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Old 09-08-2019, 04:39 PM   #1
Agdodge4x4
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Gas regulator failed??

I’m on the road...Third trip with our Keystone 212LHS. Everything checked out ok before leaving. Now, no hot water. It sputtered and popped earlier but I’ve noticed my regulator on tank 2 wont indicate “empty” even when the hose is disconnected. On tank 1 it will when I disconnect the hose. Anyway, no matter what, tanks have fuel and none of it is getting to anything. The stove doesn’t hiss when you turn on the gas. Water heater lighter ticks but no start. At this point I suspect the entire line is simply empty. I am not aware of any gas shutoff for this unit other than tanks. Otherwise, regulator is all that can be bad.

A couple of days ago the fridge running on propane tripped on the high limit switch. Highly unusual. Then we swore we smelled gas coming from an otherwise completely trouble free stove. A stove that had never been used. We don’t use it. Ever. Brand new. Anyway all of this now is making it sound like a gas issue.

Am I missing something? Did my regulator on my 3 year old camper just take a crap on my trip?

It’s a Winntec 6020 regulator. Any help is appreciated. I don’t use gas for anything except hot water and family is kinda tired of cold showers. Lol. If this is the problem, I can fix it here on the spot. Also, when I take off the lines from the propane tanks, I can hear and smell propane evacuating out of the part you screw on to the tanks. Seems like that should not be happening at all. Maybe I need to go ahead and top off both tanks and make sure those are good to go and try again.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:03 PM   #2
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What happened, what did you do, prior to taking off on the trip as far as LP goes? Fill tanks? Flip the regulator valve?

I'm wondering if you "switched" the regulator valve quickly and it just shut down on you. Either that or it DID crap out on you. Mine is a 14 and I'm on my 3rd regulator....
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:05 PM   #3
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When you turn the bottles on do you just crank them open? Try removing the lines from cylinders for a couple minutes. During this time, turn the switch from one side to the other a few times.

Then put the hoses back on the cylinders with the valves closed. Open one VERY SLOWLY for the first turn, then open as usual. Then repeat on the other side. If that doesn’t fix it then you probably need a new regulator.

I would get a Marshall Excelsior dual stage to replace it. Only thing to pay attention to is the pigtail ends at the regulator. Some are NPT and some are inverted flare, the parts person should be able to get you going either way.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:58 AM   #4
Agdodge4x4
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To test prior to leaving I just turned on the gas valve and flipped the water heater switch. It took a few tries but finally fired up. This time tried flipping to the other tank when it became obvious the first was empty and then everything stopped working. Flipped back and forth and nothing. Does the regulator has a “shut down” feature I’m no aware of? This morning it seemed to be allowing gas through. Haven’t refilled tanks or tested other than turning the stove on slightly to listen for a hiss which it did.

So confused.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:19 PM   #5
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The only “shut down” feature I’m aware of is the safety devices in the pigtails and they shut off flow if too much LP if flowing like a cut or ruptured line.

If you bought the trailer new and have only used it 2 or 3 times without the furnace, it’s possible your about out of propane. Not every dealer fills them full when delivered.
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:40 PM   #6
sourdough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agdodge4x4 View Post
To test prior to leaving I just turned on the gas valve and flipped the water heater switch. It took a few tries but finally fired up. This time tried flipping to the other tank when it became obvious the first was empty and then everything stopped working. Flipped back and forth and nothing. Does the regulator has a “shut down” feature I’m no aware of? This morning it seemed to be allowing gas through. Haven’t refilled tanks or tested other than turning the stove on slightly to listen for a hiss which it did.

So confused.

Just to verify, but when you say "flip" the regulator valve in my mind I just see quickly turning it from one tank to the other. Is that the way it was?

In your sequence of events were both LP tanks on all the time? If so, when "it" was apparently empty, both tanks would have been empty because the regulator would automatically switch to the full tank when the first became empty....if both tank valves were on. If not, and you turned on the 2nd LP tank the "flipped" the regulator from one tank to the other it might have been too quick and it shut itself off. It has to be a s l o w turn from one side to the other.
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Old 09-09-2019, 03:41 PM   #7
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If you're plugged in to shore power turn the water heater to electric & stop the cold showers, it should heat on either or both.
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Old 09-09-2019, 04:30 PM   #8
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I don’t think I have electric to heat water heater. How can I tell??



Got new propane. Tried to light the water heater. After about three failed attempts I have zero flow coming out of anything that uses gas. There is no way to purge the lines of air if I can’t keep gas going.

‘It worked fine for three nights. I don’t understand how the system works or how to reset the pigtails when they shut down. I do know that standing behind the trailer when you start the new tank off propane is not where you want to Ben unless you want to get licked by a 16” flame. Lol.

