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Old 06-09-2019, 02:32 PM   #11
larryflew
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Have read some great reviews about Wacko noise reduction add ons lately.
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Old 06-09-2019, 03:30 PM   #12
fulltilt
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Hi Bobnelms
Ducted AC is only true if both the return side & the supply side is ducted...you are getting return air noise...to eliminate it you have to cap the return grille in your living room & move it to both sides of the ceiling near the walls, like the newer Montana's. Noise travels in a straight line, until you baffle it or turn it. Ductless AC was never designed to travel down roads threaded fittings & screw terminals as such. Not sure on the R410 refrigerant either, during down periods it may chemically separate. Now you are totally confused right !
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:35 PM   #13
sgrol
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I have installed 3 mini split units at my home. 1 ton unit in master BR, 1 ton in office and 1.5 ton in upstairs bedroom. These are in addition to my central units. The mini splits are whisper quiet and super efficient. Have been wanting to install in TH but not sure how I would plumb the units. The inside evaporator has to have a drain line routed somewhere outside. Freon tubing and electrical also has to be routed to them from the outside condenser unit.
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Old 06-10-2019, 11:44 AM   #14
ranch.manager
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watched several videos on the Wacko. looks like restricted airflow to me. would love to hear from those who have it installed about the impact on air flow
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:05 AM   #15
Sulphur1
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Some pics of the Mitsubishi Electric dual split in our 2011 Cougar HC:
The rear compressor box door is normally closed with compressor heat exchanger air being drawn in from a chute in the underside coreplast and exhausted through the round grill (covered for winter).
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:22 AM   #16
sgrol
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Nice! How did you run the freon lines and condensate drains?
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:31 AM   #17
TandE
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Mini Split Ductless AC Upgrade?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulphur1 View Post
Some pics of the Mitsubishi Electric dual split in our 2011 Cougar HC:

The rear compressor box door is normally closed with compressor heat exchanger air being drawn in from a chute in the underside coreplast and exhausted through the round grill (covered for winter).


Thatís a very clean install I wish I had room to install one on mine. I kinda do but would have to give up storage space. Might have to explore this more. How did you wire it up?


Off topic but where did you get the boxes for the taillights?
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:24 PM   #18
Sulphur1
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Freon lines (they are quite small) run with normal domestic insulated piping held in place with styrene foam (aerosol) to prevent vibration. Drain lines also domestic a/c running through electrical conduit bends to keep shape. Removed section of wall ply (lots of staples!) in bathroom to run lines, electrical & drain inside wall for main room unit. Bedroom ones run in plastic a/c ducting normally used outside of house (see LHS of window). Dropped underside coreplast to run lines, etc from one end to the other. Did not have to use anti-vibration mounts as no noise or vibration when getting to sleep. Easy install!
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:40 PM   #19
Sulphur1
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TandE - Used some room behind rear kitchen cupboard to keep outside unit box small. Some just mount on rear bar. Wired up in accordance with transportable building regulations in Australia - cabling in plastic conduit, outdoor unit isolating switch and dedicated circuit breaker. A friend made the fibreglass boxes for the tail lights.
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