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Old 07-04-2019, 07:13 AM   #1
Jamcar
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Wiring issue

Hey I'm here for some technical help. I have a 2013 Springdale 303bh. I recently lost 12v lights in the back end. The lights out are the outdoor kitchen, the bunk main light, and the secondary bunk light. I have 12v at the panel. I'm thinking the problem is a junction box. Before I year the belly off entirely, anyone know where it is? Thanks in advance
James
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:45 AM   #2
chuckster57
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I would be looking at the switch in the bunk area. Very common for the manufacturer to "daisy chain" the power and ground to several lights since the amp draw is low. Start at the light switch CLOSEST to the fuse panel. Using a test light or Ohm meter set to VDC, test for 12V coming into the switch. Odds are there will be at least 2 of not 3 or 4 grounds joined together with a big Bell connector.

The Positive lead will be the white WITH A COLORED TRACER on it, ground is solid white. Start at one end or the other and start testing. It seems like every time I do I seem to start at the wrong end.
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Old 07-04-2019, 09:21 AM   #3
Jamcar
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Awesome. Thanks man. I was thinking there was a junction box. Good to know 👍
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:11 PM   #4
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Solved! The wiring is daisy chained from the main wiring to the outdoor kitchen which then goes down to the bunk slide wiring. Thanks for all your help!
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:18 PM   #5
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Glad you got it. Your very welcome.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:04 AM   #6
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I have 2 "hallway" lights out in my 2014 Hideout LHS . They only operate on the switches on the lights. There are 4 in a row but the middle 2 are out, kinda over the table area. Pulled all fuses and all good. Bulbs are good..Next step?? Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:14 AM   #7
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Turn the light switches on, use a volt meter to check for voltage at the bulb sockets. If not present, remove the light fixture and check for voltage at the fixture/wiring harness connection (probably a crimp connector) if not present, trace the wire back to the closest operable light in the circuit.

Since you say there are 4 lights on the switch and when turned on the first and fourth lights (closest to the switch and furthest from it) work, then it's probably a fixture/socket problem or a crimp connector for those two fixtures.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:23 AM   #8
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Will do! Appreciate the response..Thanks
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:25 AM   #9
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Are the standard light bulbs just a 12 volt "wedge" type bulb? Going to get LED bulbs to replace with
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:23 PM   #10
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On my 14 all the lamps were type 921 incandescent replaced with 3528? leds. One of the best upgrades you can make.
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:32 PM   #11
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Most bulbs are 921 "wedge base" bulbs but some fixtures still use 1156 or 7506 (P21W) base, so you'll need to check your fixtures to make sure which type you have. Typically it's going to be a 921.

Remember, many LED arrays are polarity sensitive, so if you get the fixtures working with incandescent bulbs and the LED's don't work, turn them over and they should illuminate. Newer LED arrays are not polarity sensitive but many of the cheaper, older ones are....
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Old 07-11-2019, 03:38 PM   #12
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Looking for a softer color, have seen a lot of 6000-6500K
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprky69 View Post
Looking for a softer color, have seen a lot of 6000-6500K

How soft? 6500K is blue to me. I like 4k-5k. Some folks like the "softer" (yellower) colors of the incandescent bulbs. There are all kinds of LEDs available in various brightness.

Here's a chart with illustrations. I did not read the article...

http://www.photographingspaces.com/l...p-of-the-week/
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:42 PM   #14
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Oh I know the colors...looking for a 4000k or 3500K
Thanks
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sprky69 View Post
Oh I know the colors...looking for a 4000k or 3500K
Thanks

What type of lamp? Base?
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:27 AM   #16
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Just to add to how the wiring is daisy chained together...

Got back from our trip to VA beach last week (which was very good BTW) was getting the trailer settled back in and plugged the dehumidifier into the AC outlet under the kitchen cabinet and the dehumidifier wouldn't power on.
Checked the GFI in the bathroom and it was not tripped and had power. Found the outlets on the side of the master bed and exterior didn't work either but the ones in the rear bunks did. Decided to tackle it the next day so got up in the morning and took my trusty voltmeter in hand and miraculously had power at every outlet. Turned the dehumidifier back on and the power light flickererd then went out. Checked the outlets that previously didn't work and there was no voltage. Reset the the GFI again but this time heard a ZZZZZZT in the main cabin and the power light on the dehumidifier flickered on then off again. Reset the GFI several times and finally isolated the source ZZZZZZT coming from underneath the fridge... it was the exterior outlet. Removed the outlet and found a loose ground and neutral wire, there were 3 sets of romex(like)cable going to the outlet . Figure one was going back to the GFI, one to the kitchen and one to the master bedroom. Tested it at every stage of reassembly prior to resealing the outlet cover to the exterior wall. If/when it fails again will install a better outlet but so far it's seems solid.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:41 AM   #17
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One fix I've used for this problem was to wire nut everything together with an extra single lead to feed the outlet. Never had go back on this type of fix.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:43 AM   #18
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I replaced all of my incandescent bulbs with LEDs. I used these. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They were a good deal and made a huge difference in the lighting of our Outback 260FL.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:47 AM   #19
atkinsb3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canonman View Post
One fix I've used for this problem was to wire nut everything together with an extra single lead to feed the outlet. Never had go back on this type of fix.
That thought did cross my mind. Will do it if I have to dig into this again. Thanks.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:40 PM   #20
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My two cents worth.. I like the 3500-4000K in my general living area as it provide a more incandescent look. Under the kitchen sink I've installed a "Hospital Operating Room" 6000K bright white lamps. For those that don't know the "K" represents the Kelvin scale of temperature measurement. It is the scale used in setting the "color" of lamps. For general info. I replaced all of my TT lights, including the marker lights with LED's as we dry camp some. The total cost in 2014 was $385... the prices have dropped since then.
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