Tow vehicle tire pressure

[slow]

Originally Posted by jmart273

Agree and that's crazy Ford wouldn't change it for you guys. I just set mine to 55 front and 45 rear, with the intention of pressing up the rear to 65 when towing my 5er. Now "low tire pressure" flashes at me... I don't like that. So I'm just going to figure out what that set point is and bring my tires to that point.

I guess I tried.

At 50 psi mine does not flash. That was the tire pressure for all tires when I took delivery of the F250. That would mean the low set point is at least 25% below the recommended pressure.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by cardinal96ss

I inflate the tires to the pressures listed on the door tag. Never lower. Tire wear is as expected except for a misalignment issue about 10K miles back on one tire.
bsmith0404- Did I read your post correctly, that you inflate the rear dually tires to 80 PSI when towing?

Yes. I know that inflating them to max gives me over 11,000 of load capacity and is a bit overkill with approximately 7,000 on my rear axle, but I found that I have an even contact patch and normal wear so that is what I run. That also provides less rolling resistance which improves fuel economy, but more importantly, reduces heat build up. Heat is a tires greatest enemy....other than road debris.

[darrylwt]

I run 70 PSI in the front and 80 PSI in the back all the time towing 5th Wheel or just running around without trailer.

[concours]

I don't know about Ford and Dodge but on the GM's the TPMS pressure range can be reprogrammed by the dealer the dealer can go into the BCM and set the TPMS window from the default which is 70psi to as low as 60 psi. which enables you to run at lower pressures when empty. You will have to find someone at the Dealership that is knowledgeable as the average Service Adviser will tell you it can't be done.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Yes. I know that inflating them to max gives me over 11,000 of load capacity and is a bit overkill with approximately 7,000 on my rear axle, but I found that I have an even contact patch and normal wear so that is what I run. That also provides less rolling resistance which improves fuel economy, but more importantly, reduces heat build up. Heat is a tires greatest enemy....other than road debris.

^^^That^^^

As mentioned previously in the thread, contact patch is the key, and air pressure is the means. For me, 65/50 unloaded and 65/80 towing. Good handling, good tire wear and a good ride. No TV TPMS. Temps under differing conditions verified by an infra red temp gun (from HF on sale).

Trailer tires are a different story. Always at 80psi for LRE (Maxxis in my case), balanced with metal stems and TPMS monitored along with said infra red gun.

Each tire size and load range will require a different pressure combination...and the sticker isn't always correct for the task.

[Ken / Claudia]

The F250 was a 2008. Back than ford would not change the TPMS. I had the yellow light on everyday I worked for 2 years.

[66joej]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

The F250 was a 2008. Back than ford would not change the TPMS. I had the yellow light on everyday I worked for 2 years.

I supervised the Post Garage in Surrey BC when I worked for the RCMP. We had what seemed like a real problem with the traction control on the Crown Vics. As you can imagine when maneuvers were made by a member to turn around in a pursuit they couldn't spin through the ditch to the other lane. Ford would not authorize disabling this option so we simply did it ourselves. The next year Ford had a switch on the dash for this option. By the way this was back in the mid 90s. I'm sure Oregon State Patrol had similar cars. I digress.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by 66joej

I supervised the Post Garage in Surrey BC when I worked for the RCMP. We had what seemed like a real problem with the traction control on the Crown Vics. As you can imagine when maneuvers were made by a member to turn around in a pursuit they couldn't spin through the ditch to the other lane. Ford would not authorize disabling this option so we simply did it ourselves. The next year Ford had a switch on the dash for this option. By the way this was back in the mid 90s. I'm sure Oregon State Patrol had similar cars. I digress.

OMG!!! VOIDING THE WARRANTY?

My kind of guy.

[Ken / Claudia]

Fleet vehicles for the most part do not have any warranty. They do get recall fix's. I asked about that early on in my career. As I had tranny failures on a new car, actually or the years many problems large or small. We would dead line the vehicle and many times never knew how or what was fixed or replaced. In more recent times they may have gotten warranty coverage but, I doubt it the way fleet vehicles are taken care of. Think about a new vehicle with less than 100 hundred miles on it. Being driven at speeds over 100 mph. Which for us during a night shift was not uncommon. I can tell you what the top speed is for over every vehicle I was assigned. Not saying it was fun to do. It was needed to be done.

[jmart273]

So I figured it out without going to the dealer and getting the pressure settings reduced (which according to guys in the power stroke forums hardly any dealer will do for you). I followed the procedure for resetting the TPMS in the ford manual. You should do this whenever you rotate your tires, since the settings in the front are lower than the rear.

Instead of starting the procedure at the driver front tire and working clockwise, I started at the passenger rear, and worked clockwise. So the TPMS system thinks my rear tires are my front, and vice versa. The set point is at least 25%, probably closer to 30%. I am currently running 60 in the front, 50 in the rear, no TPMS lights on at all. When I dropped the rear down to 45, the light went on. When I hook up, I will press the rear up to 75, which is plenty for my RV.

Of note, since dropping my rear air pressure to 50 down from the door sticker crazy mandate of 80, I have noticed a drastic difference in ride quality. I haven't done the chalk test yet since it won't stop raining/snowing, but I suspect that it will show a much better wear pattern on my tires too.

[CWtheMan]

Tire inflation pressures for vehicles such as pick-up trucks is a subject with numerous points of view.

