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07-05-2016, 05:55 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 162
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Adding a cargo carrier to the rear of the camper
Several months ago, I purchased a cargo carrier from a local store. It sat in the box, in my garage until yesterday. I finally decided to assemble it, and mount it on the camper. This carrier is meant to be folded when not being used, but the spare tire is in the way. I can move the spare tire to one side, but I didn't realize was how large the cargo carrier was. It expands almost the entire width of the bumper, so even with the tire to one side, it would still be in the way. Also, I didn't realize that the cargo carrier required a 2" receiver. I can get a 1 1/4" to 2" adapter, but the longest that I found is 10" in length. I'm not sure if that will be long enough to get beyond the spare tire.
For the most part, I only intend to put coolers on the carrier, but I have a generator that I will occasionally put on the carrier. Cooler / generator combined weight would probably be less that 100 pounds, so I really don't weight to be an issue.
Has anyone dealt with this? If so, how did you resolve it?
Thanks
Daryl
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Daryl Rose
2018 Ram BigHorn EcoDiesel
2012 272RK Outback
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07-05-2016, 06:05 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Saint Louis
Posts: 235
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You can install a BAL Hide-A-Spare and relocate the tire.
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2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited
2014 Passport 2510RB
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07-05-2016, 06:26 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkohler70
You can install a BAL Hide-A-Spare and relocate the tire.
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I like it. I think that I'll look into doing just that.
Thank you for the information.
Daryl
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Daryl Rose
2018 Ram BigHorn EcoDiesel
2012 272RK Outback
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07-05-2016, 07:06 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Liberty, Texas
Posts: 5,036
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I carried my spare in the storage bay for quite a while, I had to move it from the under frame carrier because it would drag getting in my driveway.
I would say be very careful how much weight you put in the carrier. The bumper is very thin and just spot welded to the frame. I would suggest you get an experienced welder to "weld out" the existing spot welds. I would also try to add some buttress braces.
You may also look at adjustable receivers that attach to the frame.
Be aware when you modify anything on the frame you may void the warranty regarding the frame.
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2018 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW LWB 4X4 Cummins Aisin 3.73
Reese Goosebox 20K
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4 LB Cabover
2023 CanAm Defender SXS
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07-05-2016, 07:38 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Pa
Posts: 75
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I was talking to a guy at a frame shop and he told me he has repaired 100's of frames/rear bumpers because people add bike carriers or cargo carriers to the bumper. DONT DO IT!
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2013 Laredo 240MK
2008 F250 4x4 lariat 5.4
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07-05-2016, 08:10 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 380
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Ive been thinking about adding a bolt on reciever and cargo carrier for our generator. Makes sence, it it the furthest from the bed room and the electrical cord is in the rear of the trailer. Just have been concerned about weight on the bumper. Guess I need to take a close look at the welds.
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2016 Passport 2890RL
2007 GMC Sierra 1500
Reese 26000 Weight Distribution and Sway Control
Champion 2800/3100 Inverter Generator
American Ranger Auto Gyro
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07-05-2016, 08:27 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,998
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This quote is from the Curt 19100 "bumper hitch":
"***DO NOT EXCEED VEHICLE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDED TOWING CAPACITY.***
WARNING: ALL NON-TRAILER LOADS APPLIED TO THIS PRODUCT MUST BE SUPPORTED BY 18050 STABILIZING STRAPS
HAVING INSTALLATION QUESTIONS? CALL TECHNICAL SUPPORT AT 1-800-798-0813"
http://www.curtmfg.com/part/19100 If you compare the Curt hitch to the one in your picture, you'll see that the Curt model appears to be a more "robust" type hitch, but I don't know if it's actually stronger or built better, just the appearance looks better....
A couple of comments, first, Keystone doesn't post a "recommended towing capacity' so there's no way to know if you're exceeding it or not. Same with Lippert, who manufactures the actual trailer chassis.
Second, using a "cargo carrier" is a "non-trailer load" and would require "supporting/stabilizing straps. I'm not sure, with your configuration, where you'd attach the support straps to the cargo carrier/bumper hitch assembly.
You might want to call Curt at the number in the above quote and discuss your ideas with them. They may "give you blessings" or they may urge you not to use that type hitch on a Lippert bumper.... If you do contact them, would you please share their comments with the forum?
