New camper/truck

[c_l_phillips72]

So I've spent quite a bit of time this week trying to understand how to calculate whether or not a specific camper would work with my truck.

My Truck:
Curb weight - 5,260
Max Payload - 1,840
GVWR - 7,100
GCVR - 13,900

HI29DFS
Dry weight - 7,162
Max Payload - 2,518
GVWR 9,680
Hitch Weight - 920

So if I were to have my truck and camper at max payload, I would need a truck that could pull GCVR of 16,780 (7,100 + 9,680). Obviously, I'm 2,880 lbs short.

But if I reduced the payloads, would it work?

Payload in the truck:
1) Hitch weight - 920
2) Myself - 225
3) Son - 65
4) Misc - 225

So if I added the curb weight of the truck (5,260) to the dry weight of the camper (7,162) to the payload of the truck, I'd get 13,857 which is only 43 lbs less than my truck's GCVR. Obviously that won't work.

But I've been told that the dry weight of the camper includes the hitch weight, and I've also read that the hitch weight needs to be included as a part of the truck's payload. If both of those are true, then the hitch weight is included in the overall weight TWICE which doesn't make sense to me.

If I didn't need to also include the hitch weight when calculating my truck's payload, then I'd save 920 lbs which could be 920 lbs more payload in the camper for a total of 963.

For now, and the next couple of years, I would think 963 would be enough. After a couple of years, I'd trade the truck if I needed more payload.

Also, not sure if this matters or not, but I'm planning to buy a Equal-i-zer 4 Point Sway Control weight distribution hitch.

[sourdough]

The hitch weight IS NOT included in the weight of the trailer - someone told you wrong. You buy it after you buy the trailer, there are many, many types and brands which all weigh differently AND you take the hitch, put the shank in the receiver of the truck then attach whatever kind of weight distribution bars and sway it has. All of that (a lot of leveraged weight) hangs directly off the back of your truck and comes directly off the payload.

It is VERY unwise to try to use "dry" weights for any type of calculation. That trailer, or any other, never saw the "dry" weight except for the day it rolled off the end of the assembly line. Once you add a battery and propane it weighs more. You NEED to use the gvw numbers to be safe. Your tongue weight could be as much as 1452 lbs. (9680 x .15). To plan on a hitch of 920 is extremely unwise, plus it will assure you that you buy the wrong hitch for the truck which is dangerous. Also consider your son at 65 lbs. at 9; what will that be when he is 11? What kind of "stuff" is he going to want to take to have fun on those trips? Will you just leave all the good stuff at home and give him a smart phone to while away all those hours and make memories?

Lastly, trying to "skim by" overweight for a couple of years....you might get by with it, you might not. I can assure you that you don't want to be skidding broadside into oncoming interstate traffic with your son because that 920 lb. hitch of the back broke due to the 1400 lbs. of tongue weight sitting on it.

You are going to be dangerously close to being "dangerous" if you pursue your current direction.

[Carrottop]

Being that I am towing a 29ft trailer with an F-150 I can tell you that you are pushing and not by a small margin the capabilities of your truck. The GVR of my trailer is 7000lbs with 1980lbs of payload. That means that my dry weight is 5020lbs. I would not even look at a trailer that has a GVR in excess of 7000lbs for your truck. Just my opinion of course but I really think you need to reduce your trailer by at least 2000-2500lbs GVR. All else has already been said and is sound advice. While some on here are very conservative with their number and rightly so. Some push more to the limit which can be ok, but based on what you are saying that is beyond what most of us would consider safe conservative or not.

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by sourdough

The hitch weight IS NOT included in the weight of the trailer - someone told you wrong. You buy it after you buy the trailer, there are many, many types and brands which all weigh differently AND you take the hitch, put the shank in the receiver of the truck then attach whatever kind of weight distribution bars and sway it has. All of that (a lot of leveraged weight) hangs directly off the back of your truck and comes directly off the payload.

