Coroplast fasteners

[MickLittle]

I noticed the other day while crawling under my RV that the fasteners used to attach the coroplast (Hope that's the correct name)to the frame are powder actuated pin fasteners! (Not screws) Does anyone have this as well or am I the only RV that has them. Looks like I wont be accessing behind it anytime soon!
On another note; I really enjoy this site for all the questions and answers. Love to read all the posts!!!

[JRTJH]

I've never seen a Keystone with that type of fastener on the coroplast, and I've been under a bunch of them..... Those fasteners are used to fasten the flooring to the frame and, in some fifth wheels, to fasten the aluminum superstructure to the frame outriggers and upper decking, but I've never seen them used as you indicate. Come to think about it, there's no way to gauge how tight they push into the coroplast and being plastic, it has a tendency to break when squeezed too tight. That would be a fairly unreliable way to secure the coroplast sheeting.

[MickLittle]

I was thinking the same thing. We have used these type of fasteners in my work. The fasteners do have washers under them to help for support, but I still find it odd that they used these!

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I've never seen a Keystone with that type of fastener on the coroplast, and I've been under a bunch of them..... Those fasteners are used to fasten the flooring to the frame and, in some fifth wheels, to fasten the aluminum superstructure to the frame outriggers and upper decking, but I've never seen them used as you indicate. Come to think about it, there's no way to gauge how tight they push into the coroplast and being plastic, it has a tendency to break when squeezed too tight. That would be a fairly unreliable way to secure the coroplast sheeting.

I used power activated pins for decades. Hilti tools and pins are the best. They make sever power charges. I have used them going into wood and even steel beams. I very low charge and wide plastic washer could possibly work in this application. However, cost of a single charge and pin can be as high as $1 each which would be cost prohibitive. Additionally, a pin going into concrete or in this case steel becomes a real chore if ever needs removed. There are many different ways that makes more sense.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Interesting use of the fasteners, googled them and found this;
http://www.powers.com/pdfs/catalogs/..._powder_hi.pdf
Need to look down to pg. 12 before you read anything about Steel.
Still intrtrsting though.

hankaye

[Dave W]

Are they actually a Hilti type powder fastener or just big pop rivets with a special large binding head for Coroplast? I would think that a powder fastener would be cost prohibitive for the usual 'less cost is better' RV manufacturer plus open them up to possible legal problems by employees or maintenance facilities using them incorrectly.

[cw3jason]

My Montana has them. I was surprised they were not screws as well.

[chuckster57]

I am starting to see them more often. Since the outback is the only Keystone we carry at my present job I can't say I've seen them on Keystone trailers.

[MickLittle]

Our RV is a 2016 Carbon 347. I have never ran across this on any other RV's, and I've been under a few. Maybe it's something new Keystone is starting to use. I can see the benefit for speeding up the build process, but not for access later. Seems like it would be a chore if it had to be removed for warranty reasons!

[chuckster57]

IIRC they have what looks like a nail head making it difficult at best to start the bit. Simply faster to use my small cut off wheel.

[chuckster57]

Getting a bit off track: Lippert supplies a vast majority of components to most of the RV makers. Failure rates caused by shoddy, sloppy work by Lippert is VERY low.

Shoddy,sloppy work is once again more of an RV manufacturer assembly plant issue than the components themselves.

[Dave W]

Spent a few hours under our 5er today and pulled the forward belly cover off to do some mods. That cover is held in place as well as the rear cover with some pretty big drill point tapping screws - though it could probably use a few more. I'll have to get some as the biggest I have are #12-14 and those on our 5er are probably a full 1/4" or bigger. There are also some cross members (4!!) that are there to specifically help keep that front cover from sagging too badly.

[gearhead]

here ya go:

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...light=fastenal

I also added 2 sheet metal angle material with holes and slots from side to side to help support the chloroplast.

[Dave W]

For the back part of the 5er, I'm going to be using three MORryde X-Factor cross members for added Coroplast support. Unfortunately the way that Keystone ran the rear (galley) tank drain and the gas line, two of the three will need some modifications. Not a show stopper by any means but with the trailer 110 miles and in a CG from my home shop drill press and MIG, not easy. The unused spare hoist has two angle irons and acts as a support behind the wheels.

A note about using stainless hardware - most normal commercial grade is about as strong as a grade 2 bolt. This means that if rust binds it tight, you might just have as bad a problem as carbon steel.

I get all my specialty fasteners here: http://www.mcmaster.com/# and below is a link to stainless as well. I used weather resistant coated steel on our now gone Titanium. They are also much less expensive then Fastenal and almost always have the item in stock plus overnight delivery with no tax: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3002/=138y9jw