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Old 01-27-2024, 01:24 PM   #1
Gary Smith
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Water heater leak after loud bang

Hi, this morning I heard a loud bang in my trailer the not way started flooding in. I turned on the bypass and stopped the leak but if it turn the bypass off, I see water leaking from the top of the tank. Any ideas would greatly help.
Thanks All,
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Old 01-27-2024, 02:12 PM   #2
sourdough
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First, welcome to the forum but sorry it's under these circumstances.

For clarification; you turned the bypass and the water stopped which is understandable. You said you see a water leak coming out of the "top" of the water heater; is it not encased in foam?

Is there a connection there? A seam? I've had a seam split but it didn't pop. What is the make, model, year etc. of the trailer? How old is the water heater? All the info you can provide will help in getting an answer vs questions like mine.
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Old 01-27-2024, 02:19 PM   #3
Gary Smith
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Water leak

It is a 2012 keystone Springdale 18' I Believe. The tank is enclosed in foam and I see the water coming from under the foam. I have checked the water connections and they aren't the cause of the leak. The bang was extremely loud and enough to wake the dead.
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Old 01-27-2024, 03:01 PM   #4
chuckster57
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Your tank failed. You can get just a new tank, but it isn't a walk in the park to replace. Might be quicker and more convenient to just replace the whole thing.
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Old 01-27-2024, 03:07 PM   #5
Gary Smith
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Hot water link

Chuckster,
That is what I thought. I don't know the makeup of the tank but it looks stainless.? Is welding the break possible?
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Old 01-27-2024, 03:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Smith View Post
Chuckster,
That is what I thought. I don't know the makeup of the tank but it looks stainless.? Is welding the break possible?
Not something I would attempt.
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Old 01-27-2024, 03:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Smith View Post
Chuckster,
That is what I thought. I don't know the makeup of the tank but it looks stainless.? Is welding the break possible?
My Suburban water heat is NOT stainless and thus has to have a sacrificial anode to collect minerals that would otherwise destroy the plan steel tank. If you open the outside water heater hatch you will find a the make/model of your water heater. That would be helpful for more precise advice.
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Old 01-27-2024, 04:03 PM   #8
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It is an Atwood 4-E or 10-E
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Old 01-27-2024, 04:20 PM   #9
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It is an Atwood 4-E or 10-E
I think Suburban became Atwood or vise versa... this is the one I have; DSI and works off gas or electric. They ain't cheap.... I buy appliances from PPL Motorhomes in Houston as they are reliable.

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...gallon_09.0079
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Old 01-27-2024, 06:09 PM   #10
sourdough
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It is probably an Atwood 6 gal. water heater. If it is oriented like all I've dealt with (horizontal) the tank has failed. It should be aluminum and is not only hard but costly to repair.....and iffy if a real pro isn't doing it. When mine failed (just started leaking from the seam split and running water under the wall) I just replaced it. It's a bit of work to separate just the tank from all the "stuff" so much easier IMO. Get the model number from it and you can get them from various RV supply/repair facilities.
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Old 01-27-2024, 06:55 PM   #11
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If considering replacing the tank in a 12 year old Atwood water heater, realize that all the additional components will still be 12 years old. The tank will run around $250 plus shipping, IF YOU CAN FIND ONE... All the supply houses I just checked are "out of stock" or "no longer available". If you can find one, it comes with a new styrofoam cover, but you will need to reuse the relief valve, electric element or thermostat/high temp switch control board, etc.

In order to replace the tank, you'll need to pretty much completely disassemble the water heater, then use new gaskets to reassemble the components.

Once you're done with that "chore" (it's more than just a task), you'll still have a 12 year old heater, but with a new tank. All the components you reused are now "messed with and could fail at any time"....

A new Atwood 6 gallon water heater with electronic ignition and electric heating capability is somewhere between $500 and 700, depending on where you shop, so do some "online comparisons" before you decide where to buy.

I couldn't imagine taking the water heater apart, attempting to weld the "aluminized tank" and then reassembling the entire thing and then expecting it to be "reliable while boondocking" or even when heading out for a 2 week vacation, half way across the state (or further). If you're from Tennessee and head to Yellowstone and the second day there, your welded tank starts leaking..... How much "loss do you suffer" compared to the $200 you saved by not just installing a new water heater ?????
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Old 01-27-2024, 10:22 PM   #12
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With a new Dometic water heater, you will get a two year warranty, but if you just replace parts, no warranty. Atwood is now Dometic. https://www.dometic.com/en-us/suppor...nty-statements
Water heater is shown under Hygiene & Sanitation.
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Old 01-28-2024, 04:19 PM   #13
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Unfortunately Atwood was acquired by Dometic and they killed off the Atwood line.

They make heaters that will fit the opening in the side of the trailer. BUT they are longer than the old Atwood heaters, and the water connections in the back are not in the same location.

Gary
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Old 01-28-2024, 04:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Unfortunately Atwood was acquired by Dometic and they killed off the Atwood line.

They make heaters that will fit the opening in the side of the trailer. BUT they are longer than the old Atwood heaters, and the water connections in the back are not in the same location.

Gary
Yup!! Just switched out an Atwood on demand for a Dometic IW6. Lots of modifications to make it work as the low point drains were right behind the old unit.
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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