It is VERY unwise to try to use "dry" weights for any type of calculation. That trailer, or any other, never saw the "dry" weight except for the day it rolled off the end of the assembly line. Once you add a battery and propane it weighs more. You NEED to use the gvw numbers to be safe. Your tongue weight could be as much as 1452 lbs. (9680 x .15). To plan on a hitch of 920 is extremely unwise, plus it will assure you that you buy the wrong hitch for the truck which is dangerous. Also consider your son at 65 lbs. at 9; what will that be when he is 11? What kind of "stuff" is he going to want to take to have fun on those trips? Will you just leave all the good stuff at home and give him a smart phone to while away all those hours and make memories?

Lastly, trying to "skim by" overweight for a couple of years....you might get by with it, you might not. I can assure you that you don't want to be skidding broadside into oncoming interstate traffic with your son because that 920 lb. hitch of the back broke due to the 1400 lbs. of tongue weight sitting on it.

You are going to be dangerously close to being "dangerous" if you pursue your current direction.

I think there's a bit of misunderstanding about the hitch weight.

When I'm looking at campers online, they show the dry weight, the carrying capacity, the GVWR (dry + carrying capacity), and the hitch weight.

For example, for the hideout I initially bought (but still haven't taken delivery of), the following were provided:
Dry - 7,162
Carrying Capacity - 2,518
GVWR - 9,680
Hitch Weight - 920

THAT hitch weight is included in the 7,162, as the hitch weight is a percent of the overall weight.

When calculating my truck's payload, I can add 920 to the payload (and then subtract 920 from the dry weight), or just not add 920 to the payload (and keep the 920 in the dry weight). Either way, in the end, the numbers will be the same.

I think you're talking about the weight distribution hitch, and you're saying that's something completely different from the truck or camper, and therefore WOULD need to include its weight with the payload of the truck.

I'm planning to buy the Equal-i-zer 4 Point Sway Control weight distribution hitch. I've never lifted one so I don't know how heavy they are, but I'd guess maybe 100 lbs.

The reason I'm using the dry weight is because I don't think I'd ever use up all 2,518 lbs of carrying capacity of this trailer, and that's waaaaaay more capacity than other trailers that I'm considering. So I'm using the dry weight of the camper + the curb weight of my truck + the truck's payload (without the 920 lb hitch weight), and subtracting all of that from my truck's GCVWR of 13,900. The remainder is the carrying capacity of the camper, and in this case it would be something like 963.

If I wait to get water at the actual campground, and wait to get food once I'm at the camping location, it SEEMS like things would work. It seems that being 963 under my max would work, even for long trips to Colorado.

I definitely wouldn't be OVER the ratings and there's no way that I would ever do that, unless it was a VERY short drive to my camping spot.

[Carrottop]

By the sounds of your responses you are trying to convince us that what you are proposing will work. It won't, I am not trying to be harsh but you are trying to justify pulling an oversized trailer with an ill equipped truck by making statements like I wont put food or water in the camper. While I believe you would do this the first couple of trips that would not last as people arrive late or tired and the last thing they want to do is go grocery shopping. There are lots of very nicely equipped trailers in the 5000lbs dry weight category that your truck can handle and you could actually pack to enjoy the trip. My truck is equipped with every tow feature offered from Ford in 09 and has a GCVWR of more than 15000lbs that does not mean the truck can handle that with all other things factored in, I would not exceed a 7000lbs GVR on a trailer with my truck. Seems to me you have convinced yourself this will work and that is certainly your prerogative. I know it is hard to believe when you look at these big trucks and wonder why they cannot pull what we want them too, reality is manufacturers are great at making them look like they could pull a house but in reality they are not built for that unless specifically equipped with all of their tow and payload packages which will help. By the sounds of it and the reading off of your stickers your truck is not.

Good luck and I hope you find the trailer you are looking for!

John

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by c_l_phillips72

I think there's a bit of misunderstanding about the hitch weight.
...
For example, for the hideout I initially bought (but still haven't taken delivery of), the following were provided:
Dry - 7,162
Carrying Capacity - 2,518
GVWR - 9,680
Hitch Weight - 920
....
I definitely wouldn't be OVER the ratings and there's no way that I would ever do that, unless it was a VERY short drive to my camping spot.

