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Old 10-25-2017, 04:56 PM   #1
BlueThunder34
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2017 Chain Location

Hey All, I recently upgraded to a new 2017 Super Duty Diesel. Any of you other 2017+ Super Duty owners have an issue with the new location and design of the chain attachment points? It is about impossible to get them to connect properly due to the narrow hole in addition to the ledge the protrudes into the hole. I can take a picture but Im sure other owners have encountered this. What have you done to properly secure the chains to the truck?
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Old 10-26-2017, 08:34 PM   #2
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Our truck is a Chevy, and we occasionally pull a small enclosed trailer. The chain attachment holes below the bumper sound similar to ours, and the hooks with the safety latch on them will not connect in these holes. I decided to install a couple of chain repair lap links, one in each hole, and now connect the trailer chain hooks to the closed links. I purchased them at a local hardware store. https://www.mfrexpress.com/38-repair...ted-p-404.html
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Old 10-27-2017, 05:42 AM   #3
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Great idea, thanks!
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:16 AM   #4
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Pay close attention to that type of "chain link"!!!!! The ones in the link are rated at 1250 pounds working strength. While they're probably OK for a light utility trailer, they aren't suitable for anything much heavier than 1000 pounds or so. Even with two of them on a thousand pound trailer, with the jerking, bouncing and chain reaching its end of travel, they may not hold....

Certainly, they aren't suitable for a 6000 pound travel trailer. Chances are they would bend/snap under the weight of the trailer pulling against them if it did ever uncouple.

There are some chain links that will work for many situations, but these aren't an alternative for use with a travel trailer !!!!!
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Old 10-27-2017, 07:50 AM   #5
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I got tired of fighting the chain connection to my 2015 f250. I installed two 5/8" 7,100 each rated shackles on my receiver and clip the chains to each shackle. Loctited (red) the threaded pin.

They are like these (but with nuts and cotter pins):
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...le/A-p3800391e
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:09 AM   #6
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Those are much more robust and would work much better (and safer) with a heavy RV. My only concern would be the "clank, rattle, ding" with every bump. Otherwise, probably a much easier and safer alternative.
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:47 AM   #7
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......... My only concern would be the "clank, rattle, ding" with every bump. ...............
Hitched there is no noise. Unhitched, only on big bumps, but since so far back it is hardly noticeable in the cab.
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:52 AM   #8
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I use 3/4" shackles on my Jeep for various things. They are rated at over 9k lbs. working load. I always worry about the threaded ends coming loose but I also use Loctite on them. I think they would provide a much safer attachment than the repair links listed above.....and they are easy to put on/take off.
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:55 AM   #9
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....... I always worry about the threaded ends coming loose but I also use Loctite on them. ...........f.
I should have mentioned that the version I use has a nut and cotter pin as well to secure the pin. I just have not found a link with that configuration, which I prefer.
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:59 AM   #10
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I should have mentioned that the version I use has a nut and cotter pin as well to secure the pin. I just have not found a link with that configuration, which I prefer.

Yes, I've seen those and prefer them. It was what I was looking for when I put those on the Jeep but couldn't find them.
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:26 AM   #11
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I should have mentioned that the version I use has a nut and cotter pin as well to secure the pin. I just have not found a link with that configuration, which I prefer.
I have a set similar to yours but I think they are rated to 16k or more...They are off a transmission line we were building and used on the guy wires. I use them on the front of my grille guard.

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Old 10-27-2017, 10:31 AM   #12
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I have a set similar to yours but I think they are rated to 16k or more...They are off a transmission line we were building and used on the guy wires. I use them on the front of my grille guard.

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I am poor at guessing while sitting on the thinking throne. Says 50k pin or 60k with the right bolt.

