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Old 02-21-2019, 02:24 PM   #1
acooper1983
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Ditching the coroplast for something better

has anyone ditched the coroplast for something a little stronger/higher quality. It might be my ocd, but coroplast looks like a hammered dog turd every time i look under a trailer. My thought is using 1/8" HDPE. Its is EXTREMELY durable , my thought was to use adhesive and attach 2" closed cell construction foam for better under trailer insulation, then attach with sell tapping screws to the frame, im guessing i will have to add a little bit if cross bracing for the seams to be tied into, on could then simply caulk, or tape the joint lines (perhaps a butyl gasket) To fight moisture under the trailer, my idea was to add a "radon" fan and piping for air movement when needed.
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:40 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by acooper1983 View Post
has anyone ditched the coroplast for something a little stronger/higher quality. It might be my ocd, but coroplast looks like a hammered dog turd every time i look under a trailer. My thought is using 1/8" HDPE. Its is EXTREMELY durable , my thought was to use adhesive and attach 2" closed cell construction foam for better under trailer insulation, then attach with sell tapping screws to the frame, im guessing i will have to add a little bit if cross bracing for the seams to be tied into, on could then simply caulk, or tape the joint lines (perhaps a butyl gasket) To fight moisture under the trailer, my idea was to add a "radon" fan and piping for air movement when needed.
Yep, I think you are over thinking it.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:02 PM   #3
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I disagree, I use this trailer hunting in some fairly cold weather, I think this will allow me to not have to dry camp during november deer seasons, combined with pad style tank heaters It will also increase the efficiency per lb/lpg burned.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:44 PM   #4
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As long as the coroplast is intact, no unsealed holes and is fully attached to the frame all the way around, I doubt you will gain any measurable savings of propane usage. We've been in single digit temps with our coroplast covering, and I have never noticed heat escaping from underneath. Besides, heat rises, so it will usually be warmer in the living space. You will probably gain more heating efficiency with dual pane windows than you will with changing the belly material.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:47 PM   #5
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1/8" HDPE normally is not very flat in 4' x 6' sheets, and that depends on the extruder. The plus side it is almost indestructible and has no known solvents at room temperature. If you do some hunting you can find some H extrusions to join the sheets. You will probably have to buy them in 4x8 sheets. Sabic Polymershapes may be a good source. Other materials like ABS or ACM (aluminum composite material) would work but not as forgiving as HDPE. Take a look at the 3 mil ACM, that would make for a good looking underbelly. They make it in "Good One Side" so slightly less than "Good Both Sides". This stuff also comes in sizes up to 5 x10, and is available through sign shops.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:06 PM   #6
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I believe someone pretty sharp earlier said it....yep, overthinking it.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:53 PM   #7
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I dont believe im over thinking anything, Im not sure that one can have too much insulation under a trailer can you? if that was the case, no one would skirt trailers right? coroplast offers little if any R value, so you're relying on your one or two ducts under the trailer for you heated underbelly, this seems like wishful thinking if you truly want to use your unit in cold weather. I've found tons of threads where people have insulated the bottoms of there campers temporarily when living in a unit through the winter up here where we see temps get into the deep negatives. I want something that offers better Rvalue as well as being able to travel with it, hence where the HDPE comes into play. I dont consider that over thinking at all, i consider that an intelligent solution to a real problem with pretty much any RV with an "cold weather" or "artic package" I will admit that i could probably get away with dropping the coroplast, addint insulation and tank heaters and re-installing it, but as stated previously, its a cheap looking product. Its soley used because its cost effective by mfg, there are much better products out there.

