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Old 12-18-2018, 10:59 AM   #1
rjrelander
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Wheel Rim Suggestions

I am finally getting ready to upgrade tires. Still running on the Sterling Sport ST ST205/75R14 D tires that came on the trailer. They seem fine, low miles, even wear, no checks, good tread ... they're round ... don't have the date stamp handy but just don't have a lot of faith in them. Anyway, I was looking at moving up to Carlisle Radial Trail HD ST225/75R15 E tires.

There is plenty room in the wheel wells and the height difference won't amount to much. The current 14" rims have a 4.5" 5 bolt hole pattern so I would like to keep that constant assuming that going up one size doesn't require bigger hubs, brakes, six lugs, etc. I'm sure this has come up before but I wasn't very successful finding anything. A link to something relevant or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I guess I could just pick from the three dozen ads for wheel rims that have popped up since I started asking around ... :-)
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:19 AM   #2
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If you have Discount Tire in your area, I would give them a try. While I didn't change size, I put new tires and wheels on my TT this past summer. DT was very helpful finding what I wanted at a very fair price.
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:10 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by rjrelander View Post
I am finally getting ready to upgrade tires. Still running on the Sterling Sport ST ST205/75R14 D tires that came on the trailer. They seem fine, low miles, even wear, no checks, good tread ... they're round ... don't have the date stamp handy but just don't have a lot of faith in them. Anyway, I was looking at moving up to Carlisle Radial Trail HD ST225/75R15 E tires.

There is plenty room in the wheel wells and the height difference won't amount to much. The current 14" rims have a 4.5" 5 bolt hole pattern so I would like to keep that constant assuming that going up one size doesn't require bigger hubs, brakes, six lugs, etc. I'm sure this has come up before but I wasn't very successful finding anything. A link to something relevant or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I guess I could just pick from the three dozen ads for wheel rims that have popped up since I started asking around ... :-)
Randi,
Take a look at recstuff.com. I got some 16" wheels from them a couple of years ago and I was very pleased with their quality and service. The initial page lets you plug in your parameters and then see a selection of what is available. Good luck.

https://recstuff.com/trailer-wheels/15-inch
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Old 12-18-2018, 01:47 PM   #4
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Randi,
I will second Merlin's suggestion to get a set from RecStuff. I upgraded my stock 14's (exact same size as your originals) to the 15s (exact same size as you are looking at) and grabbed a set of 15's from RecStuff. They had good carrying capacity and the correct lug spacing. Reasonably priced too. Was able to sell my old set for a decent chunk so it didn't cost me that much to get a higher load rating, non-China bomb tire on my rig. Check some out on the link he provided and see if any suite your tastes.
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Old 12-18-2018, 02:07 PM   #5
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You are going to need to pay very close attention to wheel weight ratings, tire ratings, PSI ratings and load ratings while shopping for replacements.

As an example, Dexter 5 lug 4.5" lug spacing wheels are typically rated at 2150 lbs/80PSI. That is the weight rating for 205 75R15 LRD tires (65PSI). So, buying those wheels and installing 225 75R15 LRE tires would make the wheel your "weak link".

There are some 15" wheels available in the 5 lug 4.5" lug spacing that are rated at 2830 lbs that will support your tire choice upgrade. You can read about one such wheel here: https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-W...560545SM2.html

Also remember, the axles under your trailer will probably become the "weak link" once you upgrade wheels/tires to LRE/2830/80PSI. That's not a problem, so long as you realize and remember that like any chain, it's only as strong as the weakest link and moving that link from one place to another doesn't improve the overall strength, it just means the break will occur in a different area if you "pull too hard"... It's the same with wheels, tires, bearings, axles, springs, frame rails on a travel trailer. Upgrade the wheel/tire for safety, but realize all the rest are still "limited to OEM specs"....

ADDED: It will be somewhere between difficult and impossible to find aluminum wheels with the 5 lug/4.5" spacing that are rated at 2830 lbs. Yes, they are available, but rather than the $45 each for steel wheels, you'll be looking at closer to $200 each for aluminum with that lug/weight rated at 2830. You can find them weight rated at 2150 for less than $60, but again, why spend the money on LRE tires to install on light weight wheels?
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Old 12-18-2018, 02:25 PM   #6
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This is a photo of the OEM wheels on my Cougar. As you can see, in 5 lug drilling, the wheel is rated at 2150 and in 6 lug drilling, the wheel is rated at 2830.
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:31 PM   #7
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There are some 15" wheels available in the 5 lug 4.5" lug spacing that are rated at 2830 lbs that will support your tire choice upgrade. You can read about one such wheel here: https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-W...560545SM2.html
Thanks. I'll probably end up going with the Taskmasters since they are the only 2800# rated steel wheels with the five-hole spacing that I've found so far. They also have some nice chrome-looking (PVD) ones for (somewhat) more money. The 1750RD is a light single-axle trailer so it's just the two tires/wheels and maybe the spare. I just don't want to spend thousands completely redoing the entire underside of the thing.

