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Old 08-29-2018, 02:28 PM   #1
KennyDean
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Winterizing newbie questions

Hello to all,
I have a 2015 cougar 25 rks fifth wheel. Last year I moved it from storage in northern MD to Nashville TN. Was told no need to winterize as the winters aren’t cold enough. Well they were. Took my trailer out for the second time this summer for six weeks and boy did I have problems. Had to replace my kitchen sink fauset, bathroom sink and shower fauset and a part in back of toilet plus the inlet panel where I connect the water hose into my trailer. With that all said I need to winterize my fifth wheel this year correctly. Have watched many u tube videos on how too.
My questions are:
1) where is my water pump located?
2) I took the panel off the inside bottom cabinet of my water heater. But do not see any hoses with valves? My user manual say I have the by pass kit on it?
3) watching the video once they connect the hose on the water pump into the anti freeze bottle and turn on the fauset it looks like a lot of water comes out before it turns pink. Where is that water coming from?
4) is it easy enough for me to attemp this task myself or should I pay to have it done?
After replacing all the parts I said I did I see no more leaks but can’t find the pump?
Anything else I should know before attempting this task.
Thank you
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:57 PM   #2
RagingRobert
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Sometimes we need to learn the hard way...I've decided to winterize myself as a newbie?...I'm going for the air compressor method blowing the water lines dry. Pretty straight forward according to Keystone/Goggle/U-tube...I hope I don't learn a lesson the hard way...
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:37 PM   #3
KennyDean
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RR yes sir after getting a TBI brain injury overseas I seem to learn the hard way.
But want to learn as much as I can. The area RV store said for that area they recommende the anti freeze method but $100 thought I could do it and put the money saved towards the money I spent.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:11 AM   #4
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That's what I did last year (wintering in north Dallas area). Blowing it out worked just fine, but added antifreeze to the p-traps and a touch in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out.

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Old 08-29-2018, 03:02 PM   #5
Bisjoe
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Hopefully someone with your model knows where things are. In my TT the bypass valve is on the inside, on the other side of the water heater, after I remove a panel under the entertainment system. When you turn on the faucet there is water in the lines that has to clear before the pink stuff comes out. You avoid this by blowing air through the system. I prefer to add the antifreeze to the fresh water tank, and run all the faucets until the come out pink. Then drain the gray water tank, and pour down the sink and tub drains, and in the toilet to cover the closed drain. The first time it took me an hour, most tricky part was draining the water heater with the plastic plug at a funny angle. I bought a new plug and special wrench for that on Amazon which made it much easier. Considering what it cost you to repair it, you might want to pay someone if not comfortable with the process. My pump is under the bathtub/shower with an access door on the side.
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Old 09-08-2018, 07:50 PM   #6
Local150
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I won't put the pink stuff in the holding tank as the taste and smell linger all season. With hot water bypass no need for that, plus it takes more anti freeze,, I can do my 34 footer with about a gallon and a half
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:32 PM   #7
KennyDean
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Thank u Bishop, yes I hope someone with my same unit can help.
I did not like having to pay for all the fixtures but after replacing I felt good that I could do it. Thought I could save$100 but do understand. Thank you again
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:54 AM   #8
flybouy
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Don't have your model but if you run the pump you can usually find it by following the noise when it's running.. Typically you will have to remove a panel to get access. I drain all the low point drains, drain the hot water heater, blow out the lines with compressed air, then use the antifreeze thru the water pump. Don't forget any outside showers/fixtures. The water heater bypass is typically on the cold water inlet, it's a valve with a pipe connecting the inlet and outlet water lines. Search this forum, I've seen numerous posts on this subject. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-30-2018, 06:07 AM   #9
KennyDean
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Flybouy
Thank you for your valuable input ! Hoping to learn as much as I can about my trailer. Write down notes in my log book. Want to take it out next year for a three month adventure. I will look at past posts. Safe travels!
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:41 AM   #10
flybouy
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Have fun planning your 3 month excursion and take lots of pictures!
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:46 AM   #11
KennyDean
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Sure will buddy. Will put the pictures on an album. Raving a lone gets lonely at times but I have noticed rivers are friendly people.
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Old 08-30-2018, 11:50 AM   #12
sourdough
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I agree with flybouy. Just turn it on. I've not had an RV that I couldn't hear the water pump. It will be behind a panel, or in a box....somewhere. Some folks have posted pictures on the forum of them being in some pretty weird places. Mine is under the bathroom sink thankfully....but a tight fit for sure.
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Old 09-08-2018, 05:27 AM   #13
Carvendive
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Not the same but maybe... 28RKS XL 2017 5th wheel.
I remove the wood trim panel in my storage Bay to get at the back of the water heater and the water pump.
The water heater bypass is on the back of the heater. Pretty easy to see with a flashlight.
When I installed the water pump bypass (I use antifreeze) I ran extra lengths of hose and mounted the bypass near the hot water heater so that I now only need to remove one panel in order to winterize.

