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Old 08-12-2013, 06:55 AM   #1
B4Dark
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Question Water line blow-out on 2013 X-Lite 26SAB

How do you winterize ALL the water lines including the line from the fresh water tank to the pump? If you blow out the lines from the street connection then water is still in the line from the fresh water tank to the pump which acts as a check. If you disconnect the pump from that line and add the suction tube and RV antifreeze then the line from the pump to the street connection does not get antifreeze because of the check at the street connection. How is it done correctly to prevent either of these two lines from freezing?
Also, how do you winterize the no fuss flush line? I've been told there is a check in that line under the bathroom sink that will not drain. Can RV antifreeze be added somehow or will just blowing it out work?
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:40 AM   #2
Festus2
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In addition to blowing out your lines, as an extra precaution you can purchase a hand pump (from CW or similar), connect that to your city water connection and pump in the pink stuff into that section of the line between the connection and the pump. Using the same hand pump, repeat the procedure for the black tank flush. Doing this will take care of these two lines. Don't forget about your outside shower taps!

Drain your FW tank to ensure that there is no water left in it and after I have pumped the pink stuff through the system, I disconnect the FW intake line to the pump which takes care of any freezing problem in that short line.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:43 AM   #3
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We have a 2012 26sab and the way I do it is as follows.
Drain the fresh water tank, then open some taps and run the pump until no more water comes out.
Drain the hotwater heater and change the bypass valve at the back of the hot water heater.
Open the low point drains and all the taps-blow some air through the city water supply until all the water stops coming out.
Then on mine there is a bypass hose and valve at the pump-I close the low point drains and taps and pump antifreeze through the lines opening each tap one at a time, don't forget the outside shower and the toilet.
As for the black tank flush-the first year I blew it out with air. Then I heard so many stories about the backflow preventer valve under the bath room sink leaking water all over that I removed it and joined the two hoses together. I just blow some air through it and it is fine.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:19 AM   #4
B4Dark
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So, I should take the check out under the bathroom sink before I blow out the BW flush line to prevent a water mess? Also, how does the antifreeze get into the line from the FW tank to the pump and the line from the pump to the street connection with the check at the end? Should I worry about these two lines or will the low point drain take care of it?
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:50 AM   #5
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If you run the pump until it runs dry you don't have to worry about the line going to the fresh water tank. If you want to you can remove the line from the pump and blow through it-you don't want to put antifreeze in it as it will get into the tank. With the city hook up after you blow air through it there should be no problem with water in it. As for the black tank flush people were having problems with the backflow preventer leaking water out all over the floor while they were flushing the tank. This is why I decided to remove it. You can do a search on this site and you should be able to find some posts.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:53 AM   #6
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http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...flow+preventer
check out this post.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:07 AM   #7
B4Dark
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What a horror story on this BW flush plumbing design! If I understand, you have completely removed the inline check and now have a straight line to the BW tank sprayer, correct? By the way, I don't understand the purpose of having the check in the first place, do you?
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:33 AM   #8
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IF the system is functioning as it should, the check valve prevents any water, possibly contaminated water, from flowing back through the line into your hose and FW supply. This is why you should have a hose dedicated for that use and not one that you would use to hook up your RV to city water.

As you have probably already read, when starting to flush out the black tank, turn on the water slowly, gradually increasing the rate of flow. If you are going to winterize the black tank system using air, I would do the same thing. Start with a low psi, then step it up bit by bit. The check valve seems to be the weak link in the system.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #9
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More Info - I spoke with Keystone about draining the water in the street connection line. When draining the system at the low point open the highest faucet and also press the check button located in the outside connection to release the vacuum on the water in that portion of the FW line.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:46 PM   #10
BobnLee
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winterizing RV

I have winterized my 26SAB for 3yrs now actually having it to do twice a year, We do it in the fall and then take it to Florida in January and it is winterized. we still use the trailer on the way down we just dont use any water. Once in Florida we remove it an use the trailer for five or six weeks and then winterize it in Florida to bring back. There is a great video on How to winterize your Rv on you tube made by Keystone Rv. You shouldnt have any problems they take you through it step by step with videos.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:22 PM   #11
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BobnLee The video is not clear to me on the proper sequence of the winterizing steps. Would you mind listing your steps from 1 through finish?
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:37 PM   #12
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B4dark

There are numerous previous threads and posts here on the forum. You can find them and read all about winterizing ...including step-by-step instructions. Do a forum search .... Type in winterizing.
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