AC power at half

[sourdough]

I agree with the previous couple of posts. I would also point out that Surge Guard has just upped the EMS game with their new model which someone posted a link to some time ago. It is the only one I know of that monitors any kind of fault from the load side and will actually protect the RV from that from my interpretation. It only protects against an open neutral situation, but, at least it's one more facet of protection....and, it comes with a remote!!

https://rvpower.southwire.com/produc...a-model-34951/

[bobbecky]

Maybe I'm not being clear on this, but the EMS protects the rig from voltage issues from the source side, meaning the RV park's system, but does nothing to protect the rig from an issue within the rig. If the EMS is a hardwired type, then it will also protect from a problem in the inside main cable from the shore cord connector and even the shore cord itself.

Individual breakers in the rig's main panel protect the rest of the rig from a fault on the circuit the breaker feeds, so if you have a problem, whether it is a short or an overload on a particular circuit, that breaker will trip, so the rig doesn't burn up from that problem. If there is a major fault at the panel, maybe a breaker fails to open or gets hot to the point it starts to burn, then your main breaker should open, hopefully. If there is a fault in the cable that feeds the main panel from the place where the shore cord connects to, or even in the shore cord, then the breaker in the park pedestal will be the one to open, because the breakers in the RV panel inside will not sense a fault behind it. You could take a shovel and cut the shore cord in two, and the breaker that will open, after the flash, will be in the pedestal and the RV will never see the problem, except for no power after that event.

The EMS protects against bad voltage issues, and breakers protect against faults or overloads.

[Mountainbound]

My plug in surge protector is by Southwire and it has multiple led's which indicate problems at the post or before. I feel my plug problem was just by much use and maybe the reel that stores the cord pulling on the wires. My converter seems to be working ok as I can hear the fan increase in speed as I turn more lights or fans on but I will check the voltage from it. As for the microwave can just the board be replaced or does the whole unit have to be replaced?

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Mountainbound

My plug in surge protector is by Southwire and it has multiple led's which indicate problems at the post or before. I feel my plug problem was just by much use and maybe the reel that stores the cord pulling on the wires. My converter seems to be working ok as I can hear the fan increase in speed as I turn more lights or fans on but I will check the voltage from it. As for the microwave can just the board be replaced or does the whole unit have to be replaced?

I've always just "replaced" a regular microwave because they're sort of "throw away". But....I replaced my RV microwave a year or 2 ago and it is pretty expensive - 3-4 times as a regular one. Tried a regular microwave; same size design etc. but it would not fit any of the brackets etc. Ordered the one for an RV and they ARE built different. As far as replacing a board I'll let someone else chime in. If it was fried I would just replace it. No telling what has been ruined or compromised that will continue to fail on you - btdt with other kinds of appliances.

As far as your Southwire (Surge Guard) unit, what is the model? Is it just the surge protector or the EMS? I'm thinking the the EMS units have 2 line readouts on the front and the "surge" protectors have the LEDs. If that is the case....get the EMS and put the "surge protector" in the garage.

[ChuckS]

If you can source the microwave parts you can replace just the power supply circuit board. It is most likely what took the hit and opened up a few caps. If you have the skill set you could also troubleshoot the board itself and replace blown components.

[LCrabtree]

I'd start at the 50A post and work 'forward.' Measure both legs, also check ground continuity. If okay, disconnect umbilical from surge protector and measure both legs at the surge protector outlet, also verify ground continuity there. If that is okay, then the problem is somewhere in the trailer circuitry.

Originally Posted by sourdough

If you have 120vac on both hot legs at the ped and you don't in the RV it is probably the "surge protector". Your AC comes in on 2 separate legs, 120vac each - each leg feeds different things fed thru the power panel. It feeds the converter but the converter does not feed your AC outlets. For both legs to be at 50vac in the trailer, barring some weird failure of an appliance, your "surge protector" is more than likely the villain. Pull it off and plug in the trailer - if the ped power is OK you have no issues. If that works, post back...you need something far better than a "surge protector".

[LewisB]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

Maybe I'm not being clear on this, but the EMS protects the rig from voltage issues from the source side, meaning the RV park's system, but does nothing to protect the rig from an issue within the rig. If the EMS is a hardwired type, then it will also protect from a problem in the inside main cable from the shore cord connector and even the shore cord itself.

Individual breakers in the rig's main panel protect the rest of the rig from a fault on the circuit the breaker feeds, so if you have a problem, whether it is a short or an overload on a particular circuit, that breaker will trip, so the rig doesn't burn up from that problem. If there is a major fault at the panel, maybe a breaker fails to open or gets hot to the point it starts to burn, then your main breaker should open, hopefully. If there is a fault in the cable that feeds the main panel from the place where the shore cord connects to, or even in the shore cord, then the breaker in the park pedestal will be the one to open, because the breakers in the RV panel inside will not sense a fault behind it. You could take a shovel and cut the shore cord in two, and the breaker that will open, after the flash, will be in the pedestal and the RV will never see the problem, except for no power after that event.

The EMS protects against bad voltage issues, and breakers protect against faults or overloads.

That's generally true but a little out of date. Besides providing complete EMS (Electrical Management System) protection from issues on the park/pedestal side, the new Surge Guard 50A #34951 also includes protection from an "open neutral" on the RV side (50A service only). This is a portable pedestal mounted unit. I just purchased one of these along with the optional bluetooth remote #40301. I love this thing! The remote shows both L1 and L2 Voltage and power draw in both Amps and Kilowatts, plus frequency. And it is "plug & play" - no modifications need be made to the RV - plug it in to the pedestal and plug your RV in. Pair the remote one time and you're done. If you want to measure power for one device, shut everything off, then watch the remote as you turn things on - what a great tool! It works with 50/30 adapters but provides the open neutral protection only on 50A service.