One misunderstanding that you have is that the hitch on the trailer will weigh 920 pounds. IT WILL NOT. It weighed 920 pounds when it left the factory. The dealership installed a battery (40) and put propane (60) in the tanks after it arrived at their lot. So, attempting to use the figure "920" in any calculations is a "pure pipe dream". You'll never see it.

As for not carrying food and filling the water tank after arrival. MOST dry camping campgrounds do not have water available and the most popular ones are 20, 30 or even 50 miles from the nearest grocery store. Then, there's that "unintended thing" called no dump station at the campground where there wasn't water. So, even if you "sneak it in by making trips to the gas station with 5 gallon jugs, you still have to "tow it out in the trailer tanks"....

You simply can't use an RV the way you're suggesting. It defeats the entire purpose of having a vehicle "to carry it in and carry it out".

You're going to find that the tongue weight of that trailer will be "well over 1100 pounds" in "any configuration, even lightly loaded" and you're going to have issues with staying below the truck's GVW, RAWR, payload and GCWR.

[spade117]

Originally Posted by c_l_phillips72

But I've been told that the dry weight of the camper includes the hitch weight, and I've also read that the hitch weight needs to be included as a part of the truck's payload. If both of those are true, then the hitch weight is included in the overall weight TWICE which doesn't make sense to me.

I kinda see where the confusion is here.

For calculating payload, yes, you add the trailer's tongue (hitch) weight to your loaded truck to determine if you are within limits.

For calculating GCVWR, you would add the truck weight (loaded, but unhooked, so no tongue weight) and the loaded trailer weight.

The tongue weight is not included twice.

If you search and read about how to weigh your setup at CAT scales, I think it will help you understand a little more.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by c_l_phillips72

I think there's a bit of misunderstanding about the hitch weight.

When I'm looking at campers online, they show the dry weight, the carrying capacity, the GVWR (dry + carrying capacity), and the hitch weight.

For example, for the hideout I initially bought (but still haven't taken delivery of), the following were provided:
Dry - 7,162
Carrying Capacity - 2,518
GVWR - 9,680
Hitch Weight - 920

THAT hitch weight is included in the 7,162, as the hitch weight is a percent of the overall weight.

When calculating my truck's payload, I can add 920 to the payload (and then subtract 920 from the dry weight), or just not add 920 to the payload (and keep the 920 in the dry weight). Either way, in the end, the numbers will be the same.

I think you're talking about the weight distribution hitch, and you're saying that's something completely different from the truck or camper, and therefore WOULD need to include its weight with the payload of the truck.

I'm planning to buy the Equal-i-zer 4 Point Sway Control weight distribution hitch. I've never lifted one so I don't know how heavy they are, but I'd guess maybe 100 lbs.

The reason I'm using the dry weight is because I don't think I'd ever use up all 2,518 lbs of carrying capacity of this trailer, and that's waaaaaay more capacity than other trailers that I'm considering. So I'm using the dry weight of the camper + the curb weight of my truck + the truck's payload (without the 920 lb hitch weight), and subtracting all of that from my truck's GCVWR of 13,900. The remainder is the carrying capacity of the camper, and in this case it would be something like 963.

If I wait to get water at the actual campground, and wait to get food once I'm at the camping location, it SEEMS like things would work. It seems that being 963 under my max would work, even for long trips to Colorado.

I definitely wouldn't be OVER the ratings and there's no way that I would ever do that, unless it was a VERY short drive to my camping spot.

I did talk about the WDH (hitch) weight (which was the terminology being used) and you were talking about "tongue" weight - I got sidetracked.

The "tongue" weight will fall directly on the ball of the truck hitch and should be directly removed from the available payload of the truck. Because you do that does not increase the available payload in the RV by the same amount. You also need to deduct the weight of the hitch/bars; typically 100 lbs. give or take and anything else placed in, or added to, the truck.

In your scenario, you are so close to being over most, if not all, of your weight limits WITH THE TRAILER UNLOADED that I wouldn't even consider it. It is of course your call.

