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Old 04-10-2019, 09:49 AM   #1
Strokesurvivor
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Surburban SW6DEL Water Heater Not Working

I have a 2010 Hideout and the water heater will not work on either gas or electric. I have replaced the heating element, both thermostats, and a couple fuses for unknown reasons, actually because I am at my wits end and will try anything. Everything appears to be getting power. Inside the camper when I flip the wall switch on I can hear it click at the module board. The outside switch seems to flip on and off with ease, the one thing I haven’t tested yet. When I turn it onto gas there is an obnoxious buzz and the reset light is on. If I go outside and press the reset, which isn’t tripped it doesn’t clear. Yes the water tank is full of water, the outside shower is shut off, I have the outside switch turned on, it’s not in bypass and my propane tanks are full. I can physically touch the tank after 30 minutes of being turned on and it is cold.
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Old 04-10-2019, 10:05 AM   #2
JRTJH
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First question: With a Voltmeter, do you read 120 VAC at the screw terminals on the electric element? If not, you have a "thermostat/high limit switch issue", a inoperable power switch issue or a voltage supply issue.

As for the 12VDC/propane function, you say you're getting a "obnoxious buzz" but not a distinct "click/click/click" of the ignitor circuit firing??? That would indicate a probable control board/ignition system malfunction.

I'd remind you that the two systems, AC and propane are independent and you'll need to troubleshoot each separately.

My "WAG" is that you have a bad thermostat/high limit switch or a power switch (lower left corner outside) on the AC side and a control board issue on the LP side.

Test the voltage and let us know.
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Old 04-10-2019, 12:14 PM   #3
Strokesurvivor
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Thanks for the response. One quick question. Where would the voltage supply be coming from? Sorry for the silly questions, I am just a girl who really wants hot water to do her dishes.
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Old 04-10-2019, 04:19 PM   #4
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The 120 VAC comes from the Water Heater circuit breaker in the power distribution panel. The 12VDC comes from the fuse panel in the power distribution panel, through the wall switch (gas) to the water heater.
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Old 04-10-2019, 04:37 PM   #5
ChuckS
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And if your not comfortable around AC voltage the a NCVT is a really good choice for checking the AC side out safely

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/e...voltage-tester
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:32 AM   #6
cookinwitdiesel
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On my trailer, you have to open a panel in the kitchen to get access to a lot of stuff (electrical connections/harnesses). The rest should be accessible from the outside of the trailer.

On the outside, once plugged in and gas open and everything, I had to make sure that the switch was on (duh) and then ALSO "reset" the water heater by holding down the 2 rubber switches simultaneously. Upon doing that mine (admittedly brand new) fired right up.
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:12 AM   #7
Strokesurvivor
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Finally!

The winds calmed down enough yesterday so I was able to do a little more work on my water heater. Your “WAG” was right, it was the on/off switch out side. Yeah, cheap fix. Now onto the gas side today to do some trouble shooting. Thanks again for everyone’s help. After I get this going my next project is my slideout.
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