FrankG. Thanks for your well thought out and concise response, its appreciated. I have a source for all the HDPE i need, as well as the "H" connectors if i decide you use them, im on the fence as of now as i think i might want to edge screw each 4x8 section to a cross member with a butyl gasket (like in dust collection/hvac systems) So i can drop a single panel at a time if i so choose. I will look into the other products you mentioned as well.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:37 PM   #8
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I have boondocked in my trailer here in upstate NY until the end of October, first week of November, where we regularly get overnight temps in the low twenties the past three years. I sealed all the larger gaps along the edges of the chloroplast with caulk and taped the entire perimeter with foil tape, leaving about a four inch gap in the back where it fit tight so that if I did have a leak in the underbelly it would have a place to drain and I'd be aware of it. (I had a shower drain leak on my maiden outing and only discovered it when I tilted the trailer to hitch up and water poured out the back.) I have thought about dropping the chloroplast and adding a layer of Reflectix and reinstalling the chloroplast, but I haven't done it yet.

Another thing I did that made a big difference in comfort is insulate the top and living space side of the pass through storage with rigid styrofoam glued and strapped in place. The mattress stays much warmer now.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:57 PM   #9
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I have boondocked in my trailer here in upstate NY until the end of October, first week of November, where we regularly get overnight temps in the low twenties the past three years. I sealed all the larger gaps along the edges of the chloroplast with caulk and taped the entire perimeter with foil tape, leaving about a four inch gap in the back where it fit tight so that if I did have a leak in the underbelly it would have a place to drain and I'd be aware of it. (I had a shower drain leak on my maiden outing and only discovered it when I tilted the trailer to hitch up.) I have thought about dropping the chloroplast and adding a layer of Reflectix and reinstalling the chloroplast, but I haven't done it yet.

Another thing I did that made a big difference in comfort is insulate the top and living space side of the pass through storage with rigid styrofoam glued and strapped in place. The mattress stays much warmer now.
Excellent insite Comp! thank you. I need to look at my pass through and consider doing as you have done, solid advice!
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Old 02-21-2019, 07:45 PM   #10
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You're welcome Coop, and thanks.

A friend who teaches college level physics pointed out that the other thing to think about when sealing up the underbelly is that the warm air from the underbelly duct needs an exit for it to be able to flow around the plumbing components, which is really what we are concerned about. In my case the hole around the plumbing under the tub is bigger than it needs to be. I intended to foam it, but he suggested leaving it and taking the access panel off so the warm air could be pushed back through the plumbing hole and into the living space. I think this year I will look for a vent to replace the solid access panel to help insure I don't also get any welcome guests.

Hopefully one of the moderators with more knowledge about real life RV construction will weigh in.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:01 PM   #11
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Hopefully one of the moderators with more knowledge about real life RV construction will weigh in.

I’m thinking you mean this moderator. I’ve seen open underbellies, coroplast only, coroplast with a thick “foil” liner and all the above with R19 batten shoved in. Since I live and work in an area that doesn’t see frigid temps, I don’t have any first Hand knowledge of what’s the best.

If I was considering what the OP is, I would probably just buy kraft faced insulation, unroll it and feed it in the gap between the coroplast and framing. If it’s held in place with self tapping screws it’s an easy task. Rivets can be removed and replaced with self tapping screws.

If your going to try this route, I would only take the fasteners off a few at a time, stuff the insulation and then replace the fasteners before moving on. It’s near impossible to put it back exactly like it was if you drop a large section.
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Old 02-21-2019, 11:37 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by compeakw View Post
I have boondocked in my trailer here in upstate NY until the end of October, first week of November, where we regularly get overnight temps in the low twenties the past three years. I sealed all the larger gaps along the edges of the chloroplast with caulk and taped the entire perimeter with foil tape, leaving about a four inch gap in the back where it fit tight so that if I did have a leak in the underbelly it would have a place to drain and I'd be aware of it. (I had a shower drain leak on my maiden outing and only discovered it when I tilted the trailer to hitch up and water poured out the back.) I have thought about dropping the chloroplast and adding a layer of Reflectix and reinstalling the chloroplast, but I haven't done it yet.