Edit: Spade117 may have hit upon the explanation of the confusion - I didn't see it before I posted.

[Carrottop]

Just to give you an example of why you cannot use the dry weight listed on the trailer here are some photos of first what Keystone lists the dry weight at 5047lbs second what the sticker on the side of the trailer states 5020lbs and thirdly what the CAT scale read taken right after delivery with nothing added 5300lbs. This is why we are saying you cannot use dry weights.

John

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by spade117

I kinda see where the confusion is here.

For calculating payload, yes, you add the trailer's tongue (hitch) weight to your loaded truck to determine if you are within limits.

For calculating GCVWR, you would add the truck weight (loaded, but unhooked, so no tongue weight) and the loaded trailer weight.

The tongue weight is not included twice.

If you search and read about how to weigh your setup at CAT scales, I think it will help you understand a little more.

Thank you, that makes more sense.

As for the CAT scales, are those the weigh stations I see periodically off the interstate? I didn’t know personal vehicles could go there to be weighed. I was wondering where I could go to be weighed and make sure we were ok.

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I did talk about the WDH (hitch) weight (which was the terminology being used) and you were talking about "tongue" weight - I got sidetracked.

The "tongue" weight will fall directly on the ball of the truck hitch and should be directly removed from the available payload of the truck. Because you do that does not increase the available payload in the RV by the same amount. You also need to deduct the weight of the hitch/bars; typically 100 lbs. give or take and anything else placed in, or added to, the truck.

In your scenario, you are so close to being over most, if not all, of your weight limits WITH THE TRAILER UNLOADED that I wouldn't even consider it. It is of course your call.

Edit: Spade117 may have hit upon the explanation of the confusion - I didn't see it before I posted.

Sorry about using the incorrect term. I didn’t know I was referring to the tongue weight and not the hitch weight.

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by Carrottop

Just to give you an example of why you cannot use the dry weight listed on the trailer here are some photos of first what Keystone lists the dry weight at 5047lbs second what the sticker on the side of the trailer states 5020lbs and thirdly what the CAT scale read taken right after delivery with nothing added 5300lbs. This is why we are saying you cannot use dry weights. Attachment 20220Attachment 20221Attachment 20222

John

If my truck was able to support a camper’s full GVWR, I wouldn’t bother looking at the dry weight.

But since I know that my truck couldn’t handle a camper with a dry weight of 7,162 + it’s full carrying capacity of around 2,500, my goal was to determine how much the camper could carry before exceeding my vehicles max tow rating or it’s GCVWR.

In this case, it looks like the camper could carry around 963 lbs before hitting my max.

How much more do I need if I’m already under the max?

I’m looking at another camper that has a dry weight of 6,140 (so 1,060 lbs less than the Hideout), with a carrying capacity of 1,360, so a GVWR of 7,500 and a hitch/tongue weight between 614 (10% of dry) and 921 (15% of dry).

If I loaded the camper to it’s max weight before I travelled (which I would never do), I’d be under my trucks GCVWR by 530 lbs and under my truck’s GVWR by 306 lbs.

If I didn’t load anything into the camper, I’d be under my truck’s GCVWR by 1,870 lbs and under my truck’s GVWR by 306 lbs.

The reason why the GVWR is the same 306 lbs in both cases is because I’m using 15% of the camper’s dry weight in both cases as the tongue weight.

So I’d be using 86.5% of my truck’s GCVWR.

[JRTJH]

The scales you see along the side of the road are DOT "enforcement" scales and are not typically available for private (RV) use. In some states you can use them when the scales are not open and checking commercial truck weights, but they are not available for private use when operating.

The CAT scales being discussed are located at truck stops/refueling stations and are a "pay as you go" private scale. You essentially drive to the truck stop, go inside and discuss what you want to weigh with the attendant (weigh master), he will instruct you on how to park your truck/trailer on the scale, then he'll weigh it, you drive off and go inside to get the document (as shown in the photo) and pay for the service.

