A "30 amp trailer supply" can typically operate a single air conditioner, the refrigerator and converter at the same time. Turning on the microwave and/or the water heater or plugging in an electric skillet, a toaster, a coffee maker or a supplemental heater may (depending on the operating status of the air conditioner, refrigerator or converter) cause the 30 amp main breaker to become overloaded and open.
What all that means in "basic terms" is that it's easier to overload a 30 amp trailer system than it is to overload a 50 amp electrical system. That said, it's no more complex than any circuit breaker in your home electrical system. If you plug in more than it can handle, it'll open, but if you don't plug in more than it can handle, it'll work just fine.....
So, each of us "learns" what works together, what causes the "trip to the breaker panel" and what won't work together.
Essentially, you have 30 amps (at 120 volts that's 3600 watts) of available power. As you plug in or turn on items, you reduce what's available of that 3600 watts. Once you go over the maximum, your circuit breaker in the power distribution panel (or on the campground post) will open.
Keep in mind that the electrical source must also be rated at or over 30 amps to supply 3600 watts. If you're plugged into a 15 amp ordinary outlet, the maximum you can get is limited by that source, regardless of whether you have a 30 amp or a 50 amp trailer system.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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