I'm an overkill kind of guy. I blow out the system first and then add the antifreeze.
*** Only use 35-40 psi of air ***
The 100+psi from the compressor will cause damage.

Also... You will still need some antifreeze. P-traps for sinks and possibly built in ice makers and the toilet. I leave some in the toilet to keep the flush seal lubricated and to prevent shrinkage, from drying out.
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Old 09-08-2018, 05:40 AM   #14
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One other thing.
I can't tell you how many times I've listened to or helped fix winter freeze problems where the owner tells me it was winterized at the shop.

Do it yourself. The more you do your own maintenance the more pride and joy you will have with camping.

... same thing with wheel bearings. Easy to do and you know they are re loaded with quality grease.
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Old 09-13-2018, 02:55 PM   #15
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I used antifreeze last year and it was cold enough to freeze it. Lucky that the lines didn't burst. I will be doing compressed air to blow out the lines from the pump back with all faucets open. I was told by a seasoned camper to adjust your psi to about 30lbs to prevent lines from splitting. It was my first winterizing last year and found a bunch of info from this forum and youtube videos. Good luck.
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:00 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by imenzies76 View Post
I used antifreeze last year and it was cold enough to freeze it. Lucky that the lines didn't burst. ....
The "claim to fame" for RV antifreeze is that it doesn't typically freeze solid, but turns to an icy slush. Even if it does freeze completely, it doesn't expand as it freezes. It's the expansion that causes the damage by splitting tubing, valves, etc.

Many people simply "run some pink stuff through the pipes, when it's pink at the faucet, they're good"... It doesn't work that way. The plumbing is filled with water, when you introduce RV antifreeze into the system, it mixes with the water and, until all of that mixture is pushed out of the plumbing, you don't have "full protection" to the advertised rating on the antifreeze container. What you do have is diluted antifreeze that can still cause damage if it gets cold enough, and yes, that dilution will freeze, expand and can damage or destroy your plumbing system. That's the reason to either "run until the faucets flow dark pink" or "blow the lines to remove as much water as possible before using antifreeze". It's "cheaper to remove the water with air" than it is to "remove the water with antifreeze" so most people in cold climates use a compressor before they add the antifreeze to their system. YMMV.
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:29 AM   #17
KennyDean
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To JRTJH
Thank you makes a lot of sense. One I replaced all my faucets and pipe that water hose connects too. I am hope I have no tubing that is bad. Guess the only way to find out turn on the water and see if you have good water pressure coming out. Fingers crossed! Will let everyone know how it goes.
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:29 AM   #18
KennyDean
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A big thank you to all you who gave me great advice on winterizing my cougar

Thank you. With all your help and great advice I was able to save $250 and feel good about myself being able to do it myself. Everything went well following step by step procedures. One item I forgot to buy and don’t need it till I go out in May is a new shower head and hose. Did look over my water heater for about 1/2 hour followed the hoses and my unit does not have a cold and hot water shut off valve. Jut one that shuts both off and by passes at the same time. Now I have a permanent pump winterizing kit on the pump.
One happy camper!
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:33 AM   #19
KennyDean
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I Scratch on the side of my 2015 cougar extra light fifth wheel.

Scratch on the side of my 2015 cougar extra light fifth wheel.. it’s about 12 inches don’t know how it got there. Under my window. It is noticeable. Most of the scratch doesn’t go all the way through the decals or the paint not sure if it’s paint or not but about 3 inches in the black detail it does go through the decal and is rough. Any suggestions To fix this issue as it is my home away from home and I take pride in it like everyone else takes pride in their’s. Thank you
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:33 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyDean View Post
Thank you. With all your help and great advice I was able to save $250 and feel good about myself being able to do it myself. Everything went well following step by step procedures. One item I forgot to buy and don’t need it till I go out in May is a new shower head and hose. Did look over my water heater for about 1/2 hour followed the hoses and my unit does not have a cold and hot water shut off valve. Jut one that shuts both off and by passes at the same time. Now I have a permanent pump winterizing kit on the pump.
One happy camper!
Good for you. Nobody is going to care more about doing it right than you. My wife thinks I'm crazy (she's a "just pay the guy" sort of person), but I really enjoy working on my camper and learning everything about it that I can.
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