One, the DOT scale is a government enforcement facility and not open for private use. The other, the CAT scale is a private business, designed to weigh heavy equipment, trucks and RV's for a price. Usually it's $11 for the first weigh and $2 for each reweigh during the same 24 hour period.

[Gegrad]

Originally Posted by c_l_phillips72

I’m looking at another camper that has a dry weight of 6,140 (so 1,060 lbs less than the Hideout), with a carrying capacity of 1,360, so a GVWR of 7,500 and a hitch/tongue weight between 614 (10% of dry) and 921 (15% of dry).

If I loaded the camper to it’s max weight before I travelled (which I would never do), I’d be under my trucks GCVWR by 530 lbs and under my truck’s GVWR by 306 lbs.

If I didn’t load anything into the camper, I’d be under my truck’s GCVWR by 1,870 lbs and under my truck’s GVWR by 306 lbs.

That's the type of trailer you should be targeting in your search to be safe.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by c_l_phillips72

If my truck was able to support a camper’s full GVWR, I wouldn’t bother looking at the dry weight.

But since I know that my truck couldn’t handle a camper with a dry weight of 7,162 + it’s full carrying capacity of around 2,500, my goal was to determine how much the camper could carry before exceeding my vehicles max tow rating or it’s GCVWR.

In this case, it looks like the camper could carry around 963 lbs before hitting my max.

How much more do I need if I’m already under the max?

I’m looking at another camper that has a dry weight of 6,140 (so 1,060 lbs less than the Hideout), with a carrying capacity of 1,360, so a GVWR of 7,500 and a hitch/tongue weight between 614 (10% of dry) and 921 (15% of dry).

If I loaded the camper to it’s max weight before I travelled (which I would never do), I’d be under my trucks GCVWR by 530 lbs and under my truck’s GVWR by 306 lbs.

If I didn’t load anything into the camper, I’d be under my truck’s GCVWR by 1,870 lbs and under my truck’s GVWR by 306 lbs.

The reason why the GVWR is the same 306 lbs in both cases is because I’m using 15% of the camper’s dry weight in both cases as the tongue weight.

So I’d be using 86.5% of my truck’s GCVWR.

I'm not sure how many times/ways it can be said. You HAVE to look at gvw; constantly looking, and calculating, at dry weights is meaningless and a waste of time. IMO GCVWR is the LAST thing I look at. What is your payload? I don't know that you've ever posted that. Thinking that you will run 300 lbs. under your gvwr and be safe is ludicrous. Saying you're going to go traveling with your young son and take "nothing" because you're going to run "dry" with the truck and trailer, is, well....out there. How do think you will stand on gawr? Have you looked?

I think Carrottop probably summed it up - you want to do this and are going to. We are a sounding board to say it's OK - it's not. I totally believe in trying to help anyone that doesn't understand what's going on with weights, but, it seems to me that you probably know and that's why you don't post the other weights despite repeated requests and focus on the most "liberal" numbers that might let you, in your mind, tow a big trailer. I'm not going to argue with you - pick what you want and put that young boy in there with you - the one that trusts "dad" to take care of him and make responsible decisions.

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I'm not sure how many times/ways it can be said. You HAVE to look at gvw; constantly looking, and calculating, at dry weights is meaningless and a waste of time. IMO GCVWR is the LAST thing I look at. What is your payload? I don't know that you've ever posted that. Thinking that you will run 300 lbs. under your gvwr and be safe is ludicrous. Saying you're going to go traveling with your young son and take "nothing" because you're going to run "dry" with the truck and trailer, is, well....out there. How do think you will stand on gawr? Have you looked?



I think Carrottop probably summed it up - you want to do this and are going to. We are a sounding board to say it's OK - it's not. I totally believe in trying to help anyone that doesn't understand what's going on with weights, but, it seems to me that you probably know and that's why you don't post the other weights despite repeated requests and focus on the most "liberal" numbers that might let you, in your mind, tow a big trailer. I'm not going to argue with you - pick what you want and put that young boy in there with you - the one that trusts "dad" to take care of him and make responsible decisions.

