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Old 06-10-2018, 10:24 AM   #11
JRTJH
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OK, let's look at the situation (as I understand it)....

Everything worked normally last fall. You winterized, and then this spring, you de-winterized, but forgot to turn the water heater bypass to fill the water heater. Turned on the electric element, burned it out, replaced it and the electric and the gas functions don't work. First, are you sure the element you used is a 110VAC element and that it's the proper wattage? (1100 watts, if I remember correctly)

You say the end of the anode rod feels warm (transferred heat from the water through the metal rod), so there is some electricity getting to the element. And the gas function still won't light....

The only common component between the electric side and the gas side is the thermostat/high limit switch (one is 110VAC for the electric element and the other is 12VDC for the gas function). If those thermostats or those high limit switches are burned up (possibly from the same event that burned up the electric element) then the water heater COULD (not would) function on electricity for a few minutes, then stop based on a faulty thermostat and not turn back on because of a faulty limit switch. If the 12VDC limit switch is tripped, then the gas would not function at all.....

So, have you pressed the reset buttons under the black rubber seal in the upper left hand portion of the outside of your water heater???? You may or may not feel a "tactile click" when you push the buttons. You can remove the rubber seal to visualize the two thermostats/high limit switches. Be sure to unplug the RV from shore power or turn off the water heater circuit breaker on the power panel before removing that rubber plug or you may get more than a tingle if you touch the wrong part !!!!!

Let us know what happens when you press the reset buttons on the limit switches.
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Old 06-10-2018, 12:07 PM   #12
travelin texans
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It has an anode so it's a Suburban water heater. On mine the black cover over the reset buttons had pinched the wires against the tank shorting them out. Had to trim the black cover about 1/4", folded the metal over a bit, repaired the wires, & replaced the thermostats, hot water again.
The odd thing about this was that our friends with the same brand of 5er had the very same thing happen the same day. Him & I came outside & both said we didn't have hot water, the same problem was found on both 5ers.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:23 PM   #13
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So, next I did this. Turned off electric to the water heater. Shut off the city water coming in. Figured I could de-pressurize the system and perhaps remove a vapor lock if that is causing this. Turn on a cold water faucet to remove pressure. After running for 30 seconds or so and with a drastically reduced water flow, hot water comes out the cold faucet. Turn on hot water faucet and cold water comes out (not much flow by this point). Turn city water back on, no hot water.


Took my IR thermometer. Pressure relief valve body and anode rod end are both 104F. Aluminum panel is 83F.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:25 PM   #14
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Oh, reset switches have been pressed multiple times. Don't feel that they were tripped, and nothing clicks or makes any noise when pressing. Took the rubber covers off too. No loose wires or shorts.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:37 PM   #15
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Based on your last couple of posts, I'm leaning more and more to it being a valve problem. I'm guessing you have the "multifunction" valve behind your convenience center wall. There are several posts about O-rings slipping or tearing and causing various problems. Nobody has complained of what you're experiencing, but with what you've posted in the last 2 posts, I'm thinking it's the valve that's causing your problems.
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Old 06-11-2018, 04:58 AM   #16
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John's assessment is spot on, I would add that if you have one bypass valve on the cold side then the hot side should have a check valve that may have failed. Let us know what you find.
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:54 AM   #17
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Thanks everyone. I'll try turning the bypass on and off again to see if that helps. Otherwise, will wait until I get back home in a week.
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:27 PM   #18
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Took Chuck's suggestion when I got to the next location, took out the anode rod and drained the tank. Hooked up the city water and turned it on. Water immediately flowed out the hot water tank indicating that the hot water bypass in the vertical position is off. Re-installed the rod, turned the water back on, made sure there was water flow out the hot water faucet, then turned on the electric. Still same no hot water flow. Will check the if the anode and relief valve body are hot in the am.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:18 AM   #19
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Well not much of an update other than the relief valve body and anode end are hot. No hot water out either sink. When you blend the hot water and the cold water, you feel the water being significantly warmer than when full on hot or full on cold. Could their be a pinched line coming out of the hot water heater? From all the bumpy roads, perhaps something shifted.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:53 AM   #20
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Check the hot water line just past the bypass "T" fitting. If it's hot then problem is potential crimped tubing or a mixer like shower head left on and water turned off at the shower head. If it's not hot then inspect the check valve on the hot water tank that's between the tank and the bypass T.
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