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Old 11-04-2018, 03:00 PM   #1
tommy_z
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Andersen No-Sway and Safety Chains

For anyone with the Andersen No-Sway setup, I'm not sure if the safety chains should route over or under the triangle plate.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sbv6oe7pfs...plate.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9ifowbf2ze...plate.jpg?dl=0
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Old 11-04-2018, 03:22 PM   #2
Kylemcmahon1
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I route mine under the plate.

I am interested to see how others route there’s?
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:55 PM   #3
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I route mine over the plate. I occasionally tow without the plate installed. The triangular plate is for the weight distribution chains and there is actually less bounce with the chains off. The anti-sway is built into the ball and the unit is easier to hook up without the weight distribution system, which can sometimes be time consuming to align. For trips over 100 miles I typically install the plate and chains. Safety chain hook ups depend the location and distance of the chain, height of the hitch and ball, and how it hangs afterward. If needed you would want the safety chains to pull straight where they wouldn't hang up on anything.
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:51 PM   #4
tommy_z
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" If needed you would want the safety chains to pull straight where they wouldn't hang up on anything" that's how I saw it too and thought made the best sense.
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Old 11-05-2018, 05:10 PM   #5
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I run my chains under the plate I never had a problem
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:07 PM   #6
jd800
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Hitch Chain routing Andersen WDH

Never gave it any thought over or under. i just run mine under the plate but now you guys are making me think. No issues so far and use WDH every time I pull the trailer on the road.
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:14 PM   #7
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That is the exact problem I ran into, I was afraid either way the chains were positioned
they would get pinched and bend the triangle. So I moved the chains further back and on each side of the trailer frame.
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Old 02-14-2019, 12:28 PM   #8
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SO...I'm getting ready to purchase an Andersen WDH for pulling my camper. Wondering if everyone is satisfied with your purchases? My camper is 10K lbs dry 12,500 loaded and I'm pulling with a 2005 F250 6.0L Any suggestions would be appreciated
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:01 PM   #9
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Welcome to the forum! I don't have an Andersen but I would just throw out some things;

The loaded weight of that trailer is the very max your truck is rated for.

At 12,500 and a 12% tongue weight you would be running 1500 lbs., maybe more.

The Andersen is rated for 1400 lbs. max. at the ball.

What is the payload on your truck (on the placard on the driver door - maybe)? With 1500 lbs. on the tongue you may be close to it, or over it.

Just some things to think about before you buy the Andersen.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:17 PM   #10
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So i've got some upgrades. Airbags installed. The placard label reads 14k
the receiver hitch that was installed has a heavy duty rating of 2500lb tongue wt? I'm guessing that's what i'm allowed to tow on it? The rest of the label has been rubbed off. It says blue...something. However like i said the label is missing.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:28 PM   #11
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The Andersen website said their hitch is maxed out at 14k trailer weight and 1400 lbs. on the ball of their hitch. I am afraid that might put you in jeopardy. Sounds like your receiver will handle it but not the WDH. The only way to really know is to load the trailer to the max and scale it. I absolutely would not want the ball/hitch combo to be the "weak link" and self destruct at 65mph. I'll do a little further looking into the payload. I'm afraid you're going to be in trouble there as well.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:34 PM   #12
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The payload value you're looking for is on the Yellow sticker. It will say something like "The weight of all passengers and cargo must not exceed #### lbs" or something similar. It will be in the neighborhood of 1,200 - 1,800 lbs. - but it really depends on your truck.

By the way, the "upgrades" you have on the truck need to be accounted for when looking at the max payload. For example, if the airbags weigh 50 lbs, then you've already used up 50 lbs of your available payload. The weight of your selected hitch will also reduce your available payload, etc.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:48 PM   #13
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There was a recent discussion about a wdh for a large trailer. I can't remember exactly but I think there were 2 that would handle the heavier loads. I think one was a Blue Ox?? You might search and see if you can find that. Having too much wdh (load carrying ability - not distribution) is far more preferable than not having enough.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:50 PM   #14
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Other than the reduction in payload, so it's not free capacity.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:51 PM   #15
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However, I also think extra capacity is a good thing (I don't want to give the wrong impression here...)
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAMPNDAD View Post
So i've got some upgrades. Airbags installed. The placard label reads 14k
the receiver hitch that was installed has a heavy duty rating of 2500lb tongue wt? I'm guessing that's what i'm allowed to tow on it? The rest of the label has been rubbed off. It says blue...something. However like i said the label is missing.
All those upgrades are nice to level your truck, but add nothing to the payload, actually subtract from it.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:43 PM   #17
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The VIN will allow any Ford dealership to provide you with the information regarding GVW, Payload, Max Towing, and if the receiver is OEM, the maximum trailer ratings for the hitch. Adding air bags, springs, sway bars, tires, shocks do nothing to the "legal payload rating" and many would question if it doesn't actually "detract" from the payload by adding weight to the truck's unloaded weight.

If I were you, I'd contact Ford and get the "real numbers"... Otherwise, weigh your truck, subtract that number from the GVW and that will tell you what's left for payload, passengers, cargo, accessories and tongue weight.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:51 PM   #18
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Aside from the fact that you may or may not be overloading the truck. I can say with out a doubt that the Anderson will work very well for you. I have a 38 ft travel trailer with a gvwr of 11200. Towed with a 2016 2500 Cummins ram and now with Ford F-250 gas. Either truck worked great with the Anderson. So easy to hook and with unhook compared to bars that way 50 lbs or more a piece. Hook it up figure out the best adjustment and roll on down the road. If it seats more than you like. Tighten the chains by one turn on each nut and sway will disappear. So easy to adjust to many different weight situations on how you are loaded
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:41 PM   #19
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Other than the reduction in payload, so it's not free capacity.
With an Equalizer the increase in weight distribution capacity from 1000lb bars to 1200 bars and then to 1400 lb. bars was negligible. Nothing changes except the bars and I really couldn't tell much difference. Now when I replaced the hitch shank for a larger dropped hitch...I could feel that one. I'm not familiar with the rest.
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:44 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Kylemcmahon1 View Post
Aside from the fact that you may or may not be overloading the truck. I can say with out a doubt that the Anderson will work very well for you. I have a 38 ft travel trailer with a gvwr of 11200. Towed with a 2016 2500 Cummins ram and now with Ford F-250 gas. Either truck worked great with the Anderson. So easy to hook and with unhook compared to bars that way 50 lbs or more a piece. Hook it up figure out the best adjustment and roll on down the road. If it seats more than you like. Tighten the chains by one turn on each nut and sway will disappear. So easy to adjust to many different weight situations on how you are loaded


One aspect is overloading the truck. Another one, and just as important, is overloading the Andersen hitch. It has a maximum weight bearing capacity of 1400 lbs. at the ball/hitch. In the OPs situation he could exceed that so, if that were the case, it's very possible it would NOT work out very well for him.
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