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-05-2016, 09:26 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 308
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I don't know about hundreds of frame repair but many of the new RVs come with racks and hitches. If I was going to put one on my 5er I would contact Lippert since they make several solutions to carriers and bike racks on their website that fits their frames. Here is a link to the some of the products they sell to the public.
https://store.lci1.com/products/stor...english&cat=72
Here is one that mounts to the bumper on Lippert's page.
https://store.lci1.com/class-1-bike-...side-bumper-mt
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Current
2017 Fleetwood Discovery 40D Class A Diesel Pusher
Past
2016 GMC Denila 1 ton Diesel CC 3722
2017 Grand Design Solitude 310GK-R
Montana 3711FL Front Living Room 5er
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07-05-2016, 10:38 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead
I carried my spare in the storage bay for quite a while, I had to move it from the under frame carrier because it would drag getting in my driveway.
I would say be very careful how much weight you put in the carrier. The bumper is very thin and just spot welded to the frame. I would suggest you get an experienced welder to "weld out" the existing spot welds. I would also try to add some buttress braces.
You may also look at adjustable receivers that attach to the frame.
Be aware when you modify anything on the frame you may void the warranty regarding the frame.
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Were you using the "BAL Hide-A-Spare" when you were caring it under the frame or a different solution?
My camper has a 1 1/4" hitch receiver. That is where I am planning on mounting the cargo carrier, not attaching it to the bumper, as is suggested on other posting within this thread.
Also as I said, I am not planning on putting a lot of weight on the carrier, mostly coolers. We always have a cooler or two filled with stuff, and I think that it'll be easier to put on the carrier than trying to stuff in the camper. The bed of the truck is filled with other things, so I normally don't put the cooler in the back of the truck.
Daryl
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Daryl Rose
2018 Ram BigHorn EcoDiesel
2012 272RK Outback
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07-06-2016, 01:15 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: oregon
Posts: 73
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Who says you have to fold the rack up? Leave it down even if your not using it that way you can leave your tire where it is.
So you must have a 1 1/4" receiver already? Personally I would upgrade that to a 2" instead of trying to reduce the rack down to a 1 1/4".
It would be a good idea to beef up your bumper supports also anti rattle for the reciever.
Check out this link and scroll down til you get to my post and what I did for my cargo carrier.
PS: You want to stop your bumper from rusting and falling off "get the stinky slinky out of it"
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...t=24269&page=2
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07-06-2016, 01:55 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 380
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Thank you 1/243.
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2016 Passport 2890RL
2007 GMC Sierra 1500
Reese 26000 Weight Distribution and Sway Control
Champion 2800/3100 Inverter Generator
American Ranger Auto Gyro
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07-06-2016, 03:06 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Liberty, Texas
Posts: 5,036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosede
Were you using the "BAL Hide-A-Spare" when you were caring it under the frame or a different solution?
My camper has a 1 1/4" hitch receiver. That is where I am planning on mounting the cargo carrier, not attaching it to the bumper, as is suggested on other posting within this thread.
Also as I said, I am not planning on putting a lot of weight on the carrier, mostly coolers. We always have a cooler or two filled with stuff, and I think that it'll be easier to put on the carrier than trying to stuff in the camper. The bed of the truck is filled with other things, so I normally don't put the cooler in the back of the truck.
Daryl
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I don't know what brand it is. I took the spare off as soon as I got home. I had to lay lumber at the end of my driveway to get the 5th out of the street. I wouldn't want the spare up under there anyway. I had a weld shop fabricate a new .250" wall thickness bumper. I made a spare tire mount out of scrap metal and mounted the spare on the new bumper. Put a tire cover on it and it stays clean. I posted pics here somewhere.
I think some of us missed the fact that you said your trailer has a factory equipped receiver. I did. There should be some info from Keystone regarding how much weight you can carry. Call them and ask.
Those hitch tube extensions usually come with a warning that they reduce the weight carrying capacity of the hitch by a certain percent. I used one 30 years ago on our Class C MH to clear the spare. Pulled a tandem low boy trailer back and forth to Colorado. No issues but I didn't have clue what I was doing.
No doubt it will be easier, but...
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2018 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW LWB 4X4 Cummins Aisin 3.73
Reese Goosebox 20K
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4 LB Cabover
2023 CanAm Defender SXS
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07-06-2016, 03:45 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Fruitland
Posts: 3,357
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Sounds like adding a rack to the rear is what your going to do. Since I see stuff mounted to the bumpers or rear of RVs sometimes daily. Many if not most are bouncing just like a JO-JO. Have someone follow you a few miles and get real input as to the safety of the stuff you put on there before it bounces off or breaks. I am not saying it will fail, just check it out with someone watching the first time.
