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Old 08-20-2018, 07:20 AM   #1
S&Dfz331
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Heat duct routing

I have a 2014 fuzion 342 the heat duct in the garage has no air blowing through. It is connected at the wall vent. And it looked like all hoses are connected from the furnace. Where would this likely be pinched or dose it connect off the floor duct work? How can I access the floor duct work? I tried to run a camera into the duct work from the wall. Put it only goes so far before the cable just balls up. But from what I could see it all looked good. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:46 PM   #2
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To access your garage duct you have to go under your toy hauler, open up belly.
My 1 month old Impact 332 is back to the dealer for exact same issue. Took it to camping world and they sad that i have like 5 elbows in there and duct is crushed. Will see how it will blow next time. But yes they told me all the ducts are under the belly.
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:29 AM   #3
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That’s what I was afraid of. Thanks
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:37 AM   #4
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That should be easy, there is only some screws on left and right side. you take them them out, move your cover or what ever that is and your ducts should be right there. Trust me you can do it better then anybody will. Thats what i told my wife if they cant fix this time i am not going back there. I will get it done my self.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:41 AM   #5
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If i would do it i will take all the ducts out and install ones that actually have insulation on them just like house ducts. Mine just silver duct with out any insulation. Can you imagine how much heat we loose? Keystone made some cheap ****.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:50 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by svt View Post
Can you imagine how much heat we loose? Keystone made some cheap ****.
That type of ducting is standard for the RV industry. Keystone isn’t any “cheaper” than anybody else when buying duct for heating systems.
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Old 09-19-2018, 07:29 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by svt View Post
If i would do it i will take all the ducts out and install ones that actually have insulation on them just like house ducts. Mine just silver duct with out any insulation. Can you imagine how much heat we loose? Keystone made some cheap ****.
You might want to consider the "WHOLE" picture rather than focusing on the "ugly part".... What I mean saying it this way is:

The ducting that is used is the industry standard ducting. That "lost heat" is NOT lost, but is a part of the trailer HVAC design. There are two functions of the ducting. First, it delivers heated air to the register. Just as important, it "transfers heat through the thin aluminum skin" to the underbelly as a part of the "heated basement" which is a critical component in the success of the insulation package for the trailer. Call it Polar Package, Cold beater package, Artic package or whatever.

There's more "engineering and thought" that goes into designing a travel trailer than just "using cheap materials".

To explain for anyone who might not "grasp the function", if you insulate the ducting so more hot air flows to the register, you prevent the "designed in heat transfer" and your underbelly will be colder. That could lead to frozen plumbing, frozen tanks, colder floors and the inability to keep the trailer warm enough to be comfortable in temperature extremes. There is more to heating a "barely insulated box on a cold night" than blowing hot air through a register in the garage.... YMMV

ADDED: Those "extra long, meandering duct runs with cheap aluminized ducting" is installed that way intentionally. It's not a mistake that the heat duct makes a turn and winds around the gray water holding tank on its way to the garage. Installing it that way might lead to more crushed ducting and installation problems which end with poor air flow at the register, but when installed correctly, they do serve a critical purpose in keeping your trailer "livable on a frigid night". If the ducting is crushed and not functioning, then it's an installation problem, but if the ducting is "losing heat because it's a cheap product"... think about why it's cheap. Might not be just because Keystone wants to make more money.... You simply can't heat a travel trailer with the same BTU's that you heat a S&B home. Square foot by square foot, trailers use 3 or 4 times the energy to heat and cool. It's not "cheap stuff" that causes that, it's 2" walls vs 8" walls, R7 insulation factor vs R26 insulation factor and sitting in the open sun vs a 6' attic with 14" eaves to shade the sidewalls and to dissipate heat. Insulated ducting in a travel trailer heat system could defeat the ability to use the trailer during the winter. But, this is only my opinion, others may well (probably will) disagree.
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:33 AM   #8
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JRTJH Do you work for Keystone
My unit dont come with any artic package or winter package. Just admit they can do better then that.
My unit at the dealer right now trying to find out whats going on with the heat. Had phone call today.
One duct is came a part on the splice, Really? dont you guys use spice collars. Been doing HVAC for 10 years so i know what i am talking about. 2 other was crushed by the water lines. I guess sell it take peoples money and then let them mess with it. Cheap build for 50K trailer and you know it.
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:38 AM   #9
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JRTJH Do you work for Keystone
My unit dont come with any artic package or winter package. Just admit they can do better then that.
My unit at the dealer right now trying to find out whats going on with the heat. Had phone call today.
One duct is came a part on the splice, Really? dont you guys use spice collars. Been doing HVAC for 10 years so i know what i am talking about. 2 other was crushed by the water lines. I guess sell it take peoples money and then let them mess with it. Cheap build for 50K trailer and you know it.
First of all, you're making allegations about me that are completely untrue and unfounded. To answer your first question: No, I do not work for Keystone. I am the owner of a 2014 Cougar XLite 27RKS and that is my ONLY connection with Keystone manufacturing. I also am a member of this forum and a moderator here for the past 5 or 6 years. Otherwise, no connection with "either" Keystone, the manufacturer or the forum... As a disclaimer, I am a member of the Keystone Chapter of the Royal Arch, a fraternal organization, but that has nothing to do with RV's and I state that only to be "totally clear" about my "Keystone affiliation" as silly as it may sound.

