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Old 10-10-2018, 11:48 AM   #1
jacketslacker
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Water heater exhaust melted water port

On our first outing with our Springdale Mini 1750RD, we found what appears to be a small design flaw.


When I went to hook the fresh water hose up, I realized it would lay over the hot water heater exhaust. No problem, I'll just tilt it to the side and it's not there. No sweat.


However the lanyard for the fresh water fill was apparently too low and melted right off. Has this happened to anyone else or am I just special? Is there anything anyone thinks I could do to fix this? I was thinking of getting some sheet aluminum and bending it to make a small angled heat shield and using pop rivets to attach to the water heater door.
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Old 10-10-2018, 12:17 PM   #2
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I would discuss it with your dealership service department and make sure they know the problem. Also, it might be good to identify it to Keystone so they are aware of the issue and can look at it from a design/engineering point of view. They may not even be aware that there is a potential problem. You can contact Keystone on their website. Along the top is an "OWNERS" tab, click on that and then click on the "CONTACT US" tab. It will open a page where you can identify the problem to Keystone.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:49 PM   #3
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Looks like they made a change on the 18,my water hookup is in the rear,they must have put water tank in the front, mines under the dinette.
I like the water tank in the back , with it full in the front it will increase tongue weight if full.what were they thinking
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:01 AM   #4
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Looks like they made a change on the 18,my water hookup is in the rear,they must have put water tank in the front, mines under the dinette.
I like the water tank in the back , with it full in the front it will increase tongue weight if full.what were they thinking

That's exactly where it is. I don't know what they were thinking but I don't like it at all. We lost any storage under the bed now since there's wiring and a tank in there now.



I will definitely be contacting both the dealer and Keystone. Not sure what they can do other than make some kind of heat shield/diverter. We did find an article somewhere that it may be possible to turn down the temp so maybe that's a possible fix. Not sure yet so we'll have to see.


Thanks for all the info and I've already got some great ideas for mods on the trailer from seeing others posts.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:52 AM   #5
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Jacket, don't go for the "turn down the temperature" idea. You end up with warm water and the exhaust from the heater is still the same temperature. It might not run as long, but the exhaust temperature is still the same.
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:21 AM   #6
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I didn't see your post after a search, so I posted the same problem. I just contacted my dealer (with pictures) and will seek their response.

What happened in your case?
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:03 AM   #7
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Update

Glad to know I'm not alone! So Keystone said to bring it in to repair depot so the issue can be documented because they'd never heard of the issue before. I have an appointment for November 6 to bring it in to Camping World. Not my first choice of places but it's the only repair place within 100 miles. We'll see how it goes there and what they and Keystone decide.


How did yours go?


I did find an interesting kit from Camco that can make the water heater electric. You replace the drain plug with a heater rod and then plug it in. It doesn't heat up as fast as gas but no exhaust that way. It's a possible fix if Keystone and Camping World let me down. Here's the link to it and might be a possible solution if all else fails.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Hot-Wat.../dp/B0024ECCJW


I'll keep you updated on what I figure out as soon as I have anything.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:13 AM   #8
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Glad to know I'm not alone! So Keystone said to bring it in to repair depot so the issue can be documented because they'd never heard of the issue before. I have an appointment for November 6 to bring it in to Camping World. Not my first choice of places but it's the only repair place within 100 miles. We'll see how it goes there and what they and Keystone decide.


How did yours go?


I did find an interesting kit from Camco that can make the water heater electric. You replace the drain plug with a heater rod and then plug it in. It doesn't heat up as fast as gas but no exhaust that way. It's a possible fix if Keystone and Camping World let me down. Here's the link to it and might be a possible solution if all else fails.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Hot-Wat.../dp/B0024ECCJW


I'll keep you updated on what I figure out as soon as I have anything.
The dealer contacted Keystone and is waiting on a reply. I don't want to lower the temps as I don't see that as a reasonable response.

I will update everyone when I have a response.

I will admit, I would rather an electric hot water heater as I don't see myself boondocking and if I did, I can live without a hot shower
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Old 10-31-2018, 07:05 AM   #9
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If your trailer has a Suburban water heater that is "gas only" you can not install a electric heating element in the place of the anode rod. Doing so will eliminate the "anode protection" and corrode the steel tank lining causing tank corrosion and premature destruction.

If your trailer has an Atwood water heater that is "gas only" you can remove the plastic drain plug and install an electric heating element. The Atwood tank is an "aluminum alloy" that does not require an anode rod as the tank functions as its own anode.

