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Old 01-20-2019, 10:27 AM   #21
Bbqguy
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2018 Durimax 2500 with a Grand Design 373

For what it is worth, I do love my 2500 Durimax. It is a beast and has tackled 8 plus grades up and back down and has not really breathed hard. Took my Class A non commercial with it and did well with a sliding hitch. The DMV tester was impressed with the maneuverability with it and the long pay load.
I am sure some folks will say should have bought a 1 Ton. I have had a Durimax 1Ton, wich I loved a few years back, but this 2018 really out did it. I did sacrificed the stable of the dully, but it is nice to get into the parking at Home Depot better.
As some of you know, they use the same frame for the 3/4 Ton as the 1Ron, they add a leaf. I did upgrade my suspension with Temperline and after many trips work great.
I did have a non sliding hitch and after caving it the cab of my truck, did not take long to upgrade to the slider.
Again, I am sure there is some major disagreement out there and will get some " Just wait until" , but just thought I would throw out my experience.
Thank name for allowing me to be a part of this forum.
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Old 01-20-2019, 10:41 AM   #22
scarlson42
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Late to the party here, I just followed the email link. My experience is based on a 2016 F350 SRW diesel pulling a 36.5' Laredo 5th. A crew cab with a short bed is fine IF you use a slider hitch. I just upgraded to a slider after two seasons of stress inducing backing in tight spots with a non-slider. There are some truly gifted people out there who don't need a slider, but I'm not one of them. My non-slider configuration absolutely did not make it to 90 degrees in backing without hitting the cab. Just my $0.02.
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Old 01-20-2019, 10:55 AM   #23
slman
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I have a Ford 250 7.3 with a 6' 2'' bed. I would never own a long bed due the time I spend disconnected from the trailer and parking issues while shopping and being the tourist on a variety of fronts.
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Old 01-20-2019, 11:37 AM   #24
LERD
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Different view

I'm a little hesitant to add my two cents here because I know the dually police are lurking just around the corner. But I pull my 27ft Copper Canyon with a f150 supercrew shortbed. No, it's not even the max tow. Just an ecoboost with the 3.55 rear end. I have the pullrite 3100 autoslider and it all works fantastic. The camper is an 07 so I do not have the rounded front corners, so I can't quite get a full 90 degrees. But my tires and suspension are protesting long before that angle so I'm good. The bigger truck will be coming in about 4 years when I retire and we are doing more than just weekend trips. But truthfully, if I could get that same truck to a higher GCVW rating .... just saying the shortbed wouldn't scare me in the least.
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Old 01-20-2019, 01:31 PM   #25
ptpick
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Very interesting. Sounds like you have exactly what I had. 2013 Ram 2500 LB pulling my sprinter 35'. I too wanted to go to a short bed. I think going to s SB truck you might want to look at the 3500, a little bit better payload for our Sprinters. Talking with other 5vr's some have the stationary hitch with no issues, some have the sliders and others have auto sliders which is what I am going with. We cannot wait to pull with this combo. One of the reasons it to so long to get a SB is because I really wanted the AISEN transmission, awesome transmission.
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Old 01-20-2019, 01:50 PM   #26
SR71 Jet Mech
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So it seems I have the exact same setup in fiver. Check my signature. I have no problem. If I was to change it would be to go to a 4X2 dually. But same problem, I can’t find one......anywhere. I will stay with a Ram though....
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Old 01-20-2019, 03:56 PM   #27
jim1
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What about a rotating pin box? I've had 2 fifth wheels with 2 different rotating pin boxes, they work very nicely.
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Old 01-20-2019, 06:07 PM   #28
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I don’t agree with those who say you absolutely need a 1 ton for a fifth wheel, however, a 3/4 ton does limit you compared to a 1 ton. Heck, lots of people pull fifth wheels with a half ton (no HD payload package) but there aren’t many 5ers light enough to be within a typical half ton’s specs so I would never do it. Up to say 11,000# a gas 3/4 ton will work unless you tow in the mountains or full time. If you want a diesel, go with a 1 ton to have a better payload number.
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Old 01-20-2019, 06:50 PM   #29
chuckster57
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You don’t “need” a 1 ton to tow a fiver, as long as the fiver you are towing is light enough. Over the course of my ownership and current career, the natural progression seems to be “go bigger” in a year or 2. So if you start with a 1/2 or 3/4 ton, you might find yourself trying to trade inna 2 year old truck that has depreciated more than the balance of the loan. Start with a 1 ton if there is ANY chance of moving up to a larger unit and your not trying to juggle finances. JMO YMMV.

