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Old 11-05-2018, 07:45 PM   #21
Getn off
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Perfect John, thank you.
No idea how to upload mult pics. When I put all 3 in the upload area and clicked upload, only 1 stayed. I am just happy they arent sideways any longer!
Appreciate the explaination of the inverter system. It makes sense.
Troy
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:35 AM   #22
Irv gates
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Samsung frig on Battery power

I talked to a dealer last year about the use of the Inverter full time and his infro gave me the idea that the system was not engineered to work full time on the inverter. He was telling me that the frig couldnt get down to the cold temps that were needed when it was on the inverter. The Manuf recommended that you use the inverter system only when going down the road and limiting the travel time to 8 hours to maintain the frig at its best cooling level.
I can see where its possible for the inverter to maintain only a small amount of the energy neeeded if its limitations are such to only keep the frig in a limited cooling state. The specs on the inverter would indicate to me the capacity of the inverter for running full time on it. I dont believe your batteries would handle a very long time period on the inverter unless you have shore power to charge them or solar panels.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:53 AM   #23
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I talked to a dealer last year about the use of the Inverter full time and his infro gave me the idea that the system was not engineered to work full time on the inverter. He was telling me that the frig couldnt get down to the cold temps that were needed when it was on the inverter. The Manuf recommended that you use the inverter system only when going down the road and limiting the travel time to 8 hours to maintain the frig at its best cooling level.
I can see where its possible for the inverter to maintain only a small amount of the energy neeeded if its limitations are such to only keep the frig in a limited cooling state. The specs on the inverter would indicate to me the capacity of the inverter for running full time on it. I dont believe your batteries would handle a very long time period on the inverter unless you have shore power to charge them or solar panels.
Sorry but that makes no sense. Think about it, the inverter provides AC Voltage and a number of watts (amps) to operate the refer. the refer doesnt care where the power comes from, just that it gets a minumion amount and the inverter surely is rated for that. Maybe the ice maker will overload the sytem but I'm skepical of that too.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:59 AM   #24
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Thanks guys.
It is not used while parked on the road. Just the fridge. Batts are fully charged. I keep them plugged in while parked next to my garage at all times.
Just got nervous while it was going to be parked without power and didnt want to unpack the fridge.
Troy
If not opened it should easily last all night. Jmo
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Old 11-11-2018, 12:45 PM   #25
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I read this thread with great interest as I have a unit with the Residetial fridge. Mine came with 1 series 27 house battery and after complaining to the dealer was given another. From the separate house battery compartment there are + and - connections to the front belly to connect to the the inverter and fridge battery. Therefore, in my setup it will draw from both batteries if not connected to shore power. Both John and Chuckster57 were bang on with there responses. I replaced my belly battery with 4 deep cell Golf Cart Batteries. Also installed a Blue Sea shut off switch so I can power the fridge separate from the house battery. I turn on the fridge inverter only when traveling and I make sure that the ice maker is turned off. This makes a huge difference in battery usage. Also recommend that while hooked up set freezer on a higher temperature (-18C) before you leave on your trip and turn it up when you start trip. This way your fridge will not have to work as hard to maintain temperature on the road. The key with these fridges and lead acid batteries is to make sure you do not drain them below 50 % of their capacity which will shorten their useful life. As an aside, I carry a Honda generator and have a separate Progressive Industries converter to charge my batteries. Next step will likely be solar as they are the best option for charging and maintaining batteries at their peak and extend their life. We love our residential fridge.
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Old 11-11-2018, 01:18 PM   #26
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Regarding the inverter and the residential fridge: Irv, "the system was not engineered to work full time on the inverter. He was telling me that the frig couldn't get down to the cold temps that were needed when it was on the inverter"
That statement is simply false. Your dealer has gotten some bum info or he/she was trying to BS someone to get out of fixing the problem.
Turn off the ice maker and head down the road....
On edit: I see Chuckster already covered this.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:01 PM   #27
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I'm glad you posted this because I was actually thinking about getting a residential fridge in my next 5th wheel upgrade. But I'm beginning to think that is a big pain in the butt as the inverter battery thing would not make it very much fun to do much boondocking. And in my world that's the whole point of having a camper not to be plugged into a Campground all the time. So thank you, in a roundabout way you just made up my mind for me that I will just stick with your generic old Dometic propane slash 50 amp plug in RV fridge
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:41 PM   #28
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George1,

Take a look at the owner's manual for Keystone RV's, 2019 edition, page 44:
"Refrigerator-Residential Style
By design, these refrigerators will not operate properly when indoor air temperatures exceed approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition, operating the refrigerator in these conditions could cause compressor failure which may not be considered warrantable. Leave the air conditioner set at a temperature below this if the refrigerator is left running in a vehicle that is not being used or shut it off."

Living around south Texas will put a significant limitation on towing with the refrigerator operating (interior RV temp will be well above 110F on a hot, sunny day and trying to boondock, not only will the battery limit your ability to operate the refrigerator, but even if you have a generator to provide power, unless your generator is big enough to also air condition the coach, you risk damaging your refrigerator cooling system if you're boondocking in "summer temps"....

