shop. U012-016 is the kit number. Still $88 and change on Amazon.
As I noted in Post 20, I have since done mine -- every original nylon bushing was worn through and at 12-15,000 miles. The MORryde CRE will already have the bronze bushings so you will have spares. I also added one inch longer 9/16" U-bolts plus a 1" block to level the 5er up while towing. A note about the original 1/2" U-bolts as supplied by Keystone, all nuts were looser then the correct torque value of 65 lb ft and spun off easily. Another note - the center shackles will probably reverse. I levered one pair back, the other will move into position when the trailer is returned to the ground. Good time to check and adjust the brakes and magnets plus clean and repack the wheel bearings.
While recently towing the 5er, I noticed less motion over bumps and some squeaks and rattles are now gone
This was such a great write-up with pictures that it motivated me to tackle the job on my 2015 Laredo 314RE. I used the Dexter kit from eTrailer that included the EZ Flex equalizer. I had used this part on my previous rig, 2007 Cougar TT, and I loved the way it pulled with the EZ Flex installed.
Now the real story here is that I am 57 Y/O and fat and I have torn the rotator cuffs in both shoulders, so my wrenching is limited. Still, following the write-up I was able to do the job in 4.5 hours for both sides. I used 2 floor jacks instead of the bottle jacks which made it easier to move the axles as needed.
Don't be afraid of this upgrade! It is simply replacing 10 bolts! I look forward to our first trip with this upgrade. Grand Tetons here we come!
Good upgrade. Did mine last weekend. Aside from trying to remove a bronze bushing in the cre3000 (mistake) it went smoothly. Impact tools made it go quickly as did the 6 point level up
Thanks for all of the tips. I went to Advance Auto and loaned a ball joint removal tool. That tool and a pneumatic impact wrench helped expedite things. It took me about 3 hours on the passenger side and 2 on the driver's side. The nylon bushings didn't look that bad. The trailer should have over 10,000 miles now with shipping from the factory (Truck Brake Controller indicates around 9,500). I feel that the bushing could have gone another 5-10,000 miles, but it's piece of mind for me. The squeaky suspension is gone now.
As I noted in Post 20, I have since done mine -- every original nylon bushing was worn through and at 12-15,000 miles. The MORryde CRE will already have the bronze bushings so you will have spares. I also added one inch longer 9/16" U-bolts plus a 1" block to level the 5er up while towing. A note about the original 1/2" U-bolts as supplied by Keystone, all nuts were looser then the correct torque value of 65 lb ft and spun off easily. Another note - the center shackles will probably reverse. I levered one pair back, the other will move into position when the trailer is returned to the ground. Good time to check and adjust the brakes and magnets plus clean and repack the wheel bearings.
While recently towing the 5er, I noticed less motion over bumps and some squeaks and rattles are now gone
I think you should have went up a size/diameter on your u-bolts...anytime you lengthen them it good practice to go up a size in diameter from 1/2" to 9/16".
So I will that to make the bronze bushings easier to inst all into the springs and equalizer I bought 1# of dry ice, placed the bronze bushings in t paper bag with the dry ice and put in the freezer over night, this will shrink the bushings and will be easier to install.
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Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360 Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
We haven't ever had to "shrink" the bushings to put them in.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
We haven't ever had to "shrink" the bushings to put them in.
Well didn't say required, just makes the job easier.
I used a deep socket to recieve the old nylon bushing, and used a vice to use the new bronze to push out the old nylon. I like working smarter not harder, never liked beating into place.
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Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360 Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
I used a standard screw driver to get the nylon bushings out. Then I used a combination of a rubber mallet and bench vice to get the bronze bushings in.
This upgrade is a necessity in my opinion. I did the Dexter kit on my last trailer that I have since traded in so now I need to do it to the new rig. My old rig towed so much better with this wet bolt kit and new heavier shackles on it that the first test tow out I could not believe the improvement. This should be standard on new trailers today, there is no reason for the crappy nylon bushings. Cheaper.....for the manufacturer, I know.
Installed the kit this week. Went pretty well. Big deadblow helped motivate things. Center bushings were worn through. All zerks were good. I have two 12 ton jackstands which were perfect as they are very tall.
TT is Bullet Premier 29RKPR with 15k miles on it.
Went into bearings for first time. Didn't pump EZ Lubes as it has been a couple years and did not trust seals. The bearings had a light wipe of grease on them. Ordered up all new bearings and seals so those go on this week too.
Headed to Branson on Sunday so that'll be the shakedown.
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2017 Bullet Premier 29RKPR
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4x4
Canadian here with a Keystone Springdale by Summerland trailer gross weight 7500lbs and just approaching 15000 kms in our second year and I noticed some inside edge wear on the trailing wheels. Decided that the suspension must be loosening or binding a bit causing the wear. So I decided to order the Dexter wet bolt kit and replace the less than desirable OEM nylon bushing and bolts. All nylon sleeves were worn through and the bolts starting to show shiny spots. The job wasn't as difficult as thought, especially when performed in the same manner as "Slow" described. One word of caution to those ordering the Dexter 1 3/4" suspension kit, because the Correct Track system the wet bolts in the Dexter kit for the front and rear adjustable spring eyes are too short. So unless you ordered 4 longer wet bolts you will have to reuse the existing OEM bolts in the new bronze bushings. I will order 4 longer ones and swap them out before our next trip.
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