Keep in mind that the electric option does not provide as much hot water as the gas option, so taking a shower with the electric only function is typically not acceptable for most owners. Many of us use both the gas and electric option and for both Suburban and Atwood water heaters, the "recovery rate" is determined using "maximum heating capacity" which means that the 6 gallon Suburban water heater "recovery rate" of 17 gallons per hour is determined by using both gas and electric heating systems. Using gas only is around 11 GPH and using electric only is around 8 GPH.

I'd suggest you consider the significant reduction in performance associated with the electric "hot rod" style water heater add on modification. You'll probably find it unacceptable performance for most functions requiring hot water except for limited hot water use. YMMV
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:57 AM   #10
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Keystone is saying that the bug screen is causing the melting. I find this hard to believe as the exhaust heat would still be coming out of the same place.

I guess I am on my own.
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:18 AM   #11
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That's easy, remove bug screen. Get a new cap and run the water heater. Take photos or back to dealer after it melts again. See if they have any other reasons besides bad placement of plastic near heat.
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:46 AM   #12
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That's easy, remove bug screen. Get a new cap and run the water heater. Take photos or back to dealer after it melts again. See if they have any other reasons besides bad placement of plastic near heat.
Yep, but they also don't have a better way to keep bugs out of the hot water heater, except to charge me when it happens to fix/clean things up.

I let them know that they suggested the bug screens, sold them to me and installed them. They said they would reimburse me for them.

I let the dealer know there has to be a better solution. It's like letting your house burn down to prove wood burns.
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Old 10-31-2018, 10:38 AM   #13
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(I let them know that they suggested the bug screens, sold them to me and installed them. They said they would reimburse me for them.)


Did they add bug screen,it comes with a screen ?
What happens when hose is hooked up ?

you could try to get a metal cap and a metal diverter for hose hook up.
if they don't help.


I would think everyone with that year / model is going to have problems 1st time out ?
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:09 AM   #14
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(I let them know that they suggested the bug screens, sold them to me and installed them. They said they would reimburse me for them.)


Did they add bug screen,it comes with a screen ?
What happens when hose is hooked up ?

you could try to get a metal cap and a metal diverter for hose hook up.
if they don't help.


I would think everyone with that year / model is going to have problems 1st time out ?
I have a brass elbow I will use and turn it sideways to keep the hose as far away as possible from the exhaust. I have plenty of mud daubers where I live and so I really want the screening. If I have to, I will add a thin metal strip above the heater exhaust to deflect the heat away from the hose. Nothing permanent, but when I am hooked up.
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:12 AM   #15
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Pictures

These are the pictures. The screens were added.
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:57 AM   #16
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from your pic h20 is directly over screen.
other 2019 1750rd pics online show it to the left side of cover not over vent.
maybe you got a early build and they made changes.

might help talking to dealer or factory that it was changed at some point.
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Old 11-01-2018, 01:32 AM   #17
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from your pic h20 is directly over screen.
other 2019 1750rd pics online show it to the left side of cover not over vent.
maybe you got a early build and they made changes.

might help talking to dealer or factory that it was changed at some point.
I have the 2018 Hideout 177lhs model. I looked at the 2019 pictures I could find and I don't see that they moved anything.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:07 AM   #18
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Your right ,I was looking at the 1750rd still too close to vent .
looks like same overall set up not sure why different model # and why different location for vent.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:56 AM   #19
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That is so frustrating to hear that they're going to blame the bug screen. That's the exact same screen I have, convinced to buy by the dealer. If they blame that, they're going to be hearing from me on a phone call because that's the most retarded thing I've heard in awhile. It's a poor design, the end. Own up to it and figure out a way around it. Heat shield/diverter would be a possibility or just swap the gas unit to a completely electric unit. I don't plan to boondock so going all electric doesn't bother me. I guess I'll find out starting Tuesday.
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:07 AM   #20
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That is so frustrating to hear that they're going to blame the bug screen. That's the exact same screen I have, convinced to buy by the dealer. If they blame that, they're going to be hearing from me on a phone call because that's the most retarded thing I've heard in awhile. It's a poor design, the end. Own up to it and figure out a way around it. Heat shield/diverter would be a possibility or just swap the gas unit to a completely electric unit. I don't plan to boondock so going all electric doesn't bother me. I guess I'll find out starting Tuesday.
I would appreciate you letting me know.
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