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07-21-2013, 08:02 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Moose Jaw,Saskatchewan
Posts: 154
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26sab cables for sewer dumps
Is anyone else having problems with the sewer dumps-hard to open and close? I think the cables are much to short and they are wound around making 180 degree turns. Seem like the valves get hard to move also-not in the valve but in the stem that comes out of the valve. Think that I might have to get longer cables and reroute them.
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07-21-2013, 12:14 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Huntley, IL
Posts: 155
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We owned a 26SAB for about 3 years. The tank controls, I believe there were 3 of them, were always stiff but seemed to work OK. The "Black Tank" was the worst of the group.
__________________
Jeff & Karen
2013 Ford F250 6.7L CC SB
2014 Cougar 333MKS
Huntley, Illinois
formerly Norton Shores, Michigan
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07-22-2013, 09:53 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 164
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Mine were mildly stiff lubed them up and they are good now.
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07-22-2013, 06:36 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lindsay Ontario
Posts: 156
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26sab
Mine are the same. Always stiff and the black tank is the worst. I'm a little hesitant to remove the belly skirting or whatever it is called to check it out. If you find a cure I would sure like to know
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07-23-2013, 06:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Moose Jaw,Saskatchewan
Posts: 154
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I have opened up some of the belly pan cover because the gray water valve was always leaking. Cable was not completely closing the valve. I think they should have longer cables on the black and gray valves. They are routed so that they have a very sharp 180 degree turn in them. The gray valve cable pushed out of the end and I have had to jb weld it back in. Think I will have to look at getting longer cables or possibly changing the valves are located if there is room to turn them around-now the cable control is facing forward and the control handle is behind them. And by the way there is no insulation at all in the underbelly!!!!
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07-24-2013, 06:33 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lindsay Ontario
Posts: 156
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dump valves
In the mean time I bought a Valterra knife valve that twisted onto my pipe. Just took off the cap and twisted on the valve put the cap back on and no more surprises when I take off the cap to dump. I gotta get around to fixing the valves once and for all
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07-25-2013, 06:29 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Moose Jaw,Saskatchewan
Posts: 154
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I did the same-that way if they do leak the last valve holds the leak. I am thinking about taking the gray and black valves apart and turning them so the cable control is towards the back of the camper and then rerouting the cables. This way they will have less twists and turns in them. The only thing that concerns me is that the control end of the valves will be a bit lower than they are now. Would this cause a problem?
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07-25-2013, 11:36 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 6
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I have this same problem. How hard is it to mess with the "underbelly covering"? The last time we were out, we went to dump and I got a big surprise because the black tank valve didn't seat right. So now I have some work to do with both the valve and the underbelly covering.
Thanks for your help.
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07-25-2013, 01:04 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Moose Jaw,Saskatchewan
Posts: 154
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I just cut a 3 sides below where the valves are-just big enough to work through and when finished used a piece of wood and some small screws and duct tape over the cut to seal it back up.
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07-25-2013, 02:15 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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I just completed repair on my black valve and had to remove the entire 3" drain pipe, 3" Y fitting and both black and grey valves as one piece to service my black valve. This meant I had to open a 2' x 1.5' section of belly.
I went to a sign shop that works with vinyl graphics. They gave me a 2.5' x 2.5' piece of black chloroplast (same material as belly). I simply placed this piece over the section I opened and attached it with self tapping screws and sealed edges with Gorilla rape. Very professional looking and now I can access valves as needed.
Steve
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07-25-2013, 06:14 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lindsay Ontario
Posts: 156
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dump valves
Would anyone have a photo to see what Im getting into when I cut into the belly pan??
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07-25-2013, 07:18 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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Sorry. I didn't take photos. I can describe. It was easier than I thought it would be to work in there. If you have the same brand valve I do, it is fairly easy to remove the cables from the valve assembly.
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07-26-2013, 09:18 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Moose Jaw,Saskatchewan
Posts: 154
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Sorry, I didn't take any pics. If I have to open it up after our next weeks camping I will be sure to take some pictures and post them.
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07-30-2013, 07:22 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 6
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I have mine still open, do you still need any pics?
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