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Old 10-27-2017, 10:49 AM   #13
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Good points in the weight ratings. I can’t imagine what the engineers were thinking when they designed this.
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:01 PM   #14
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I was in town this morning, stopped by the Ford dealership on the way back (the coffee is usually fresh right after lunch) and checked out the 2017 trailer hitch. It is significantly different from my 2015 (who'da thunk). The chain holes are no longer diagonal but horizontal. I mentioned that to one of the sales people that I visit. He said, "Come on, let me show you how easy it is to connect"... We walked out with a "spring guard hook" and he slipped it onto the hitch without a problem. He showed me the "right way" to connect them..... He placed it behind the hitch hole horizontally (length wise, aligned with the hole) with the spring hinge toward the side of the truck. He pulled it forward and as the hook entered the hole, rotated the spring hinge down. The hook throat slipped into the hole and the spring clip closed. "easy peasy"

Now, that said, without enough clearance in the hook throat, they probably would bind. I'd think it's probably easier to just find two hooks that work and install them permanently rather than listen to the rattle of the shackles. Of course, it's pretty much a personal preference, to each his own......
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Old 10-29-2017, 01:53 PM   #15
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On my 2016 I have to approach the holes from the side and sneak up on them.


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Old 11-10-2017, 08:39 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I was in town this morning, stopped by the Ford dealership on the way back (the coffee is usually fresh right after lunch) and checked out the 2017 trailer hitch. It is significantly different from my 2015 (who'da thunk). The chain holes are no longer diagonal but horizontal. I mentioned that to one of the sales people that I visit. He said, "Come on, let me show you how easy it is to connect"... We walked out with a "spring guard hook" and he slipped it onto the hitch without a problem. He showed me the "right way" to connect them..... He placed it behind the hitch hole horizontally (length wise, aligned with the hole) with the spring hinge toward the side of the truck. He pulled it forward and as the hook entered the hole, rotated the spring hinge down. The hook throat slipped into the hole and the spring clip closed. "easy peasy"

Now, that said, without enough clearance in the hook throat, they probably would bind. I'd think it's probably easier to just find two hooks that work and install them permanently rather than listen to the rattle of the shackles. Of course, it's pretty much a personal preference, to each his own......

Did you happen to see what type of clevis hook, and the size the dealership used? My trailer came with some standard looking hooks, stamped with 5/16. They will barely hook over both plates, but don't allow the safety clip to close. I thought of trimming the clip down some as an option.

I looked at every local hardware store and some of the chain auto parts stores for a better option yesterday. No luck. I am going to try the ranch stores and NAPA, in the morning.

It sure looks like Curt makes many options, I just don't see them in any stores here locally (thus far).
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Old 11-11-2017, 05:52 PM   #17
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So . . . Today I spent nearly the entire morning at Tractor Supply, Lowes, Big R, NAPA, local hitch shop, etc . . . Not really a surprise, but there were no hooks between 5/16 and 3/8. The 5/16 only hooks without the safety clip. The 3/8 actually will hook and clip, but will not rotate freely in the opening. It is too thick an runs into the actual hitch frame.

After that madness, I drove to the Ford dealer and asked what gives. They had zero clue. When I showed them, they thought it was dumb. However, they have no answers or suggestions.

I will clarify that this does NOT effect he 22K hitch. It does effect the 15K hitch. I didn't see one on the lot with the 18K hitch. The 22K hitch has a larger plate with larger holes, which kind of makes sense. Whatever idiot engineer Ford let loose on this hitch should have to fix every one of them.

I am going to try the local trailer place that virtually everyone recommended when they open next week. This is just ridiculous.
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Old 11-12-2017, 11:34 AM   #18
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If you have a rigging supply store around I would check there.

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Old 11-12-2017, 07:11 PM   #19
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If you have a rigging supply store around I would check there.

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I will check that out. I did what I hope is a temporary fix today. I cut off 1/8" of the tab that closes the hook. Then I ground the outside of the hook enough to rotate down inside the hole.
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:19 PM   #20
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Looking at the picture you posted about crossing your chains, those hooks look almost like the ones the local Ford dealer had. Maybe his were a bit more elongated, but very close to what you're using. It looks, from that picture, that they fit the slots about as good as you're going to get. Next time I'm at the dealership, I'll get a brand on the hook he had, but it won't be this week, too much to do to get ready for "deep snow".....
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