FWIW, I started with a 21.5’ fiver, went to 27.5’, then 36.9’ and now 30.9’.
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Old 01-20-2019, 09:21 PM   #30
Randallf
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Im glad you metioned the anderson hitch. That was my next question. i have the round cap on my sprinter and i would think a 6.6 ft box would work just fine.
However, i would like to keep my tool box. What is your thoughts ?
thanks
randy
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washington
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:56 AM   #31
larryflew
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GMC 3500 Duramax/Allison long bed pulling 37.5 foot Alpine. I think short bed might be a bit bouncy with shorter wheel base. Truck came with slider that i have used when sharp corner backing is required. Easy to operate once you get used to it.I

I agree that the full bed doesn't look right with full crew cab bug love the look of full bed with the shorter extended cab.
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:59 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randallf View Post
Im glad you metioned the anderson hitch. That was my next question. i have the round cap on my sprinter and i would think a 6.6 ft box would work just fine.
However, i would like to keep my tool box. What is your thoughts ?
thanks
randy
2017 sprinter 5th wheel
washington
I think you will probably be OK with a 6'6" bed and a rounded nose fifth wheel. That said, a "over the bed" style tool box that's 18" wide will effectively make the truck bed a 5' bed, about 6" shorter than the F150/RAM1500 "short bed" trucks. You won't have much clearance before the trailer hits/contacts the tool box.

An alternative is a "below the rail" or "even with the rail" tool box. That would give you the clearance for the trailer but brings with it a problem with carrying generators, 5 gallon water tanks, etc that won't fit inside the tool box. There's very little clearance behind the hitch for taller items because of the way the pinbox swings during turns.

If the reason for the tool box is "out of sight" storage, you might consider a folding/rollup bed cover??? We have a Tonno-pro tri-fold which solved that problem for us.

As for the Andersen hitch, some like it, some don't. Remember that with it, many states require safety chains. That depends on how each state law is written, so if you decide to run without safety chains, cross into a state that requires them, you'll be in violation of that state's law and could be ticketed... It gets "sticky" crossing state lines.
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:00 AM   #33
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Long Bed Only !

My initial feeling on short beds is always the same....'why would you want one ?! I'm a carpenter, so I immediately picture a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood or 8' 2x4's or whatever. I find the extra room is very advantageous. I can haul our 2018 Cougar 279 RKSWE 5er, with lots of spare room all around, AND haul a large cargo box up front. I have read that one needs to buy an adjustable hitch for a shortbed, so as to get the correct placement for your hookup...avoiding too far forward or rearword. They are bigger, of course. Our 2012 Dodge Duelly Diesel, which we love, (best towing MPG), is a bit of a pain in smaller parking lots, but for many uses, over time, longbeds are the best !
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Old 01-21-2019, 05:03 PM   #34
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New to it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pull Toy View Post
+1 ^^^ for Larry. Plus you probably won't pay much more.

My 2016 F350 bed measures 6'9', and although I have a slider, I've never had to use it.

Good Luck,
We just bought a 2019 F250 KingRanch cab diesel and was wondering if we need a slider or not. We have never towed a fitlfth. And yes now real payload only 2028 for a 10000 lb gross.

X Navy SeaBee
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:32 PM   #35
JRTJH
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We just bought a 2019 F250 KingRanch cab diesel and was wondering if we need a slider or not. We have never towed a fitlfth. And yes now real payload only 2028 for a 10000 lb gross.

X Navy SeaBee
I have a 2015 F250 short bed crew cab diesel. Limited payload but it fits (barely) our Cougar XLite. We do NOT have a sliding hitch, I've never come close to the cab, don't feel the need for such and the "non-sliding CURT fifth wheel hitch" has served us well for two fifth wheels, first a Springdale "flat front trailer" that we could only get to about 70 degrees when backing and now this Cougar that we can easily get to "close enough that I worry about the trailer tires sliding sideways"... in other words, I can back up at greater angles than I am willing to put my rig. So, for us, the short bed F250 works with our choice of fifth wheels.

That said, if we were to buy a fifth wheel that was 2" (yes, two inches) longer and 1 pound heavier, I'd get a F350 to tow it. I feel that we're at our max pin weight with the cargo we always carry.
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:31 PM   #36
Randallf
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what about safetychains for the anderson hitch? Any problems going across the usa without them?
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:49 PM   #37
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I've got a 3500 crew cab short box srw, tapped the cab once, turning hard and the trailer rocked thru a hole. Had to trade my trifold toneau cover for a soft roll up, wasn't enough clearance for trailer while cornering. My brothers crew cab long box dually rides better than mine.
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:50 PM   #38
JRTJH
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what about safetychains for the anderson hitch? Any problems going across the usa without them?
I think that's very much the same as asking about having insurance, a driver's license or any other item that's "required by a specific state". Unless you get stopped and checked, they likely will never know. If you do get stopped, or if something happens, then if you aren't in compliance with the laws of that state, you're open to being cited, fined, possibly having your equipment confiscated or impounded. Every state is different, every LEO has some discretion, some are lenient, some are BY THE BOOK.....
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:58 AM   #39
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Someone at some point in time in this forum said, Buy the trailer you want to own first, then buy the truck that can handle it with room to spare. With homework and deliberation you can figure out new/used, gas/ diesel. I personally did not do that as I'm a rookie, but I will do that next time.
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:04 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Northofu1 View Post
Someone at some point in time in this forum said, Buy the trailer you want to own first, then buy the truck that can handle it with room to spare. With homework and deliberation you can figure out new/used, gas/ diesel. I personally did not do that as I'm a rookie, but I will do that next time.
You and me both.

What is on paper for the tow guides isn’t worth even using as TP.

If you even think you will want something bigger in the future, buy the biggest truck (payload, GCVWR) you can afford. I didn’t, and while I tow fine, I want a safer ride that can haul more stuff.
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