Wish I could figure it out.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:09 PM   #9
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Go outside, remove the outside door from your water heater. Look in the lower left corner, behind the gas tube. You'll find a small black switch. UP is OFF and DOWN is ON... Yes, it's mounted upside down....

Push on the bottom of that switch to turn on the electric element in your water heater.

Here's a photo of what you'll see:
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:24 PM   #10
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I don’t have a switch.

Also, I don’t have the nerve to listen or attempt lighting this thing any more. Not a fan of the mini explosions it makes out the back. When trying to light.

There isn’t a lot to these systems. Wondering if I should just dump a new regulator and pigtails on it and see what happens?
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:32 PM   #11
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Make sure the cylinders are full. Then just replace the regulator.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:43 PM   #12
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A regulator and two pigtails will set you back about $60. If you can find a regulator that fits your existing pigtails, just replace the regulator, otherwise, replace the set of three (regulator and two pigtails)... Easy to install and, IMHO, cheaper than DW's wrath from another cold shower....

I'll volunteer to spend your money and suggest: GO FOR IT !!!!!
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Old 09-10-2019, 04:46 AM   #13
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Also, I shut the gas off last night but didn’t use any appliances. The red flag is showing now on the regulator. Does this indicate a gas leak somewhere?
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agdodge4x4 View Post
Also, I shut the gas off last night but didn’t use any appliances. The red flag is showing now on the regulator. Does this indicate a gas leak somewhere?
Was the indicator green when you last checked? If so, then yes, there's a "leak somewhere". It could be the bleed port on the regulator or a leak in a line downstream from the regulator.

You said you didn't use any appliances, but if the refrigerator was on, even in the electric mode, if the incoming electrical power "flickered", the refrigerator would have switched to gas mode, it could have called for an ignition cycle which would have used propane and dropped the line pressure. Same with the water heater. One thing to check, if you have a propane quick connect for a grill, is the valve behind the quick connect closed? The valves often leak and every "OEM" quick connect has had a valve directly behind it to ensure no leaks. As for "owner mods" to add a quick connect fitting, all bets are off, some install the valve, some don't, some ask, "why a valve, it automatically shuts off when you disconnect from the fitting"....
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:46 AM   #15
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Well indicator was black 12 hours ago. Fridge was on
All night but not sure it flickered at all. I thought I read that a leak down over 5-10 mins is a problem but over hours is not.
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:10 AM   #16
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I'm not sure where you read that... A gas leak is a gas leak. Admittedly, if it holds pressure for 5-10 minutes, it "should be good" but what if it doesn't hold pressure for 11 minutes?? In other words, where do you draw the line?

I've always been taught to use a manometer to pressure test the LPG system and to leave the manometer hooked up for at least 15 minutes. Most "patient and thorough" technicians will wait at least 30 minutes before declaring the system "leak free" and I know several that insist on leaving the manometer hooked up for at least an hour, some even test it "overnight"...

Waiting 5-10 minutes is, IMHO, not long enough.
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:18 AM   #17
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...Not a fan of the mini explosions it makes out the back. When trying to light. ...
I'm not clear if the other appliances are working/sputtering for you now, but it appears you are currently hearing "popping" noises from the water heater as it tries to start. I had this issue when an insect (maybe a spider) built a rather tight web in the burner tube. It actually caused a backflash which took out the thermal resistor (a safety device to protect the circuit board). Cleaning the burner tube fixed that issue. Now when I start the WH on gas I usually drop the outside cover until the flame starts and watch it (from a distance) as the ignition triggers to ensure I don't have the insect issue - no backflash, no problem.
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Old 09-10-2019, 01:22 PM   #18
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I have gas smell under the cover of the tanks. Probably leaking there at the regulator. Should there be any odor there at all ?
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:06 PM   #19
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The "gas smell" comes from an additive to the propane. It's called mercaptin, an oily substance that smells a bit like garlic, actually, it smells like what we "consider propane to smell like". Since it's an oil based substance, it can collect on surfaces and cause them to smell like propane, even when none is present.

So, in a confined space like under the plastic propane cover, you may have some mercaptin that has soiled the plastic and is transmitting the smell. I have a distinct smell of propane in my propane compartment. Whether it's mercaptin on the regulator, on the fittings, on the tank valves or even sprayed on the door to the compartment ??? I don't know what's causing my "propane smell" but I don't have any leaks, my last manometer test of 90 minutes had no reduction of pressure, so the smell isn't from a leak.

Short answer: Having a smell of propane in a confined space doesn't mean there's an active leak. But don't ignore the smell since it may mean an active leak.
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:55 PM   #20
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I have gas smell under the cover of the tanks. Probably leaking there at the regulator. Should there be any odor there at all ?
John is right. I have a smell of LP under the cowl when I open it to access the tanks. I have checked it and had it checked. I have no leaks but the "whis" of a smell of propane is there. Just make sure your system is tight.
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