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Old 08-12-2018, 07:50 AM   #21
jameswbarton
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I have a 2016 Montana 50 amp with progressive EMS. I have not travelled much so there is little wear on the plugs. Yesterday I found my cord identically fried like the picture. It is a factory 50amp RV plug. Also the pin in the RV socked connector is burnt. I have also had a couple of Neutral wires fried in the breaker panel. My issue for months has been low park voltage reported by my ems. The Park Refuses to fix the issue blaming it on the power company. I believe low voltage causing my issues.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:11 AM   #22
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My guess would be worn park power pole plugs coupled with low voltage, a "perfect storm" type situation to burn contacts and overpower questionable connections.
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:30 AM   #23
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Thanks! I've seen a lot of 3 conductor twist lock cables but none that were 50A that I know of. Interesting. Do we think those little spring tabs look robust enough to carry 100A if they needed to....or would they melt/burn up? Of course, I am sure the design has been studied and approved and they are in use so that's probably irrelevant but it makes me wonder. Just trying to get a better idea of them in the event I choose a new trailer with that kind of connector.

And yes, the OPs problem does look like a loose connection.
You need to get it out of your head that the connector that is shown is a 3 Conductor......it's not......It's a 4 conductor .....just not the traditional NEMA 14-50 that many of us are accustomed to seeing.
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:10 AM   #24
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I had the same thing happen to our 50 amp two years ago. For us it was the plug wires on the cord. One of the screws holding the wire was coming loose. Installed a new plug on the power cord and we were good to go.
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:13 PM   #25
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One thing I would like to mention is the use of Permatex Dialectric Grease on your shore power connectors. Prevents corrosion and helps with preventing high resistance connections that causes arcing. I use it on both the 50A and 5th wheel hitch connectors.
I use it on all electrical connections & I use it on the sewer hose gaskets also, helps it seal better & easier to twist.
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:28 PM   #26
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I have always used Vaseline jelly on sewer hose gaskets and a little on water hose gaskets when having trouble getting a drip free connection (don't use too much-it can clog the water filter if it gets past the gasket). You can also use this if you run out of dielectric grease for electrical connections.
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:46 PM   #27
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Another possibility is the plug was not fully turned tight so the now burnt connection was not fully engaged which caused the damage. It is very important to fully tighten these plugs.
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:21 PM   #28
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You need to get it out of your head that the connector that is shown is a 3 Conductor......it's not......It's a 4 conductor .....just not the traditional NEMA 14-50 that many of us are accustomed to seeing.

I understand they're 4 conductor. To me though, a conductor ends up in a prong or the female receptacle. On these the 4th "conductor" ends up in a spring tab and contact plate. So, to me, I guess, it's a 3 conductor with a 4th conductor for a spring tab???? Still not sure I like the design.
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Old 08-12-2018, 02:52 PM   #29
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I understand they're 4 conductor. To me though, a conductor ends up in a prong or the female receptacle. On these the 4th "conductor" ends up in a spring tab and contact plate. So, to me, I guess, it's a 3 conductor with a 4th conductor for a spring tab???? Still not sure I like the design.
Mine has worked very well for four years... they're really not NEW... they've been around for a long time..
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:00 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
I understand they're 4 conductor. To me though, a conductor ends up in a prong or the female receptacle. On these the 4th "conductor" ends up in a spring tab and contact plate. So, to me, I guess, it's a 3 conductor with a 4th conductor for a spring tab???? Still not sure I like the design.
My Impact 303 came with that type of connector and it was the first time I had seen them too. Actually, I like it and feel that it helps, via the twist-loc effect and locking ring, to help ensure that the electrical connection is good. The other end of the cable does have the traditional, if you will, NEMA 14-50P for plugging in at the campground or my 50A box at the house.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:46 PM   #31
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I take you guys word for it. You've had them and used them and I haven't. Those little spring thingys just sure don't like they would pass much current without wanting to burn up. If that's how they come now, I guess I'll recant. Probably still look for the 4 prong but won't let the springs be a yes/no changer. Thanks.
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:01 PM   #32
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I take you guys word for it. You've had them and used them and I haven't. Those little spring thingys just sure don't like they would pass much current without wanting to burn up. If that's how they come now, I guess I'll recant. Probably still look for the 4 prong but won't let the springs be a yes/no changer. Thanks.
You might note that the little springy thingy isn't really there for current to pass through it... it's the ground... not the neutral if you got current flowing thru it... you got a problem..
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:12 PM   #33
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You might note that the little springy thingy isn't really there for current to pass through it... it's the ground... not the neutral if you got current flowing thru it... you got a problem..
I know, that's why I said previously if it "had" to carry the full 100A load....in the event of a malfunction.
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Old 08-13-2018, 04:49 AM   #34
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I had a similar problem on my Alpine39. Turned out to be a load problem on one leg.
The panel inside the RV was wired with both air conditioners wired on same leg.
I re-wired mine with each air conditioner on a seperate leg. Bought a new 50 amp extension cable and havent had any problems since.
If your not familiar with electricity, please get a qualified electrician out to look at it.
Good luck.
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