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Old 08-16-2017, 04:54 PM   #21
twvette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcntrk View Post
can't even supply enough tension to compress the suspension on my SXS. .
Its much better to strap to arms or wheels. There is little to no movement out of them so don't really have to compress anything to get it to hold. I previously did the compression thing to something on frame and often had stuff move around ... now, my stuff does'nt budge an inch with less effort too.
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:19 PM   #22
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^^^That^^^

The tied down vehicle bounces when towed and compresses the suspension enough to override how much it was compressed with the straps and eventually works loose. Tying down the wheel or suspension arms prevents that movement. That's why those wheel nets are so effective.
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Old 08-29-2017, 12:27 PM   #23
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From towing motocross bike to Harleys or golf carts, I've tried to find ways to to take the suspension out of the picture. On the Harley Ultra, a 12-14 inch long 6x6 under the frame works good to stabilize it the floor, using 1000# straps on the forks pulling down and forward into the chocks, while using 2000# straps pulling it backwards on both the rear and front wheels. Just did over 5K miles to Sturgis / Arizona and back and it was very stable. I do use 2000# anchor shackles to connect my straps to the floor as I have had a strap pop off once hauling the golf cart.
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Old 08-30-2017, 02:07 PM   #24
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my sis is closer to 1700lbs and my straps are 21/2 wide the smaller straps loosen all the time because most of my towing is done on mountain forest roads.
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:54 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by xrated View Post
You are way over-thinking it, thinking that you need 4" trucker straps. You've got a 1500 lb machine which all of the weight is on the floor of the toy hauler. Your tie down straps don't need to be anywhere near as large as what you want to use. A good quality ratchet type tie down strap ( Ancra brand is about the best you can buy) will more than suffice for holding the side by side in place. One strap on each corner pulling down and away from the vehicle and it's rock solid. I have a set of Ancra straps that I purchased in 1973 or 1974 and although I really don't use them for tying down motorcycles much anymore, I wouldn't hesitate to use them for that if needed. And the good news is that a regular strap like the Ancra will fit into the tire down anchors in the floor with no problems.
That's pretty much what I was thinking too!
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:01 AM   #26
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Was finally was able to do another round of testing a couple other options purchased and both seem great! My hunt is over ...

The orange DC Cargo 3K will just fit and are secured. Heck even without the latch these would be really hard to have them slip off but still not hard to put on. The safety latch is much beefier than the S hook I posted earlier and don't think it will get damaged but need to test a little more to ensure. The hook pivots around much better too and lies a bit flatter if needed to all around much better. Nice quality ratchet etc too and can tell these are heavy duty. I hate to say it but my Mac straps are likely staying at home now for flat bed use.

The yellow Rhino loop straps also worked very well. These are nice and heaviest duty 1.5in with rating at 10k. I believe that rating is with it wrapped around bar and only latched to one of the end loops but I also confirmed works well attaching to both end loops for what should be even more strength. I might just use these as I use my garage as a garage so could just leave them attached and not really have anything to trip over. Might also allow me to extend under my tires if ever want to try tire nets that are normally directly under my tires.

Both available on Amazon ...

Most straps like that achieve their higher load rating being doubled, cradling the load by tying to both ends as you have pictured on bot pic and not chocked as in second pic.
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:05 AM   #27
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Ok...break out the chains and binders!! Lol!
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:23 AM   #28
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Most straps like that achieve their higher load rating being doubled, cradling the load by tying to both ends as you have pictured on bot pic and not chocked as in second pic.
That's incorrect..^^^^^ ! The WLL ( working load limit) is a straight pull type rigging. Using it in a cradle or doubled configuration will double the WLL, but that is not how it gets it's 1000 lb rating....that is always a straight pull rating.
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:31 AM   #29
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That's incorrect..^^^^^ ! The WLL ( working load limit) is a straight pull type rigging. Using it in a cradle or doubled configuration will double the WLL, but that is not how it gets it's 1000 lb rating....that is always a straight pull rating.
Ok I shouldn't have said rating, what I meant was the amount of weight it will handle or the WLL. I knew what I meant just worded it wrong.
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:27 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by BlueknightWI View Post
We just hauled our Harley Ultra Limited to Sturgis and back in our 2015 Impact 311. I use 2 3000 lb straps on the front fender/fork tubes, and two more coming off the floorboard mounts to the rear. The bike wiggles around, I'm sure, but was totally stable each time I stopped and checked on it. I agree with the rest that you may be using too much strap for your needs.

I tied to the little egg shaped metal plates with the 3/16" ring screwed into the wood floor while bikes were on Condor mounts also screwed into the wood floor on my last toy hauler hauling 2 full sized Harleys using 3K straps and never had an issue with anything coming loose or moving around in the 3 yrs I had it. I know they had some good jolts on them because I always use the full exhaust brake on my Ram with what seems like some pretty hard down shifts and turbo braking. The mounts in my new Raptor look like overkill using them for the same purpose.
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Old 09-23-2017, 05:49 PM   #31
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I appreciate all the replies to my thread. the thing is i put a 1500lb sis in my garage and spend about 75% of the time towing the hauler on unimproved forest service roads where there is a foot deep pot hole about every 3 feet so the everything is bouncing around for 30 or forty miles. so the stronger the sxs is tied down the better.
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Old 09-28-2017, 05:46 AM   #32
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Those orange ones are what I've been using on my bike since I got the hauler. Been out to Sturgis, and all over WI hauling without one issue. But yes, it would be great if they made that hole even a half inch larger.


Quote:
Originally Posted by twvette View Post
Was finally was able to do another round of testing a couple other options purchased and both seem great! My hunt is over ...

The orange DC Cargo 3K will just fit and are secured. Heck even without the latch these would be really hard to have them slip off but still not hard to put on. The safety latch is much beefier than the S hook I posted earlier and don't think it will get damaged but need to test a little more to ensure. The hook pivots around much better too and lies a bit flatter if needed to all around much better. Nice quality ratchet etc too and can tell these are heavy duty. I hate to say it but my Mac straps are likely staying at home now for flat bed use.

The yellow Rhino loop straps also worked very well. These are nice and heaviest duty 1.5in with rating at 10k. I believe that rating is with it wrapped around bar and only latched to one of the end loops but I also confirmed works well attaching to both end loops for what should be even more strength. I might just use these as I use my garage as a garage so could just leave them attached and not really have anything to trip over. Might also allow me to extend under my tires if ever want to try tire nets that are normally directly under my tires.

Both available on Amazon ...
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