A lot of owners are going to modify their truck’s inflation pressures based on inputs from the tire industry. Nothing wrong with that as long as you stay within the safety guidelines.

The safety guidelines are simple. For original equipment tires, use the recommended inflation pressures found on the tire placard and in the vehicle owner’s manual. Any deviations will be found in the vehicle owner’s manual. The only time increased inflation pressures are needed is when your truck is overloaded.

There are no clear cut guidelines for using inflation pressures above recommendations and below maximum allowable. However, there is no excuse for using inflation pressures below vehicle manufacturer recommendations. Tire industry standards found in every major tire industry SOP manual will say, for OE tires; “never use less inflation pressure than what has been recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.” Why, you might ask. Because the vehicle manufacturer has sole responsibility for setting those pressures and they are deemed appropriate.

When plus sized tires are used their recommended inflation pressures are derived from the amount of load capacity provided by the OE tires, via inflation pressures.

[bsmith0404]

No offense CW, but after the crap Ford went through in the 90s with the Explorer, I don't have much faith in the vehicle manufacturer recommendations. As you know, they recommended a lower pressure than Firestone because it provided a better ride. That led to many blowouts and accidents. I'm sure the vehicle manufacturers are now looking more at safety when it comes to their recommendation, but sales still drives their business and I don't trust my safety to their greed. I prefer to look at what the tire manufacturer recommends and then watch the contact patch and wear characteristics of my tires, it has worked well for me for 30 yrs.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

I'm sure the vehicle manufacturers are now looking more at safety when it comes to their recommendation.

And that's a fact.

The FMVSS regulations (standards) directs vehicle manufacturers to provide load capacity reserves for your truck's tires. They do it with inflation pressures from load inflation tables provided by TRA via the tire manufacturer.

The current FMVSS regulations were amended in 2007.

[the sodfather]

I'll stick with the recommendations on the tire and common sense. If you feel the need to adjust your computer for different pressures through the sensors, I'm sure any of the decent computer programmers (Bulldog, Hypertech, Edge etc.) can set your min and max pressure, heck, maybe even turn off the sensors...

[sourdough]

I think it's just CYA from the manufacturer. My Ram 2500 calls for 80psi in the rear. That's the max pressure for the tire for max load. I drive it unloaded 85% of the time therefore I don't see that I have any possible need for max pressure all the time.....so, I use 65 psi unloaded and things work great. I figure the manufacturer doesn't want to mess with various weight/inflation combo so just tells you max pressure to relieve them of any liability.

[EVMIII]

Here's what I got from Michelin after I put on the Michelin Defenders. I'm running 65 and 60 around town. I run 75 and 70 when towing

Bud

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

For tire size LT235/85R16 LRE on your dually, daily driving would be 60 psi front and 55 psi rear.

Psi for towing would depend on additional weight transferred to the vehicle from the trailer. Following are load/psi capacities for size LT235/85R16 LRE:

55 psi = 2335 lbs

60 psi = 2485 lbs.

65 psi = 2623 lbs.

70 psi = 2765 lbs.

75 psi = 2905 lbs.

80 psi = 3042 lbs.

Remember to check the psi when the tires are cold.

We hope that your issue has been resolved or addressed to your satisfaction. If we can assist you further, please respond to this email or call us at 866-866-6605 (toll-free) between 8:00 a.m. and 8:00 p.m. EST Monday through Friday or between 8:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. EST on Saturday.

We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing Michelin.

Sincerely,
Dale
Consumer Care Department
Certified Michelin Product Expert

[Desert185]

CW,

I have 285/75-16's with a load rating higher than the stock 265/75-16's. With the rears aired down to 50psi, the ride is better, I'm within the load rating of the tire at that PSI, the wear is even, the rear tire temperature is the same as the fronts at 65psi...and the best part...I have demonstrated common sense in spite of nanny state directions otherwise that don't take into account all situations.

...and yes, the wheels are within the correct spec width for the tires.

[JRTJH]

This might seem too basic, but remember it comes from someone who walked barefoot on a gravel road to the swimming hole on the Tangiaphoa River as a kid....

There's a sign on the side of the highway that says: SPEED LIMIT 70

That doesn't mean you have to go that fast or that you can't adjust your speed to fit a particular situation, just don't go faster than 70.

I take the "recommended tire pressure" posted on the door jamb much the same way. At GVW, use what Ford suggests, but adjust to fit a particular situation.

Maybe I just don't see all the overly technical data and all the concern to be worth the trouble? I weighed my truck with the trailer hitched, divided the front axle and the rear axle by 2 and got the weight on each tire, looked it up in the tire manufacturer's guide and run that pressure. I also weighed the truck empty, did the same "high math" and "figgered the empty pressure". Made me happy. Oh, that was in 1972, it's worked without a problem so far, I don't see much motivation to change.

[CWtheMan]

This reference contains the information for the "RIGHT WAY". If you use other methods you are probably a very savvy, out of work", tire engineer.

http://www.mcgeecompany.com/wp-conte...ete-manual.pdf

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

This reference contains the information for the "RIGHT WAY". If you use other methods you are probably a very savvy, out of work", tire engineer.

http://www.mcgeecompany.com/wp-conte...ete-manual.pdf

Lots of good info there...also a lot of scary warnings and cautions.

It used to be that one could not cross rotate radial tires, front to rear same side only. I noticed there is no prohibition on that rotation method any longer.