Well aware of the chain of weak links though. Just by looking at it, the suspension might be the next weakest link before the axle. The 2800# Carlisle tires are really overkill. I could probably go with a little heavier D rated tire at 2150# or 2500# but those all mount on 15" rims as well. I just want a bit more under the trailer than the 2000# tires (of questionable origin) that are on there now without having to go to six-hole rims.
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:17 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rjrelander View Post
I am finally getting ready to upgrade tires. Still running on the Sterling Sport ST ST205/75R14 D tires that came on the trailer. They seem fine, low miles, even wear, no checks, good tread ... they're round ... don't have the date stamp handy but just don't have a lot of faith in them. Anyway, I was looking at moving up to Carlisle Radial Trail HD ST225/75R15 E tires.

There is plenty room in the wheel wells and the height difference won't amount to much. The current 14" rims have a 4.5" 5 bolt hole pattern so I would like to keep that constant assuming that going up one size doesn't require bigger hubs, brakes, six lugs, etc. I'm sure this has come up before but I wasn't very successful finding anything. A link to something relevant or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I guess I could just pick from the three dozen ads for wheel rims that have popped up since I started asking around ... :-)

According to the specs I'm reading about your trailer, it came with ST215/75R14 LRD tires. Those tires provide, right to the pound, the 10% in reserves RVIA has asked their participation members to provide with their OE tires.

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2017-...1750rd-tr29345
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
You are going to need to pay very close attention to wheel weight ratings, tire ratings, PSI ratings and load ratings while shopping for replacements.

As an example, Dexter 5 lug 4.5" lug spacing wheels are typically rated at 2150 lbs/80PSI. That is the weight rating for 205 75R15 LRD tires (65PSI). So, buying those wheels and installing 225 75R15 LRE tires would make the wheel your "weak link".

There are some 15" wheels available in the 5 lug 4.5" lug spacing that are rated at 2830 lbs that will support your tire choice upgrade. You can read about one such wheel here: https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-W...560545SM2.html

Also remember, the axles under your trailer will probably become the "weak link" once you upgrade wheels/tires to LRE/2830/80PSI. That's not a problem, so long as you realize and remember that like any chain, it's only as strong as the weakest link and moving that link from one place to another doesn't improve the overall strength, it just means the break will occur in a different area if you "pull too hard"... It's the same with wheels, tires, bearings, axles, springs, frame rails on a travel trailer. Upgrade the wheel/tire for safety, but realize all the rest are still "limited to OEM specs"....

ADDED: It will be somewhere between difficult and impossible to find aluminum wheels with the 5 lug/4.5" spacing that are rated at 2830 lbs. Yes, they are available, but rather than the $45 each for steel wheels, you'll be looking at closer to $200 each for aluminum with that lug/weight rated at 2830. You can find them weight rated at 2150 for less than $60, but again, why spend the money on LRE tires to install on light weight wheels?
John, while you are correct with your assessment about studying weights, the OPs trailer weighs 3225 lbs dry. The wheel being the weak link at only being able to carry 2135 lbs is not an issue on his trailer.
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:50 PM   #10
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John, while you are correct with your assessment about studying weights, the OPs trailer weighs 3225 lbs dry. The wheel being the weak link at only being able to carry 2135 lbs is not an issue on his trailer.
You are absolutely 110% correct in your statement.....

HOWEVER: if he puts tires rated at 2830 each (5660 pounds) on the "standard Dexter 15"/5 lug wheel, then the wheel will be the "weak link" of the wheel/tire assembly and the axle (probably rated at 3,000/3,200 or 3,500 pounds will become the weak link on the suspension, assuming the springs are rated higher than the axle.

The point I was making was that he needs to be careful about buying 15" wheels that might be rated at 2150 lbs and putting tires rated at 2830 lbs on them thinking that he would be significantly improving his "total capacity" over what he currently has: Tires rated at 2040 on wheels rated at 2150.

The OP, from his comments, "gets it", whether you don't completely understand what I was trying to say, well, hopefully now you will.....

BTW: His trailer GVW is 4400 pounds, so barring the tongue weight, his wheels are "barely at 10% over the minimum, which is why he is concerned with upgrading to heavier wheels AND tires. 225 75R15 LRE is probably "overkill" but either 225 75R15 LRD or LRE would both (if installed on compatible weight capacity wheels) give him significant capacity improvement and likely eliminate any tire loading issues for at least 4 years, assuming the tires are recent manufacture. My opinion: He's doing the right thing upgrading tires AND wheels to the highest available capacity (within reason) for the size he anticipates using.
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:55 PM   #11
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You are absolutely 110% correct in your statement.....

HOWEVER: if he puts tires rated at 2830 each (5660 pounds) on the "standard Dexter 15"/5 lug wheel, then the wheel will be the "weak link" of the wheel/tire assembly and the axle (probably rated at 3,000/3,200 or 3,500 pounds will become the weak link on the suspension, assuming the springs are rated higher than the axle.

The point I was making was that he needs to be careful about buying 15" wheels that might be rated at 2150 lbs and putting tires rated at 2830 lbs on them thinking that he would be significantly improving his "total capacity" over what he currently has: Tires rated at 2040 on wheels rated at 2150. And these wheels have a 2540 lbs capacity (the ones I installed on min)


The OP, from his comments, "gets it", whether you don't completely understand what I was trying to say, well, hopefully now you will.....
Thanks, I get what you are saying. I understand he wouldn't be able to put 2500 lbs on each wheel thinking they could handle it because the tires are rated for 2830 lbs when the wheel is only rated for 2150. I meant to say the tires will still have 2830 lbs capacity, so as long as he stays under the 2150 lbs on each wheel (easily doable because his GVWR is only 4400 lbs), his tires (let's face it, the most common item to fail, by FAR) will have HUGE extra reserve capacity. These wheels have 2540 lb rating (the ones I installed on mine):
https://recstuff.com/trailer-wheels/...r-wheel-black/
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:04 PM   #12
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If he wants to go with aluminum wheels (some do/some don't) then that wheel, at $75 is a good choice ($150 for two). If he wants to go with steel wheels, then the Taskmaster at $45 ($90 for two) is rated for LRE tires where the HiSpec aluminum is rated for LRD tires. Either is an excellent choice, depending on how much money and which look he chooses.

Heck, as long as he's upgrading, it's a "win".... Just replacing his existing tires, well, IMHO, not so much a gain, regardless of what brand he would have chosen.
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:22 PM   #13
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Heck, as long as he's upgrading, it's a "win".... Just replacing his existing tires, well, IMHO, not so much a gain, regardless of what brand he would have chosen.
Oh, I agree 100%. That's why I supported Merlin's suggestion for wheels. Either way he is still upgrading significantly on hi original wheels/tires. Not to mention getting rid of the china bombs.
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:14 PM   #14
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According to the specs I'm reading about your trailer, it came with ST215/75R14 LRD tires. Those tires provide, right to the pound, the 10% in reserves RVIA has asked their participation members to provide with their OE tires.

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2017-...1750rd-tr29345
Huh. Our build must have missed the 10% reserve change. We bought ours in May 2017 so it would have rolled off the line in late 2016. Anything built in the fall of 2017 would have the heavier tires per RVIA. The 205 wide tires that came on ours are 2040# and the 215 wide ones listed above are 2200#. That might be a good option to consider although I would still need a good set of 14" rims. Going from D to E would give me the extra 2 plys though and about four seasons of annual 10% load degradation. Too many decisions.

And yes, just to be clear, I know that going to 2800# tires doesn't mean that I can shove another 3/4 ton of payload in the trailer. Just looking for an extra (maybe too extra) margin of error. The problem with these little single-axle trailers is that you only have one tire between you and the pavement ...
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:30 PM   #15
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Huh. Our build must have missed the 10% reserve change. We bought ours in May 2017 so it would have rolled off the line in late 2016. Anything built in the fall of 2017 would have the heavier tires per RVIA. The 205 wide tires that came on ours are 2040# and the 215 wide ones listed above are 2200#. That might be a good option to consider although I would still need a good set of 14" rims. Going from D to E would give me the extra 2 plys though and about four seasons of annual 10% load degradation. Too many decisions.

The problem with these little single-axle trailers is that you only have one tire between you and the pavement ... :lol:

Randi, and therein lies one of the biggest reasons to upgrade to a larger tire. I don't know if you have, but I have had a wheel completely separate from the axle on a single axle trailer - not fun, and I was only on a mountain back road. I have however seen many single axle trailers with blowouts etc. on the side of the road. The loss of one wheel on a 2 wheel trailer is far more problematic, and dramatic, than the loss of a tire on a 4 wheel trailer. IMO I would go with the LRDs at the least just for that comfort zone.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:16 PM   #16
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Huh. Our build must have missed the 10% reserve change. We bought ours in May 2017 so it would have rolled off the line in late 2016. Anything built in the fall of 2017 would have the heavier tires per RVIA. The 205 wide tires that came on ours are 2040# and the 215 wide ones listed above are 2200#. That might be a good option to consider although I would still need a good set of 14" rims. Going from D to E would give me the extra 2 plys though and about four seasons of annual 10% load degradation. Too many decisions.

And yes, just to be clear, I know that going to 2800# tires doesn't mean that I can shove another 3/4 ton of payload in the trailer. Just looking for an extra (maybe too extra) margin of error. The problem with these little single-axle trailers is that you only have one tire between you and the pavement ...

Are you saying that the information in the reference I provided in my previous post has information that is different from what is on your trailer's certification label? How different? What does your trailer certification label show the trailer's GVWR and axle GAWR to actually be? According to the specs you should have a single 4000# vehicle certified axle. No amount of modifications you can do will change the amount of load that axle can carry.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:43 PM   #17
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If the OE wheels can be fitted with tires that meet the diameter, width and inflation pressure requirements of the tires fitted to them they are acceptable. The wheels cannot be physically overloaded without overloading the axle.
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:20 PM   #18
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Are you saying that the information in the reference I provided in my previous post has information that is different from what is on your trailer's certification label? How different? What does your trailer certification label show the trailer's GVWR and axle GAWR to actually be? According to the specs you should have a single 4000# vehicle certified axle. No amount of modifications you can do will change the amount of load that axle can carry.
It's possible. Our trailer is currently in storage so I don't have access to my certification label. My guess is that it's the same 4000# axle but since it was built/sold before the fall of 2017, it didn't follow the (yet to be established) 10% reserve. The 2040# tires they fitted at the time would have been a 2% reserve and a poster child for why the RVIA took action. The link to the 2017 1750RD that you provided may have been built later in 2017 or retrofitted to the 2200# tires by the dealer to meet the 10% reserve. Hard to tell.

As I said earlier, I have absolutely no intention of overloading the 4000# axle. I just need some margin other than what the factory fitted 2040# tires provided when they were stamped, probably some time in 2016. If I understand correctly, even if I had switched to RVIA recommended 2200# tires a year ago, and given up to 10% degradation per year, they would have been back down to a marginal 2000# capacity already this spring.

That was kind of why I was looking at 2800# tires in the first place, so I can get about four seasons out of them before they degrade into 2000# tires. That, and reading multiple recommendations to go from a D to an E load range when replacing tires, for margin, not increased payload. My main question was related to rim selection and the implications of going from a 14" to a 15" rim while retaining the original five-hole pattern.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:19 PM   #19
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It's possible. Our trailer is currently in storage so I don't have access to my certification label. My guess is that it's the same 4000# axle but since it was built/sold before the fall of 2017, it didn't follow the (yet to be established) 10% reserve. The 2040# tires they fitted at the time would have been a 2% reserve and a poster child for why the RVIA took action. The link to the 2017 1750RD that you provided may have been built later in 2017 or retrofitted to the 2200# tires by the dealer to meet the 10% reserve. Hard to tell.

As I said earlier, I have absolutely no intention of overloading the 4000# axle. I just need some margin other than what the factory fitted 2040# tires provided when they were stamped, probably some time in 2016. If I understand correctly, even if I had switched to RVIA recommended 2200# tires a year ago, and given up to 10% degradation per year, they would have been back down to a marginal 2000# capacity already this spring.

That was kind of why I was looking at 2800# tires in the first place, so I can get about four seasons out of them before they degrade into 2000# tires. That, and multiple recommendations elsewhere to go from a D to an E load range. My main question was related to rim selection and the implications of going from a 14" to a 15" rim while retaining the original five-hole pattern.

Well, you're right about getting more load capacity with your replacements. Probably the only way to do it properly is go to the 15" wheels. Looking at your pictures there seems to be ample room for the 15" upgrade.

It's a shame on the RV trailer industry for not providing replacement options for RV trailer tiers/wheels. Everything would be so much easier with an options list to go by.
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