That statement has been in the owner's manual for the past 5 or 6 years, so it's not new, just something many people either ignore or haven't seen. Towing a "residential refrigerator" through the desert in July, even with 4 batteries and all the extra power the tow vehicle can provide, unless you're also running the air conditioner, you risk damage to your refrigerator.....

There are some significant limitations to residential stuff in a travel trailer.
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:19 AM   #29
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I don't think anyone addressed the other part of your OP, It is OK to turn the inverter off anytime you have shore power, it is bypassed when you're plugged in anyway. Just don't forget to turn it back on when you hitch up and go.
We keep our RV on a permanent lot and it is always plugged in. I do leave the inverter on just in case there is a power failure at the campground. The batteries will keep the fridge running for 8-10 hours and we've never had a power outage that long.
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Old 11-13-2018, 03:04 PM   #30
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I don't think anyone addressed the other part of your OP, It is OK to turn the inverter off anytime you have shore power, it is bypassed when you're plugged in anyway. Just don't forget to turn it back on when you hitch up and go.
Good information,, thanks
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Old 11-17-2018, 05:36 PM   #31
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We have a 2019 Montana high country 5er with a Samsung residential fridge. We like to leave the door open to vent the fridge when in storage however, the internal lights stay on when the doors are open. Does anyone know how to deactivate the light while power is off and the doors are open?
Thanks for any feedback,
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:11 PM   #32
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I am guessing u may still have the inverter on if the light is on...meaning u still have power to the fridge.
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:35 PM   #33
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Thanks for the reply!
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Old 12-02-2018, 06:44 PM   #34
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I have a Sprinter TT with the Samsung Fridge. I installed 2 Group 29 batteries and I don't have any problems with 24hrs. I haven't tested it past that so I don't know. A lot depends on the temp in the camper. To turn the unit off you have to throw the breaker and turn the inverter off or it will still run.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:17 PM   #35
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Thanks for the feedback. But I think you may have an isue with how your inverter is wired. You should just push the red button and it will turn off the ac power to the fridge. You do have to hold it a sec or two. If the lights go out, you shouldnt have to trip any breakers. Unless mine is wired wrong!
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Old 12-03-2018, 04:36 PM   #36
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I have a Sprinter TT with the Samsung Fridge. I installed 2 Group 29 batteries and I don't have any problems with 24hrs. ....
When you ran your refrigerator on the two GP 29 batteries, what was the battery charge level/end voltage after the 24 hours? I ask because if your batteries are typical "marine deep cycle batteries", most manufacturers recommend not discharging beyond 70% to prolong life. That equates to a battery voltage of around 12.3 volts. Many inverters will operate down to about 11.5 volts before they shut down from low input voltage. 11.8 VDC equates to a battery charge level of around 30%. Discharging "marine deep cycle batteries" to that low level repeatedly will shorten their usable life significantly.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:38 PM   #37
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Thanks for the feedback. But I think you may have an isue with how your inverter is wired. You should just push the red button and it will turn off the ac power to the fridge. You do have to hold it a sec or two. If the lights go out, you shouldnt have to trip any breakers. Unless mine is wired wrong!
Troy
My TT has a automatic parallel switch that lets the 110 from shore power thru on priority. When the shore power goes out it switches to the inverter. So the only way to shut the fridge down completely is kill the 110 and the inverter.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:53 PM   #38
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When you ran your refrigerator on the two GP 29 batteries, what was the battery charge level/end voltage after the 24 hours? I ask because if your batteries are typical "marine deep cycle batteries", most manufacturers recommend not discharging beyond 70% to prolong life. That equates to a battery voltage of around 12.3 volts. Many inverters will operate down to about 11.5 volts before they shut down from low input voltage. 11.8 VDC equates to a battery charge level of around 30%. Discharging "marine deep cycle batteries" to that low level repeatedly will shorten their usable life significantly.
I didn't check the batteries after but I will make it a point to next time I travel with it. I bought the Duracell Gel cell batteries from Sams Club to replace the original group 24 batteries. I normally only use the inverter while traveling and stay in a campground every night that I can. Work is taking me to Savannah right after the new year but it is only about 5 hours. I will get a battery reading when I get there and post it but with the cool weather I don't think it will use much. Hot weather seems to use the most battery which is understandable.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:59 PM   #39
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I didn't check the batteries after but I will make it a point to next time I travel with it. I bought the Duracell Gel cell batteries from Sams Club to replace the original group 24 batteries. I normally only use the inverter while traveling and stay in a campground every night that I can. Work is taking me to Savannah right after the new year but it is only about 5 hours. I will get a battery reading when I get there and post it but with the cool weather I don't think it will use much. Hot weather seems to use the most battery which is understandable.
I'd be very interested in how much drain you have on your batteries and how low they go. If you can run 24 hours and keep them above 70% then you'll probably be "golden"... That said, if you're discharging them to less than 50% every time you tow, they probably won't last much past the warranty period. Something to consider, for sure.....
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:09 PM   #40
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My TT has a automatic parallel switch that lets the 110 from shore power thru on priority. When the shore power goes out it switches to the inverter. So the only way to shut the fridge down completely is kill the 110 and the inverter.
Yes, that is what I meant. The fridge will run off the inverter when on and no other power supplying. If shore power, it will use that and bypass the inverter. If you pull shore power and have the inverter switched off, it will not supply power to the fridge.
Troy
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