Another thing I did that made a big difference in comfort is insulate the top and living space side of the pass through storage with rigid styrofoam glued and strapped in place. The mattress stays much warmer now.
Well we full time along the Oregon Coast in winter, see temps below freezing down to mid 20's. Our 2005 Copper Canyon is maybe rated a a three season 5er at best, the underbelly was open. I sealed with coroplast and Reflectix, and floors are noticeably warmer. We also heat with the Cheap Heat system, at 5,000 watts no issue that cold, when on a 30 amp service and 1,800 watts, need to use gas to change temp up, but 1,800 watts will hold to the mid 30's, in a 32' 5er.

I would not place any fiber insulation in the underbelly as all will absorb water, Rockwool included!
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:11 AM   #13
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I agree that fiber insulation will absorb liquids, it is a big mess when you lose a hydraulic line. That said, we see it used a lot.
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:05 AM   #14
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Thats was my thought as well, on batting style insulation. I have access to a spray foam rig, but I havent done any calculations as to weight. We camp fairly light as a rule, but i dont want to put so much weight as im getting too close to my axle limits. I figure the hdpe and 2" closed cell will cost me couple hundred pounds and i can live with that number
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:49 AM   #15
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Spraying foam would make it a real PITA if you have to do any electrical or plumbing repairs.
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:11 AM   #16
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I agree that fiber insulation will absorb liquids, it is a big mess when you lose a hydraulic line. That said, we see it used a lot.

We live in a pier & beam house on the side of a rocky hill in the Texas Hill Country. Last Sunday, had a pipe fitting break under the house and the underside is covered with a chloroplast type plastic stuff and chicken wire below that to keep critters from ripping up the sheeting. Our floor WAS decently insulated with batt fiberglass insulation (16" wide) and the insulation was soaked and the chloroplast type stuff was hanging down a foot or more in two places where the insulation had sucked up the water from the broken fitting.



Got the water shut off and Monday had a plumber come in and fix the leak and yesterday crawled up under the house (no fun) and cut the chicken wire and plastic and pulled out a bunch of very heavy and soggy insulation. That is far far better than spraying in foam insulation which would have been a complete disaster as I am pretty sure the water would have not gotten into the sagging plastic but done damage to the floors in the house. Today going to find some fans and dry things out before proceeding to put things back to what they should be.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:11 AM   #17
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If your going to try this route, I would only take the fasteners off a few at a time, stuff the insulation and then replace the fasteners before moving on. It’s near impossible to put it back exactly like it was if you drop a large section.
That's the truth! I found that out the hard way when I dropped entire sections of it at a time replacing a hydraulic hose.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:38 AM   #18
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Just an FYI, skirting the trailer is to make a static air gap which helps insulate the underside of the trailer. If it is open, you will constantly lose energy through the floor, but if that area is not free flowing, than once the air is warmed some, it creates a barrier between your floor and the truly cold outside air. It is the same principle of why bridges freeze over before surface roadways, the air passing underneath them constantly pulls out energy dropping their temperature.

So the air itself is providing the insulation - the foam skirt is just to keep that air in.
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:57 AM   #19
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I've taken the coroplast off mine and installed a layer of reflectix when I put it back up. I cut the coroplast into three sections and added some PT 1x4 at the seams to give me something to screw the seams down tight. Then taped up the seams also. Mine just has a 2" duct coming off the furnace that drops into the underbelly so not a lot of heat gets down there but if you seal up the underbelly good (better than what you get from the factory) it should work better than nothing. The other thing I did was to insulate the PEX water pipes to try and help out.

I'll have to check into leaving an exhaust path for the warm air. I sealed up all the holes into the trailer as a second barrier in case something gets into the underbelly. Might consider putting a screened vent somewhere.
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:13 PM   #20
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That's what I'm going to do -- cut the coroplast into smaller sections, then use 3m spray glue to attach the factory "insulation"/shiny bubble wrap to the top side of the coroplast, then put it back up in more manageable sections. Then I'll put gorilla tape on the seams and spray foam where any pipes come out the bottom.
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