[moodman]

Thank you for alerting me to this subtle but important distinction. So now I have a dilemma. The portable protectors are easy to plug in, but they are also prone to theft. So an internal one is the way to go.
To my knowledge, the internal ones are much more expensive. So, does anyone here know a way to retrofit an external one so that it is "in the wall" of my RV, essentially becoming an internal one? Surely someone has done this. Maybe there is a YT video. Don't know. Share your thoughts please. Thanks.

[LewisB]

Originally Posted by moodman

Thank you for alerting me to this subtle but important distinction. So now I have a dilemma. The portable protectors are easy to plug in, but they are also prone to theft. So an internal one is the way to go.
To my knowledge, the internal ones are much more expensive. So, does anyone here know a way to retrofit an external one so that it is "in the wall" of my RV, essentially becoming an internal one? Surely someone has done this. Maybe there is a YT video. Don't know. Share your thoughts please. Thanks.

I considered this when I made my purchase. Our Raptor has the power plug at the back of the trailer on the road side with an internal wire to the power transfer switch (generator vs. shore power) in the pass through storage area near the front. I considered "intercepting" the supply wire coming in from the trailer plug to the transfer switch, installing a female plug which could be used to plug in the #34951, then a new pigtail from the Surge Guard output back to the transfer switch input (hope that makes sense).

However, that's a lot of new connections with the possibility of heat and shorts in the heart of the trailer. In the end, I took the easy route of just using the unit at the pedestal and using a chain through the included anti-theft ring on the Surge Guard. Admittedly, it would still be easy to steal, but someone would need to either cut the plug off of the Surge Guard or cut the anti-theft ring. So this only would stop "casual theft" - I have faith that the likelihood of a serious theft is pretty low. Just IMHO.

[sourdough]

I've had this Surge Guard EMS for over 4 years and it's never offered to walk off. All I have is the plastic housing that secures the connection to the trailer with a padlock. I've never talked to anyone that has had one disappear although I'm sure it happens and there are probably members who have experienced it. I think the convenience of having your readout inside is just about as important as the the theft deterrent aspect from what I've read. I will say that we stay in improved campgrounds most of the time and we've never lost anything....and we leave quite a lot outside. Any other time we are pretty much in the boonies and the cord doesn't get used.

[Rubicon100]

As for the microwave issue, we have one over the cooktop in the house and steam from the stove fried the circuit board.
My wife got on YouTube and watched a couple videos then she ordered the board and changed it out pretty quickly.
It's an expensive microwave so it was worth 50 bucks to fix it and she did it without any help from me. We now run the fan when cooking so it doesn't happen again but it was an easy fix.
Dan

[FlyingAroundRV]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

And I’d also be verifying the converter didn’t get fried as well. It is on all the time so the second you had issue the converter most likely took a hit as well. Verifying converter by measuring DC output

Second that. We hooked up to a friend's miswired extension cord and fried our converter. We didn't have the EMS installed at that time, but installed one quick smart afterwards!

[jimborokz]

Originally Posted by Mountainbound

I found the culprit. I decided to replace the molded plug on the 50 amp cord. The inside may have melted or pulled lose even tough it checked out alright when I did a continuity check. The circuit box is now reading correctly but as I turned on each breaker the clock on the microwave did not come on. I checked that outlet and it read 110 volts, pugged in the microwave and the turntable was turning very slowly with the door open. Very weird so I guess the board is fried in it. I had to work Saturday so today was the first time I have had to try to fix things. Everything else seems to be working now but I have unplugged the RV for the night until I can get everything back in place. Thank you to everyone for their input on this.

After having our fiver plugged into 20A at home last summer just to keep the battery up I noticed the microwave clock was off. Microwave was dead but the outlet it was plugged into was live. Then I also noticed the turntable turning very slow but just when the door was open. Never did get to the cause, dealer replaced the m/w under warranty. But your experience brought back that memory. BTW, I had no other electrical issues going on at the time.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jimborokz

After having our fiver plugged into 20A at home last summer just to keep the battery up I noticed the microwave clock was off. Microwave was dead but the outlet it was plugged into was live. Then I also noticed the turntable turning very slow but just when the door was open. Never did get to the cause, dealer replaced the m/w under warranty. But your experience brought back that memory. BTW, I had no other electrical issues going on at the time.

Mine did exactly the same but it was plugged into 50A. Warranty didn't cover it buy my checkbook did.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by moodman

Thank you for alerting me to this subtle but important distinction. So now I have a dilemma. The portable protectors are easy to plug in, but they are also prone to theft. So an internal one is the way to go.
To my knowledge, the internal ones are much more expensive. So, does anyone here know a way to retrofit an external one so that it is "in the wall" of my RV, essentially becoming an internal one? Surely someone has done this. Maybe there is a YT video. Don't know. Share your thoughts please. Thanks.

I had the PI 50 amp portable since '05, been coast to coast border to border since then full-time, never locked it up & it never walked away.
Most people don't have any idea what it is that's plugged into high voltage so are scared to touch it, those that do know what it is probably already have one.

[Old Mustanger]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Most people don't have any idea what it is that's plugged into high voltage so are scared to touch it, those that do know what it is probably already have one.

Have to agree with this statement. I actually had a fellow camper ask me what that thing hanging from the eclectic pole was, when I said it was an EMS his reaction was "what the heck is that for?"