Secondly, if your statement: "Really? dont you guys use spice collars" is in reference to me working at Keystone, then you're not only offbase and offensive, but dead wrong.

That said, If you have shoddy workmanship in the construction of your trailer, then your dealer should address that and repair it to meet your satisfaction (assuming your expectations are realistic). My post was intended to address your comment "Keystone made some cheap ****. " which is not a valid or true statement. There is a reason why Keystone and all other RV manufacturers use the materials they use and it's not "always to buy cheap ****". If you work in HVAC for the past 10 years, then you're familiar with different materials working best in specific applications and know that "using the most expensive" for everything isn't always the best material for all applications" and often does not work as well as a different, less expensive material. Your trailer has advertised features such as: "heated holding tanks". The way the factory heats them, in RV applications, is by using "heat transfer through uninsulated ducting runs". For you to "rip it out and install expensive insulated ducting" is certainly your choice as the owner, but my post and my point is that you'd do better to calm down and consider the "WHY" as well as the "WHAT" before you start modifying your trailer and defeating the engineering and material selections that are a part of the HVAC system.

As always, YMMV but again, no, I don't work for the factory, just an owner of a money pit in the form of an RV. I also own money pits called boats, lake house, motorcycle and chain saw (just to name a few).....
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:50 AM   #10
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Thanks all for your advice makes total sense to put duct work in with no installation to heat the tanks and plumbing. I’ll start taking the underbelly off to fix what ever I find. I had started to take it off a while back in the street of my house. Now I have Rv parking so I can take my time a do it right.
Thanks again.
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Old 06-09-2022, 07:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
You might want to consider the "WHOLE" picture rather than focusing on the "ugly part".... What I mean saying it this way is:

The ducting that is used is the industry standard ducting. That "lost heat" is NOT lost, but is a part of the trailer HVAC design. There are two functions of the ducting. First, it delivers heated air to the register. Just as important, it "transfers heat through the thin aluminum skin" to the underbelly as a part of the "heated basement" which is a critical component in the success of the insulation package for the trailer. Call it Polar Package, Cold beater package, Artic package or whatever.

...

ADDED: Those "extra long, meandering duct runs with cheap aluminized ducting" is installed that way intentionally. It's not a mistake that the heat duct makes a turn and winds around the gray water holding tank on its way to the garage. Installing it that way might lead to more crushed ducting and installation problems which end with poor air flow at the register, but when installed correctly, they do serve a critical purpose in keeping your trailer "livable on a frigid night". If the ducting is crushed and not functioning, then it's an installation problem, but if the ducting is "losing heat because it's a cheap product"... think about why it's cheap. Might not be just because Keystone wants to make more money.... You simply can't heat a travel trailer with the same BTU's that you heat a S&B home. Square foot by square foot, trailers use 3 or 4 times the energy to heat and cool. It's not "cheap stuff" that causes that, it's 2" walls vs 8" walls, R7 insulation factor vs R26 insulation factor and sitting in the open sun vs a 6' attic with 14" eaves to shade the sidewalls and to dissipate heat. Insulated ducting in a travel trailer heat system could defeat the ability to use the trailer during the winter. But, this is only my opinion, others may well (probably will) disagree.
Instead of entering a new note...just replying to this old one. This week I've been installing stuff on our trailer, which required removal of sections of the underbelly. One of the first items I noted was the 'abnormally' long sections of heat venting to go from "point A to B". Then I realized the snaked vent was actually meant to heat the underbelly.

Although we have only been out 3-4 nights when the temps were in the 20s, the visual of how important running the heat and not just an space heater was priceless.
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Old 06-11-2022, 06:37 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by svt View Post
To access your garage duct you have to go under your toy hauler, open up belly.
My 1 month old Impact 332 is back to the dealer for exact same issue. Took it to camping world and they sad that i have like 5 elbows in there and duct is crushed. Will see how it will blow next time. But yes they told me all the ducts are under the belly.
Amazon has a belly tape that looks like carbon fiber duct tape for sealing up incisions in the belly plastic. I've used it and it is still sticking the edges shut.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HJVTLSJ
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Old 06-11-2022, 10:21 AM   #13
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Amazon has a belly tape that looks like carbon fiber duct tape for sealing up incisions in the belly plastic. I've used it and it is still sticking the edges shut.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HJVTLSJ
I hope you are aware that you are replying to a person who has not been on the site since 2019. Your info may be of use to someone else but not svt.
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