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2013 24RKSWE (27ft TT) Cougar 1/2 ton series SOLD 10-2021
2013 Ford F350 4x4 CC 6.7 engine, 8 ft bed, 3.55 rear end, lariat package
Retired from Oregon State Police in 2011 than worked another 9.5 years as a small town traffic cop:
As of 05-2020, I am all done with 39 years total police work. No more uniforms for me.
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07-08-2016, 04:42 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1l243
Who says you have to fold the rack up? Leave it down even if your not using it that way you can leave your tire where it is.
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My storage yard. I cannot have anything hang over into to the grass, and I'm already at the edge of my storage spot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1l243
So you must have a 1 1/4" receiver already? Personally I would upgrade that to a 2" instead of trying to reduce the rack down to a 1 1/4".
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I've been considering doing just this, but the current receiver is welded on, and I would have to go to somewhere and have it replaced. It would be easier to use an adapter to go from 1 1/4" to 2".
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1l243
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I'll review the link. Thank you.
Daryl
__________________
Daryl Rose
2018 Ram BigHorn EcoDiesel
2012 272RK Outback
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07-08-2016, 04:54 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Saginaw Mn
Posts: 1,732
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The rear bumpers on these campers are very thin and are not intended to hold any weight. It's the bouncing down the road that causes most of the damage. Also there isn't much holding the bumper to the frame if you look. Just a couple of small welds. I have seen a lot of rear bumpers tore off because of added weight so be very careful about adding anything with out beefing up the bumper.
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2012 Keystone Retreat 39 FDEN
99 Dodge One Ton Diesel Dually
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07-09-2016, 03:14 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: oregon
Posts: 73
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I think the struts would be a big help. You should check out my link.. I made my own struts. Click on link and scroll down till you get to my post and pics
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...t=24269&page=2
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07-09-2016, 03:25 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: oregon
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosede
My storage yard. I cannot have anything hang over into to the grass, and I'm already at the edge of my storage spot.
I've been considering doing just this, but the current receiver is welded on, and I would have to go to somewhere and have it replaced. It would be easier to use an adapter to go from 1 1/4" to 2".
I'll review the link. Thank you.
Daryl
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Well then you going to have to get that spare tire off the bumper. Getting ride of the extra weight would be a good idea anyway.. Will it fit in your storage? I was looking at the BAL rack that is pretty cool.
How is it welded to the bumper? is it welded to the sheet metal of the bumper or does it have a wide bracket that is welded to the bumper?
If you have to use a hitch adapter I would put two bolts through the 1 1/4 shaft to stop it from wobbling or moving. and then I would use the anti rattle posted in my link for the 2" receiver.
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07-09-2016, 03:30 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: oregon
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spicercars
The rear bumpers on these campers are very thin and are not intended to hold any weight. It's the bouncing down the road that causes most of the damage. Also there isn't much holding the bumper to the frame if you look. Just a couple of small welds. I have seen a lot of rear bumpers tore off because of added weight so be very careful about adding anything with out beefing up the bumper.
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I think what causes a lot of the damage is the sewer hose being stored in the bumper and rusting it out over time. I have never seen a actual failure but have seen a couple of pictures of bumper failures and they primarily rusted out.
If course everything has it's limits. I did see a guy the other day with a motorcycle rack on the back of his 24 foot travel trailer with a 800lb motorcycle on it! I don't think I would want to follow him.
Beef it up stop the wobble and within reason you can carry a couple of bicycle back there..
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07-09-2016, 03:53 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Las Cruces
Posts: 4,665
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My concern is that you don't know if this is a class I or II hitch. The most you can have for tongue weight with a class I is 200 lbs and a class II is 300 lb. I know you do not plan to put much weight on the carrier, but the bouncing that takes place at the back of the RV could cause a failure with a class II hitch even with only 100 lbs on it. I would get a class III or IV installed. Yes your current hitch is welded on, but that can be fixed quickly with a cutting wheel. Leave the plates in place where they are welded to the frame and add a new hitch.
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Brent
2013 Alpine 3500RE
2019 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
U.S. Air Force Retired (25 yrs)
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