Wow, what a hate filled post.

I’ve been DOING MY ABSOLUTE BEST TRYING TO UNDERSTAND ALL OF THIS, but you have, on multiple occasions, called me out like I’m posting what I want to do and ignoring ALL advice.

I have NO IDEA why it seems that way to you, but that COULDN’T BE FURTHER FROM THE TRUTH.

Some, most, or all (I’m not going to go back and look) have repeatedly said that I CAN NOT USE dry weight.

I disagree, because what I’m using it for is not for the same reason that you think I’m using it, and even if it was there would still be reasons why I could use it.

For example, if the dry weight of the camper was 2,000 lbs, with a carrying capacity of 800 trillion lbs, and a GVWR of 800,000,000,002,000 lbs.

I know that I would NEVER come ANYWHERE EVEN CLOSE to carrying that weight, so to me the GVWR is not applicable in that case. If ALL I DID WAS USE THE GVWR in that case, then I’d move along thinking my truck couldn’t pull that camper.

BUT THAT’S NOT TRUE! It’s only true if I were to actually load the camper to it’s full capacity.

If I added the DRY weight to my curb weight to the tongue weight to the truck’s payload and subtracted that from my truck’s GVWR, then I’d know how much weight I COULD put on the trailer without exceeding the max. It would be no where even close to 800,000,000,000,000 lbs.

Another example:
One camper has a carrying capacity of 2,500 lbs, and the second is 1,250. Both have the same dry weight. At first glance, the GVWR for the 2,500 capacity truck might exceed my truck’s ratings, but the one with 1,250 capacity didn’t exceed my truck’s ratings?

What if I only planned to use 1,250, or NONE of that when I travelled? Then BOTH of those campers are under the Max. Does that mean they’re the best choices? Maybe not. I’ve asked before how much I needed to be under Max to be safe, but no one answered.

Some have said it’s ridiculous to think I’ll never carry water and wait until I get to my camping spot, and wait to buy food. I actually think it’s ridiculous to fill up with water, buy a ton of food, and drive half way across the country wasting fuel to pull all of that. I can guarantee everyone that there would never be a time that I would do that, and I mean NEVER. Even if I had a truck that could pull 5x the weight of my camper, I still wouldn’t do it. I would get food and water where I end up, and I only go to KOA’s that have full hookups. To be too tired when I get there to not get food is ridiculous. If I was that tired, I’d just eat out at a fast food place, then go to the grocery store the next day, and I wouldn’t be pulling my camper to the grocery store. When I go camping, I don’t stay at the campground except to sleep. The rest of the time we are gone, out doing stuff, so driving into town for food or whatever is no big deal.

I pxxxxs me off that you’ve said that I’m just going to do what I want to. You guys have already talked me out of the only camper that I really liked, and I’m trying to find lower weight campers while trying to understand how all of the measurements work together and trying to find out why you guys keep telling me I’m out of my mind when the numbers showed that the camper I wanted did not exceed the max (when driving with an empty or near empty camper).

Even worse was your comment about me being irresponsible and possibly putting my child in danger. That would NEVER happen, and what an insulting thing to say to someone.

The only reason why I’m still here is because I’m still trying to learn, but thanks for being an *******.

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I'm not sure how many times/ways it can be said. You HAVE to look at gvw; constantly looking, and calculating, at dry weights is meaningless and a waste of time. IMO GCVWR is the LAST thing I look at. What is your payload? I don't know that you've ever posted that. Thinking that you will run 300 lbs. under your gvwr and be safe is ludicrous. Saying you're going to go traveling with your young son and take "nothing" because you're going to run "dry" with the truck and trailer, is, well....out there. How do think you will stand on gawr? Have you looked?



I think Carrottop probably summed it up - you want to do this and are going to. We are a sounding board to say it's OK - it's not. I totally believe in trying to help anyone that doesn't understand what's going on with weights, but, it seems to me that you probably know and that's why you don't post the other weights despite repeated requests and focus on the most "liberal" numbers that might let you, in your mind, tow a big trailer. I'm not going to argue with you - pick what you want and put that young boy in there with you - the one that trusts "dad" to take care of him and make responsible decisions.

