Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > General RV Issues
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 01-13-2018, 09:13 AM   #1
jsmith948
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 1,888
Coroplast fasteners

Hello all. I hope someone can help.
Looking around under the 5er yesterday at how I might route power from an inverter to the entertainment/outside kitchen slide. I noticed that the fasteners attaching the Coroplast to the frame look like they were installed with a "Hilti" gun. The same seems to be true for the fasteners used to attach the bedroom floor to the frame in the front storage compartment. The portion of the fastener that is visible from the front compartment looks like a nail - no threads. The heads of these fasteners don't seem to have a hex head that would allow for them to be unscrewed. I was wondering if anyone else has any first hand knowledge/experience with this type of fastener?
I can see how they would speed construction and would eliminate the accidental over torquing and stripping common with self drilling/tapping screws, but, how would one remove these fasteners to gain access to Geo's world?
Thanks in advance for any help from the forum.
__________________

__________________

Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
jsmith948 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 09:52 AM   #2
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 13,483
There were a couple of threads back in 2015 and 2016 about Keystone's use of "nail type fasteners" to secure the coroplast. Most of the "solutions" to gaining access involved grinding the heads off the existing fasteners, lowering the coroplast, cutting the remainder of the fastener at the frame level and when reinstalling, either using self tapping screws with washers on the head or if the "business end" is visible, drilling holes, installing bolts with nylock nuts. I don't remember anyone developing a means to remove the "nail gun fasteners" short of cutting or grinding them off the frame.
__________________

__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 11:27 AM   #3
jsmith948
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 1,888
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
There were a couple of threads back in 2015 and 2016 about Keystone's use of "nail type fasteners" to secure the coroplast. Most of the "solutions" to gaining access involved grinding the heads off the existing fasteners, lowering the coroplast, cutting the remainder of the fastener at the frame level and when reinstalling, either using self tapping screws with washers on the head or if the "business end" is visible, drilling holes, installing bolts with nylock nuts. I don't remember anyone developing a means to remove the "nail gun fasteners" short of cutting or grinding them off the frame.
Thanks for the response. That is what I was thinking. I'm thinking these fasteners are pretty hard. Probably too hard to drill out. Probably best to move over an inch and install a self tapping screw.
Don't like the idea of adding more holes in the flange of the frame.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
__________________

Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
jsmith948 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 11:54 AM   #4
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 8,119
Coroplast fasteners

I use a small crowbar. Get between the frame and coroplast. Put the notch where the “nail” is and use the washer as a pry point. Save the washer and use self taping screws in the same hole.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 12:39 PM   #5
jsmith948
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 1,888
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I use a small crowbar. Get between the frame and coroplast. Put the notch where the “nail” is and use the washer as a pry point. Save the washer and use self taping screws in the same hole.
Okay ! I'll try that. Not sure yet if I'm going to have to remove the fasteners. Just looking ahead.
Thanks for the tip.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
__________________

Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
jsmith948 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2018, 06:14 AM   #6
Ddubya
Senior Member
 
Ddubya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Sherman
Posts: 259
Ditto on the crow bar. Works great
__________________
2017 Alpine 3401RS,Titan Disc,Morryde SRE 4000, 2016 Ram 3500HD Laramie SRW,LWB,4X4, Aisin transmission

Ddubya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2018, 06:35 AM   #7
rhagfo
Senior Member
 
rhagfo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,476
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I use a small crowbar. Get between the frame and coroplast. Put the notch where the “nail” is and use the washer as a pry point. Save the washer and use self taping screws in the same hole.
Interesting does it take much force to pop them out??

Ours had an open belly when we bought it, but I inclosed it with coroplast and the Mylar foil bubble insulation, I used self drilling hex headed screws with fender washers.
__________________
Russ & Paula
The Beagles Belle and Precious.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
2001 Dodge 2500 5.9 CTD, 5 sp, Pacbrake, DS Power Puck, Bilstien 5100's, Just 311K.
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
https://s1191.photobucket.com/albums...Smaller5th.jpg
rhagfo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2018, 05:01 AM   #8
Ddubya
Senior Member
 
Ddubya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Sherman
Posts: 259
Not hard at all to remove. Then replace with self drilling bolts using the same hole.
__________________
2017 Alpine 3401RS,Titan Disc,Morryde SRE 4000, 2016 Ram 3500HD Laramie SRW,LWB,4X4, Aisin transmission

Ddubya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2018, 05:24 AM   #9
Tinner12002
Senior Member
 
Tinner12002's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,054
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhagfo View Post
Interesting does it take much force to pop them out??

Ours had an open belly when we bought it, but I inclosed it with coroplast and the Mylar foil bubble insulation, I used self drilling hex headed screws with fender washers.
Based on what I know about nail gun pins, they don't come out very easily, especially in steel, cutting heads off then cutting the rest of the exposed pin off is about all you can do unless you can get to the backside then you might be able to tap them out.
__________________
2015 Ram,3500,Dually,B&W,4.10s,Aisin,Limited,Silver
2018 Raptor,428SP w/full body paint
2012 Harley, Ultra Limited
Tinner12002 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2018, 06:40 AM   #10
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 13,483
Steve,

I agree with you about nail guns and steel. From what I've experienced, the nail gun "dimples the steel" inward which creates a lip sealing the nail to the steel hole. Pulling it out deforms the steel and, from what happens with me, often snaps off the head or breaks the shank. What I've found most effective, but definitely much more time consuming, is to either grind the head off or cut the shank with a hacksaw/grinder wheel. Then, once the area is clean and the coroplast is down, use a center punch and drive the nail on through. That leaves a cleaner hole and gets rid of the "dissimilar metal" issue which can cause rust/corrosion in the future.

While this is more time consuming and harder to do, it works for me. Honestly, I don't think any of it is really "rocket science" and probably won't make a lot of difference either way (using a crowbar or a grinder) for me, I just don't like extra "stuff" stuck in the frame and I don't like the crushed coroplast from using a pry bar against it. That's just my preference, the coroplast probably isn't hurt or non-functional, it just doesn't look nice when the job is finished.
__________________

__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.