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Old 01-16-2018, 03:18 PM   #1
Freeheel4life
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Slide issue

Hey fellas,
Went to run the slide in on the last trip and slide moved a bit then stopped. Could audibly hear the motor running like it had either low voltage/or bad ground which I haven't had time to confirm as I just got home last night and at work today.
What I do know is it was causing a breaker to blow as I would lose all power to my patio and outdoor lights and the one inner light that are all tapped off of same power wire to switch panel(switch panel for lights is right next to slide switch). I'm assuming the breaker for this circuit is one of two I have at the front of the trailer as I was finding no breakers or fuses affected at inside panel. So are the breakers at the front of the trailer a ballast type breaker that resets after it cools off? Power kept coming back after a short period of time.
Next question is when I pulled cotter pin at the motor and tried running the switch motor seemed to turn fine. As I was cranking in slide manually it felt like the entire cylinder would build up some tension and it would finally unload and move freely then build up some tension and "pop" again then pulled in easy. Ive always had a little popping when extending and retracting since we bought the unit but always just assumed it was a little bit of frame or roller noise, but am starting to think it may be related to the cylinder binding internally and causing amp load to go high.
Curious what you guys have to say. Probably wont have time to get the multimeter on it until this weekend, so figured I'd put a line in the water before and make sure I'm not way off base. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:47 PM   #2
bobbecky
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This is all speculation, but you must have full battery voltage to make the system work. With good batteries, you should not have any problem, unless the temperatures are colder than normal. We never had a problem getting the slides to operate with the hydraulic system. but we have the hydraulic Leveling system, and that is where the little cheap breaker was failing. Our wiring from the batteries, through the breaker, and feeding the hydraulic pump is #4 copper, and the Lippert approved fix for this is replace the 40 or 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker. Since doing that on our rig, we have never had a slide or leveling jack stop operating, cold weather or hot weather. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-C.../dp/B001PYL1VM
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Old 01-17-2018, 06:55 AM   #3
Freeheel4life
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Thanks Bob. Should have also stated that I was on shore power and had been for 5 days.
IF I'm not mistaken I believe my setup is solely electric motor that moves a cylinder/actuator. It says 30A is max on it so I would be very leery having 80A as my circuit protection.
Temps were cold as I was up skiing but not that cold. Mid 40s when I was packing up and overnight low was only mid 30s. Didn't freeze overnight.
I came home from work last night and bumped the switch and slide started moving out without blowing breaker so something is up.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:02 AM   #4
Freeheel4life
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I have a voltage drop between where the right side breaker is paralleled to the left breaker. Left side is a 30A plastic breaker with only one output and slide motor is labeled as 30A so I'm assuming the circuit is my trouble maker. The right breaker has a metal housing and it's mounting tabs are opposite the plastic one.
Upon removal I can find no marking in regards to Amp rating. Looking thru Camco parts catalog I found what appears to be the identical breakers but they come in 10A and 15A. I ordered one of each but thought I'd see if anyone actually knows what is the rated Amperage. I have two wires on the out side of that breaker.
Judging from the wire gauge on the wore leaving top post it would be a 15A....hopefully someone has been down this road before
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Old 01-25-2018, 07:07 AM   #5
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Save your picture for reference, or only remove one wire at a time - But - I think you might want to clean all of your posts/connections with a wire brush and some emery cloth. Then reconnect everything using a good coating of dielectric grease. The mating surfaces of those connections might be bright and shiny - but I doubt it.
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Old 01-25-2018, 07:36 AM   #6
Freeheel4life
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Thanks Jack. I just went ahead and ordered new breakers, old one was so corroded the post broke off as soon as I tried removing the nut. I was only getting 3v across the breaker. Hopefully they show up today.
Was debating using some CRC battery post protectant (the purple stuff), or di-electric. I already built a new jumper to replace the one in the bottom of the picture. Am also going to cut off the corroded ring terminal and crimp on new one and heat shrink. Will post pics when I'm done.
Hopefully this is the answer, if not I think it's going to boil down to the actuator/cylinder. Fingers crossed that 8$ worth of breakers is the answer and not the 400$ actuator.
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Old 04-07-2018, 11:26 AM   #7
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Hey everyone,
Sorry to drag up an old thread, I busted my shoulder at the beginning of Feb, and this took a back seat. I just hate unresolved threads on forums. May help the next guy.
So, replaced breakers. Freshened up connections, except for larger ones as I didnt have the larger crimp connectors on hand. Used heat shrink connectors then another piece of HS tubing over it all. Little CRC protectant on terminals. Everything seems to be working now. Cant fully extend as theres a light post on our lot at work that interferes. Dragging it home tomorrow and will double check it in the driveway. Need to just find new red rubbers to go over them. Old ones were hashed. Also upsized all my self tappers and used stainless. Hopefully one more thing off the list.
Of course I fix one thing and notice that water is pooled up in Rear right corner. I think its the window next to the door that is the culprit. No water in cabinet above where water was. Dang it.
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