Here are the numbers:

Payload capacity - 7,100 lbs (it’s on the sticker in the previously attached photo.

GAWR Rear 4,100, Front 3,900. Those were in the same photo. I don’t know how to calculate that with the camper.

Your comment “Thinking that you will run 300 lbs. under your gvwr and be safe is ludicrous.”. I’ve asked at least once what number I need to hit to be considered safe, and no one responded.

So no, I’ve provided the previously requested information but it seems that it wasn’t me who wasn’t responding back with requested information, and then bitching me out for assuming 300 under MAX SAFE towing ratings would be safe.

Furthermore, the absolute most that I could be under the GVWR is around 1,900 lbs, and that’s without me, my son, the tongue with or anything else inside the truck. When those are included, which they should be, I’m 306 lbs under my truck’s GVWR of 7,100. I’m not sure why you think that is so ludicrous or why just me thinking it was good is so ludicrous.

[c_l_phillips72]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The scales you see along the side of the road are DOT "enforcement" scales and are not typically available for private (RV) use. In some states you can use them when the scales are not open and checking commercial truck weights, but they are not available for private use when operating.



The CAT scales being discussed are located at truck stops/refueling stations and are a "pay as you go" private scale. You essentially drive to the truck stop, go inside and discuss what you want to weigh with the attendant (weigh master), he will instruct you on how to park your truck/trailer on the scale, then he'll weigh it, you drive off and go inside to get the document (as shown in the photo) and pay for the service.



One, the DOT scale is a government enforcement facility and not open for private use. The other, the CAT scale is a private business, designed to weigh heavy equipment, trucks and RV's for a price. Usually it's $11 for the first weigh and $2 for each reweigh during the same 24 hour period.

Thank you, that’s very helpful.

[sourdough]

The payload capacity of your truck is 1667 lbs. Read the placards. I don't see a payload capacity of 7100 lbs. on anything...and there won't be. You can keep the cussing and can it. I , along with others, are bending over backwards trying to explain stuff to you but you refuse to listen or try to understand - instead you say it should be OK and you don't understand why it wouldn't be. When I tell you that making the wrong decision holds you and your son's safety in the balance I'm cussed out. Lots of folks come on here, ask a few questions, either get the answer they want...or don't, then leave. If you choose to do that you need to know what kind of game you're playing.

You want a safe number? Load the truck to no more than 80% of its payload; 1333 lbs. cargo for the truck including the tongue weight, passengers, hitch, fuel, tools, groceries, bbq pit, bicycles, toys, firewood, hoses, etc. etc. etc. etc. That probably puts you in the realm of a 700 lb. tongue weight from gvw; that puts you in the realm of a trailer in the 5-6000 lb. gvw range.

What you "want" in a trailer is completely irrelevant since you have the truck. That choice completely drives what you can have in a trailer. It's not my fault or anyone else's on the forum - we didn't make that choice.

[busterbrown]

A lot of defensive conversation. But I'll add a quick comment anyways.

The scales will be very objective with all the numbers. There are no grey lines or "what if's". They will be black and white if the weights are honest and both TV and trailer are loaded and "ready to go camping". It's a good start to see if one has a safe and sound travel rig.

Secondly, I think most here will agree that a trailer's dry weight is meaningless when it comes to answering the ongoing questions of "can I tow this" or "is my TV up for the task". With that said, a packed and ready RV will easily add another 1,000 lbs of towable weight (weight that adds to both the dry tongue weight and dry trailer weight). My Bullet has a dry weight of 6,150 lbs. It has a GVWR of 7,600. After I first season, real world "ready to camp" weight was pretty close to that number. Since we upgraded our TV to a 2500 RAM, we now carry all the toys (inflatable kayaks, grill, extra propane, and tools) in the truck. I have the payload for it. Our prior TV ran out of payload quickly during that first season (1,550 lbs was printed on the placard).

Any further discussion on dry weights vs GVWR vs real weights is like: