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Old 06-18-2019, 07:45 AM   #1
cookinwitdiesel
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Tire shop could not get Westlakes off of rims without damaging wheels!

I got a set of Sailun S637 STs for my trailer and took them and the oem wheels with Westlakes installed to a shop to get them swapped. The shop works on commercial trucks and stuff, so no stranger to higher pressure, heavier duty tires and wheels. Apparently they spent hours on it yesterday and could not get the Westlakes off of the Lynx Aluminum rims without damaging the rims. They only took off one tire then stopped because they didn't want to tear up the whole set. I went in this morning to see what is up and talk about options.

They started out with the usual: cheap Chinese tires, low quality, blah blah blah that you would expect to hear from an American mechanics shop. Allegedly the problem is that the (cheap Chinese) rubber is too stiff on the tire bead and they could not work it around the rim - the tire was tougher than the aluminum and the rim suffered as a result. They of course claim that the American made Goodyear G614s don't have this problem.

They are remounting the one tire they removed and I will leave the Westlakes on for the time being - when I go back tonight they will present their solution to compensate me for the rim they damaged. The rim damage is purely aesthetic, nothing structurally compromised, just a bummer. Picture attached.

Has anyone else come across anything remotely resembling this problem? Are these guys just subpar? This was the shop that the local CampingWorld sent me too since their tire stuff was broken or something like that. I know a ton of people use the Sailuns happily, and had to get the Westlakes off in order to install them - I am curious to hear what others experienced.

Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:29 AM   #2
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Have not heard of that issue before....ever. Are these the load range "G" tires?
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:32 AM   #3
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Their inability to get those tires off the wheels without damaging the wheels is unsatisfactory. Go to another retailer with more experienced employees and proper equipment.

They need to be pressed off the bead, not pried off.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:46 AM   #4
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I agree with CW. That looks like someone took a tire spoon and tried to pry the tire over the rim/break the bead ala 1970. I remember the first time I bought fancy alloy aftermarket wheels sometime in the 60s. Took one in for a repair and the guy said he would only do it if I paid him for the repair PLUS the cost of a new wheel. He advised that trying to pull the tire over the rim would probably break it (they didn't have the modern equip. they do today). Looks like he may still be alive and working at your shop....

I would find another shop.
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:14 AM   #5
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Sorry to hear about your troubles.

A long...long...long time ago, I worked in a tire shop. It was so long ago (hint), guys were putting Crager S/S rims on their '65 GTOs, and 'Stangs! Te number one rule in the shop was that the "Chromes, and Fancies" always got worked from the back side.

I agree with CW. You need a tire specialist, who knows how to remove a tire without destroying either the tire, or the rim.


Good Luck,
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:36 AM   #6
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It looked like they had the right tools and while there I observed them doing other wheels/tires with what looked like the right procedure. Is why I wasn't sure if there is a known trend with the "china" tires being more difficult to work with.

Thanks all! I will collect my tires soon and try again somewhere else....
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:47 AM   #7
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If you are getting rid of the tire, no problem, cut the bead. Tire comes off. Putting on the new ones, I'm thinking like previously posted, work from the rear so as not to damage the pretty side. . I have changed tires before at an auto hobby shop. It's not hard with a little supervision for the first tire. You would think people who do this for a living would have seen this before.
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:19 AM   #8
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I agree, the bead has to be broken loose on both sides of the tire and almost every tire shop I've seen, the tire machine has a pneumatic bead breaker. Once the bead is broke on both sides, the bead of the tire is pushed down into the "well" of the rim and it comes off quite easily with a tire machine and lube. They obviously had no clue on how to do it. Hopefully it wasn't C&D tire, that would cause me to lose a lot of faith in them.
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:21 AM   #9
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The shop is Rice Tire in Manassas, VA. They did in fact have the pneumatic bead breaker, I observed them using it on other tires while waiting to talk with the manager.
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
The shop is Rice Tire in Manassas, VA. They did in fact have the pneumatic bead breaker, I observed them using it on other tires while waiting to talk with the manager.

You may have an out. It’s a slim chance but they happen.

It is prohibited to fit a tire on a wheel with an incompatible bead profile. Tire manufacturers are required to provide, to the public, a listing of wheels their tires are designed to fit, including the bead profile type. Look on your trailers certification label and find the wheel size and type. Then look on the actual wheel to confirm a bead type match. If there is not a match, ask the tire manufacturer for the bead profile for that particular tire's designated size and load range.

If you can confirm a mismatch you should inform the trailer manufacture and give them a chance to make it right. If that doesn't work, present your information to NHTSA. They will force the trailer manufacturer to make it right.

Here are some basic wheel contour letter descriptions.

Wheels will have a letter designation for their contour or the expected tire bead and rim shape. Some possible contour designations are J, JJ, K, JK, B, P, and D.

Common (and generally interchangeable) wheel contour designations are J, JJ, and JK.
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:19 PM   #11
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Given that the OEM provided tires were having difficulty coming off of the OEM provided rims, you think there is a likely case there? They use the same tires and rims across pretty much their whole line up.
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
Given that the OEM provided tires were having difficulty coming off of the OEM provided rims, you think there is a likely case there? They use the same tires and rims across pretty much their whole line up.
So I assume you have been to the GD forum and asked it others have had this issue?

The Lynx model wheel appears to be a Semec product. Lionshead Specialty Tire & Wheel seems to be the vendor of the wheel and the Westlake tires.

https://lionsheadtireandwheel.com/Lynx-Aluminum-Wheel

Give them a call.

Seems your trailer shop did not have or use a bead protector.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:06 PM   #13
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I have posted the same topic in that forum as well. The overwhelming consensus over there is also that the folks at that shop are incompetent and to go somewhere that knows what they are doing. It is not a problem with the tires.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoking View Post
So I assume you have been to the GD forum and asked it others have had this issue?

The Lynx model wheel appears to be a Semec product. Lionshead Specialty Tire & Wheel seems to be the vendor of the wheel and the Westlake tires.

https://lionsheadtireandwheel.com/Lynx-Aluminum-Wheel

Give them a call.

Seems your trailer shop did not have or use a bead protector.
How did you identify the wheel manufacturer? I have been looking at Google images to try to identify my wheels until my eyes have gone square!
Nevermind! I just re-read the OPs post and saw that he mentioned it there.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:22 PM   #15
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Grand Design has every part in their RVs catalog'd and searchable by model. In my case, I have a Lynx 16x6 Aluminum wheel with 8 on 6.5 lug spacing.

https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-W.../LHSL513B.html

Fortunately a new wheel is not terribly costly, just annoying that I am having to go through this. And the tire shop is about a 35 minute drive each way. Tomorrow will be a 3rd round trip there.....would have been cheaper to just not go and buy a spare wheel haha
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV View Post
How did you identify the wheel manufacturer? I have been looking at Google images to try to identify my wheels until my eyes have gone square!
Nevermind! I just re-read the OPs post and saw that he mentioned it there.
Actual I looked at Tredit first and then etrailer. I missed that OP said Lynx. Post a picture of your wheel. Chris
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:24 AM   #17
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I mount and dismount a lot of passenger car and light truck tires at work. The damage I see appears the be from improper use of the tire machine. Even if the bead is hard to break, there's no excuse for that damage.
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:32 AM   #18
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The tires are now at NTB for them to work on, they were of the opinion that it is perfectly doable without damaging anything.

The first shop is covering the cost of a replacement rim 100%
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:50 AM   #19
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Now you have a slightly scratched matching wheel for your spare.
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:08 AM   #20
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Yep, actually just ordered a 6th tire, will have 2 spares I think haha
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